I'm surprised you had binding. I am at 13.5" with 27" bighorns (27.4") and that is measured to the frame near where the a-arms connect.
joeymt33
i4WD=imitated 4WD
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The fox shocks had TONS of droop. That is when I would get the binding. That's the reason for raising the upper shock mount several inches.
No binding of the CVs at full droop. All is well. But my early measurements were conservative for gained lift. I'm at nearly 17" to the frame in the rear! These are new shocks and springs so they will still settle out some.
Front is 12.75" settled out.
The downside to all this is... Now it's stuck in my garage. Too tall to leave! But it sure looks good!
Front is 12.75" settled out.
The downside to all this is... Now it's stuck in my garage. Too tall to leave! But it sure looks good!
swsebek
Red,White And Blue Collar Soul
Lifetime Member
The front are stock shocks and springs from a can-am commander. I detailed that earlier on in the thread.
The rear are stock shocks from the same model commander but with high lifter springs for that commander. The only modifications required were bushings and sleeves to fit for the rear shocks only.
polyurethane T bushings by size
Bushing number 2056, 4 of them. They don't come in metric, only standard. They are roughly 24mm OD but need to fit in a 23mm ID shock eye. It's a tight fit. Inside of the bushing is 14mm ID.
STEEL PRECISION TUBE 14mm OD x 300mm LONG 1mm WALL
This pipe, cut into 40mm long sections to use as a sleeve in the bushing. I cut it with a standard pipe cutter, new disc will be needed after cutting steel, oops. The pipe is 14mm OD, 12mm ID with a 1mm wall. You can source it somewhere else but it's hard to find in the US due to metric sizing.
Loose bottom knuckle bolt and remove top knuckle/a-arm bolt to gain room to access. Remove stock Honda shocks, push the stock bushings out of Can-Am shocks using a large and small socket in a bench vice. Then push the new bushing into the shock eyelet using the included grease and a bench vice. Place a socket on one end of the shock eye to push the bushing through. Then grease the 40mm long sleeve and push that into the bushing in the same manner. They will be a tight fit, push hard and use a good vice.
It will look like this when finished:
The new bushings will stretch and be approximately 40mm after being pressed into the shock eyelets so they make a hard fit into the shock mounting points. Some "persuading" with a small crow bar, hammer or screwdriver and I was able to get them into place. If need be you can always spread the mounts slightly. To bolt the knuckle back in on top you'll have to compress the shock a bit by either lowering it onto something or jacking the bottom of the knuckle up then slip the bolt through.
I am still working on bump stops or limiting straps but it's rolling and ready to go.
The rear are stock shocks from the same model commander but with high lifter springs for that commander. The only modifications required were bushings and sleeves to fit for the rear shocks only.
polyurethane T bushings by size
Bushing number 2056, 4 of them. They don't come in metric, only standard. They are roughly 24mm OD but need to fit in a 23mm ID shock eye. It's a tight fit. Inside of the bushing is 14mm ID.
STEEL PRECISION TUBE 14mm OD x 300mm LONG 1mm WALL
This pipe, cut into 40mm long sections to use as a sleeve in the bushing. I cut it with a standard pipe cutter, new disc will be needed after cutting steel, oops. The pipe is 14mm OD, 12mm ID with a 1mm wall. You can source it somewhere else but it's hard to find in the US due to metric sizing.
Loose bottom knuckle bolt and remove top knuckle/a-arm bolt to gain room to access. Remove stock Honda shocks, push the stock bushings out of Can-Am shocks using a large and small socket in a bench vice. Then push the new bushing into the shock eyelet using the included grease and a bench vice. Place a socket on one end of the shock eye to push the bushing through. Then grease the 40mm long sleeve and push that into the bushing in the same manner. They will be a tight fit, push hard and use a good vice.
It will look like this when finished:
The new bushings will stretch and be approximately 40mm after being pressed into the shock eyelets so they make a hard fit into the shock mounting points. Some "persuading" with a small crow bar, hammer or screwdriver and I was able to get them into place. If need be you can always spread the mounts slightly. To bolt the knuckle back in on top you'll have to compress the shock a bit by either lowering it onto something or jacking the bottom of the knuckle up then slip the bolt through.
I am still working on bump stops or limiting straps but it's rolling and ready to go.
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How much lift were the highlifter springs over the stock Commander springs? Wondering if it would provide a more level ride if the springs were omitted?
The highlifter springs do not provide lift... But they do because if you had a lighter spring it will sit lower. They are a heavier spring rate than the stock commander springs which are too light. I didn't even try them. The highlifter springs are the same initial rate as the pioneer. The shocks are both the same resting compressed at 1.75" of static compression. So they would lift the commander, they don't lift the pioneer over the increased height from the longer shock.
I hope that cleared it up.
Ah, gotcha. Thanks. I think I found the part numbers for the Shocks and the highlifter springs, do these look like the ones?
Can-Am Commander Front Shocks: 706200782
Can-Am Commander Rear Shocks: 706000615
Highlifter Springs Rear: Here
I'm not seeing anything for a reasonable price after shipping and stuff to get them up to Canada, so going to approach a Can-Am dealer near me, see if they get any take offs, or how much I can buy them locally for.
Can-Am Commander Front Shocks: 706200782
Can-Am Commander Rear Shocks: 706000615
Highlifter Springs Rear: Here
I'm not seeing anything for a reasonable price after shipping and stuff to get them up to Canada, so going to approach a Can-Am dealer near me, see if they get any take offs, or how much I can buy them locally for.
Yup those are the things you need. Just know when getting the shocks new they don't come with the plates to attach the springs, those come separate. Your best bet is a set of new take offs. The can am guys ditch these shocks for aftermarket often as they aren't enough dampening for their applications. For a utv like the pioneer I think they're just right. Stock pioneer leaves a lot to be desired.
I just noticed that picture makes it look like a lot of rake and the rear way too tall, it's not as bad as it looks. I'll try to get a better photo for you soon, if I can get it out of the garage!
Awesome, thanks! I've sent a request off to the 2 local Can-Am dealers to see if they have any take offs kicking around. Fingers crossed 
This photo might be a better representation. Again, the rear hasn't completely settled out. I expect the rear to maintain 3" higher than the front though. Which is about right if you're going to have passengers or a load in the back. Current measurements are 12.75" front and 16.5" rear, both measurements taken to the frame ears and preloads at the lightest. I am turning the front preload up 1 notch though as with the raised rear it has shifted more weight to the front.
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Also, check the forums and with local dealers. They can be had new for around $80 a shock, plus spring perches and springs.
I have some random parts that I'll be getting rid of after I make sure everything plays well together. 2015 dual rate stock shocks, rear stock shocks, front can am shocks with perches but without springs and rear 250 LB can am springs. Also a strongmade lift kit.
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I made some cheap, simple, polyurethane bump stops. I bought limit straps at 19" in length but that requires longer grade 8 bolts so I decided to try the bump stops first. I think they'll work just fine alt big rather crude. Polyurethane can be had relatively inexpensive on eBay. I bought 1/2" thick sheet and just cut it into blocks to fit with a saw and attached with 3" hose clamps. Although not pretty, it should work just fine.
Now I am modifying how my strongmade stick stoppers attach as the ubolts pointing down get caught, bend and wear so I got new ones and am turning them around so the nuts are up not down.
Now I am modifying how my strongmade stick stoppers attach as the ubolts pointing down get caught, bend and wear so I got new ones and am turning them around so the nuts are up not down.
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It's done! Time to try to get it out of the garage and test. But winter is finally here and isn't making it easy.
