LED Lighting

The lights come with the brackets for the full windshield.

The Cree lights look awesome on it. Is Cree the brand name? Can't seem to find them for sale anywhere. But I'm gonna call and see if the big red switch will fit. You said it has a hi/low?

Cree is a manufacturer of LED components. Rigid for example uses their LEDs in light bars as well as other light bar makers.

I have the bar mounted on top of the bar on my brush style bumper and the accessory lights in back. I may put another light bar on front. It does light up the night!! I would hate to be looking into them coming down the road!(LOL)

24 in and 2/ 4 in 12000 lumens. I can see at night. my only complaint is when I turn them off for oncoming traffic I cant see anything with just the stock head lights and I two though the stock were good until I got theses for Christmas.

Here is what I did.

http://hondasxs.com/pioneer-700-accessories-and-modifications-f48/lighting-upgrades-t979.html

My 2cnts I a have the tuff lights as well on my 4 runner, they are a good quality product and go up against the Rigid any day. Wish I would of found them before the Rigids though. They are more of a flood light but are plenty bright enough for these things. Love mine just came in handy while cleaning my game at night.

Both bars I have on the front of mine are spot beams... Way better reach, rear is a flood.

I would like to see those tuff lights in action if you wouldn't mind?

I put these on from Amazon for under $20 ea. They work great, I can hardly see the stock lights with these on. I ordered a 20 pack for less then $300 shipped. I have enough toys to use quite a few, and have some spares in case they get smashed.
I also have 2 as backup lights in the rear. I'll take some better pictures and post them soon.

I had a set of those on the back of mine, a pair of my tractor lights died so I moved them to the tractor after I found a 7" flood beam light bar cheaper than a pair of them.

Great lights super bright and the ones I had were a rugged sealed unit no seams for water to get in, definitely a great bargain.

Rigid is stupid expensive when you can spend 20mins and 5$ on a tube of black rtv silicon and seal a $75 24" Amazon light bar up. I have two bars 12" & 24" that I paid less than $125 for total and no moisture intrusion.

I don't use the headlights I only turn them on to turn the backlights on my switches on so I can tell which one is which at night.

Yep, you can save a lot of money if your willing to just put a little work into it. I enjoy taking inexpensive items I don't care about destroying and trying to make them work for my purpose. I have had a set of those lights on the Jeep for almost 2 years and on a lot of mud trails and have never had an issue with them. Compared to the OEM lights on a Jeep YJ, it's literally night and day.
I only wish I had found the aux switch panel made by Red Mountain before I drilled a few 1/2" holes to the side of that panel location for my switches... (I need to take some pics of the P4 and post them.)
Oh well, I'll just have to put some little lights in those holes and make it look like I planned it that way.
I'll be ordering that panel here very soon!

Got a 22" Genessi mounted up on top of the hood. Works better than the rigid for less than 1/2 the cost.

I bought four 18 watt pods. 2 for the front, 2 for the back, and a 32” 120 watt Honeycomb curved lightbar. All from Auxbeam. After researching, felt comfortable with buying Auxbeam and not emptying out the bank account. Pretty happy so far. I went with the 32” because it was the perfect size to mount where I did. 36” too big, 24” too small. Yes, I can still get my hood off. I had to use braces underneath. I’ve got a lot of other crap mounted for hunting and I didn’t want it on the roof because it wouldn’t fit in my toy-hauler. Let me tell you this, the 32” is very, very bright. Longer and wider beam than I thought. I have the oem Honda aux fuse panel and switchplate and it’s limited to 10amps on the heater circuit which my 32” maxed out. I overfused it because it was pulling 11amps and I wasn’t worried about 1amp. Been working fine for a while now. You can’t use a 52” 240 watt lightbar through the aux fuse panel, if it truly is 240 watt, because it will pull double the amps the stupid little fuse box is capable of. I used the oem heater cable and accessory cables for ease of plugging into the box with the right molex connections. The cables are a little pricey for what you get but it makes for a clean install. The cables come with non-lit switches. Ditched them and put in red back-lit ones. The switches I bought weren’t compatible to Honda’s wiring so I had to move wires inside the connection block in the wiring harnesses. Been told you can find the right back-lit switches, but I went with what I had. For those using over 120 watt light bars and winches, it’s a good idea to look at a dual battery setup. You can look up the thread in the forums. Just passing along my experience. I’m no pro, just another redneck engineer!