P500 1st Ride observations and questions for P500 owners

DG Rider

DG Rider

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Been working since my last(1st) ride on the Pioneer 500, so finally getting around to a few questions and some observations.

1. Where can I get a factory service manual in PDF form? I know where to get the paper version, but I'd prefer PDF this time around. What about an owners manual? (hint: I will not pay Honda $25 for something anyone else will let you download for free)

2. Shifting:
When i got it, the thing really shifted loudly and was stubborn coming out of 1st at times (esp cold). I adjusted the clutch while hot, which greatly improved everything, but I still got an odd delayed clutch engagement at times.
I adjusted the clutch again, this time cold, and with another shifting improvement, and i thought it had also gotten rid of the engagement until i rode it last week.
Here's what happens: It shifts (you can hear the gear engage quickly), then there is like a 1/2 second delay before the clutch grabs. It grabs firmly (no slipping), just seems like its delayed a bit, BUT...it seems like this is limited to higher gears (3rd and higher), and only after the machine has sat for a few minutes.
After several shifts, it seems to find the timing again and does it about as smoothly as you could expect. It's almost like it has to calibrate itself again. Could be oil circulation thing too.

Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this. Understand that at worst, this is something most might never even notice...

It may also do this while climbing and downshifting under power (have to test some more) but this may be by design to ensure you don't stall on a hill because of a missed downshift, which could be disastrous.

This shifts themselves are really good after the cold clutch adjustment, only rarely refusing to come out of 1st under tough circumstances. I do need to work on my downshifting technique (esp while climbing).

3. Track width:
Someone has put what appears to be rear wheels with stock rear tires on the front so that all 4 are the same size. The front track looks noticeably wider than the rear, which i hate.
I have never really noticed this on stock machines, so...
a. Are stock machines wider in the front (and the narrower stock tires/wheels hide it better)?
b. I thought the stock wheels all had the same backspacing?
c. I'm assuming the front would be the 50" track.
d. What spacers would i need to make the back the same width (too lazy to measure :) )?

4. Sway bar revisited (again):
Ride sucks at times. May remove this, but this is not the most stable machine to start with. I'm not interested in high speed handling, but i AM interested in side hill stability and ride. Remove or keep?

5. Door bushing have lots of slop. And are there two rubber snubbers on the latch loops as it appears there should be? Mine has only one on each side.

6. Is this thing way over cooled? NEVER heard the rad fan come on, but has never gone over 2 bars on the temp gauge and is full of coolant. Not been over maybe 50's while using it.

7. Sips gas. Actually ended ride with more gas than i started with. Ride + burritos!

8. The amount of gray sealant on my rear diff looks possibly excessive for a factory job. And there are a few spots where it was accidentally dabbed on the side of the case. No excessive noise or anything, but i would like to know if joe schmoe or the local dealer has been into my rear diff. Anyone else?

Okay...enough questions (maybe more later).

Observations from the 1st ride:

When i 1st got it home, i tried to cross a little stream near my house. It struggled a bit more than i thought (steep bank, so no cakewalk). I started wondering if this machine was going to be a disappointment compared to my old 700 as far as "terrainability" (as Yamaha calls it), which always seemed to have amazing ability when it had the power.
Then i started to think about what i had just done. It was a muddy mess, and its been a decade since I've dealt with east coast mud. And the stock tires suck. And i had never took the 700 across this either...mainly because the 2 trees i had to go between would have ripped the fenders off a 700. Perspective.

Likewise, those 1st few miles at Wildcat were on muddy, rutted trails worn out by big, powerful machines owned by people use usually have more balls and money than sense. The machine was narrow, stiff, and seemed sketchy on some of the hills.

Then something strange happened: I got out of playgrounds and rock bouncer challenges and into actual trails, and the worm turned. THIS is what this machine was meant for, and it does it pretty good. Love the short shifting and just cruising along the trails.

Stopped and dropped the air pressure to 4/5 F/R and lowered the shocks to the softest position, and improved the ride greatly. And just got used to the machine and being on the trail for the 1st time in a while, and it all came pretty good...or better, anyway. The steering, with the wider tires up front, is a bit heavier than i would like.
I haven't gotten my winch mount, so i was very skittish with mud holes, and the size did the same on steep hills..but as the day went on i became more brave. Went into some mud holes that were deeper than i thought, but had no issue clawing through them...and likewise, hit some rutted hills and clawed right up.

It appears that with the exception of something that twists it up and shows that lack of a locker, my fears of a lack of capability were unfounded. Even surprised me. I also accidentally backed up the edge of a bank and had the machine shift over.
I grabbed the oh-s*** handle in prep for a roll, but to my surprise, it teetered on to the downhill rear, loaded the suspension, and simply stopped. Perhaps the reputation of this machine has more effect on my perception than its actual performance? There is no denying this is a much narrower machine than what I'm used to...but it's much wider than any ATV I've ever owned. And is its center of gravity that much higher than an ATV? I think experience will show this much more capable than i have given it credit for.

I should also note that i only scraped the skids a few times, so it has better ground clearance than it seems, helped by those small dimensions...

And...never once did i think "i wish this had more power" in my admittedly casual riding style.

3rd/4th gears in casual trails? High altitude 700 owners would kill for this gearing!

So in the end...
On the type of terrain it was meant for, it was quite enjoyable, and with a little seat time i think it will be workable elsewhere as well. Do bigger machines work better in some places? Oh yeah, but everyone here probably knows that. But on those tiny little 2 tracks (or, 50" trails) like i grew up learning to ride on, the thing is a hoot.

Now if Honda would give it a bed and a locker...
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

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For a PDF copy of the OEM Honda service manual, I bought mine here for $12.50. Well worth the price:

http://repairitmanuals.com/honda-side-x-side-manuals.htm

Post some pics of your ride and any of the questionable places it might have gotten repaired so we can take a look...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks a ton!

Pics of the machine on a ride are here Back In the Saddle

No pics of the diff...and i already pulled the excess sealer off. It's not all that bad and may be factory. Just thought the dabs left on the side were un Honda like...
 
rocmar

rocmar

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Been working since my last(1st) ride on the Pioneer 500, so finally getting around to a few questions and some observations.

1. Where can I get a factory service manual in PDF form? I know where to get the paper version, but I'd prefer PDF this time around. What about an owners manual? (hint: I will not pay Honda $25 for something anyone else will let you download for free)

2. Shifting:
When i got it, the thing really shifted loudly and was stubborn coming out of 1st at times (esp cold). I adjusted the clutch while hot, which greatly improved everything, but I still got an odd delayed clutch engagement at times.
I adjusted the clutch again, this time cold, and with another shifting improvement, and i thought it had also gotten rid of the engagement until i rode it last week.
Here's what happens: It shifts (you can hear the gear engage quickly), then there is like a 1/2 second delay before the clutch grabs. It grabs firmly (no slipping), just seems like its delayed a bit, BUT...it seems like this is limited to higher gears (3rd and higher), and only after the machine has sat for a few minutes.
After several shifts, it seems to find the timing again and does it about as smoothly as you could expect. It's almost like it has to calibrate itself again. Could be oil circulation thing too.

Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this. Understand that at worst, this is something most might never even notice...

It may also do this while climbing and downshifting under power (have to test some more) but this may be by design to ensure you don't stall on a hill because of a missed downshift, which could be disastrous.

This shifts themselves are really good after the cold clutch adjustment, only rarely refusing to come out of 1st under tough circumstances. I do need to work on my downshifting technique (esp while climbing).

3. Track width:
Someone has put what appears to be rear wheels with stock rear tires on the front so that all 4 are the same size. The front track looks noticeably wider than the rear, which i hate.
I have never really noticed this on stock machines, so...
a. Are stock machines wider in the front (and the narrower stock tires/wheels hide it better)?
b. I thought the stock wheels all had the same backspacing?
c. I'm assuming the front would be the 50" track.
d. What spacers would i need to make the back the same width (too lazy to measure :) )?

4. Sway bar revisited (again):
Ride sucks at times. May remove this, but this is not the most stable machine to start with. I'm not interested in high speed handling, but i AM interested in side hill stability and ride. Remove or keep?

5. Door bushing have lots of slop. And are there two rubber snubbers on the latch loops as it appears there should be? Mine has only one on each side.

6. Is this thing way over cooled? NEVER heard the rad fan come on, but has never gone over 2 bars on the temp gauge and is full of coolant. Not been over maybe 50's while using it.

7. Sips gas. Actually ended ride with more gas than i started with. Ride + burritos!

8. The amount of gray sealant on my rear diff looks possibly excessive for a factory job. And there are a few spots where it was accidentally dabbed on the side of the case. No excessive noise or anything, but i would like to know if joe schmoe or the local dealer has been into my rear diff. Anyone else?

Okay...enough questions (maybe more later).

Observations from the 1st ride:

When i 1st got it home, i tried to cross a little stream near my house. It struggled a bit more than i thought (steep bank, so no cakewalk). I started wondering if this machine was going to be a disappointment compared to my old 700 as far as "terrainability" (as Yamaha calls it), which always seemed to have amazing ability when it had the power.
Then i started to think about what i had just done. It was a muddy mess, and its been a decade since I've dealt with east coast mud. And the stock tires suck. And i had never took the 700 across this either...mainly because the 2 trees i had to go between would have ripped the fenders off a 700. Perspective.

Likewise, those 1st few miles at Wildcat were on muddy, rutted trails worn out by big, powerful machines owned by people use usually have more balls and money than sense. The machine was narrow, stiff, and seemed sketchy on some of the hills.

Then something strange happened: I got out of playgrounds and rock bouncer challenges and into actual trails, and the worm turned. THIS is what this machine was meant for, and it does it pretty good. Love the short shifting and just cruising along the trails.

Stopped and dropped the air pressure to 4/5 F/R and lowered the shocks to the softest position, and improved the ride greatly. And just got used to the machine and being on the trail for the 1st time in a while, and it all came pretty good...or better, anyway. The steering, with the wider tires up front, is a bit heavier than i would like.
I haven't gotten my winch mount, so i was very skittish with mud holes, and the size did the same on steep hills..but as the day went on i became more brave. Went into some mud holes that were deeper than i thought, but had no issue clawing through them...and likewise, hit some rutted hills and clawed right up.

It appears that with the exception of something that twists it up and shows that lack of a locker, my fears of a lack of capability were unfounded. Even surprised me. I also accidentally backed up the edge of a bank and had the machine shift over.
I grabbed the oh-s*** handle in prep for a roll, but to my surprise, it teetered on to the downhill rear, loaded the suspension, and simply stopped. Perhaps the reputation of this machine has more effect on my perception than its actual performance? There is no denying this is a much narrower machine than what I'm used to...but it's much wider than any ATV I've ever owned. And is its center of gravity that much higher than an ATV? I think experience will show this much more capable than i have given it credit for.

I should also note that i only scraped the skids a few times, so it has better ground clearance than it seems, helped by those small dimensions...

And...never once did i think "i wish this had more power" in my admittedly casual riding style.

3rd/4th gears in casual trails? High altitude 700 owners would kill for this gearing!

So in the end...
On the type of terrain it was meant for, it was quite enjoyable, and with a little seat time i think it will be workable elsewhere as well. Do bigger machines work better in some places? Oh yeah, but everyone here probably knows that. But on those tiny little 2 tracks (or, 50" trails) like i grew up learning to ride on, the thing is a hoot.

Now if Honda would give it a bed and a locker...

Locker......That's a
...big...NOT
....For 4 yrs...
from Honda
 
906UP

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Been working since my last(1st) ride on the Pioneer 500, so finally getting around to a few questions and some observations.

2. Shifting:

3. Track width:

4. Sway bar revisited (again):

5. Door bushing have lots of slop. And are there two rubber snubbers on the latch loops as it appears there should be? Mine has only one on each side.

6. Is this thing way over cooled? NEVER heard the rad fan come on, but has never gone over 2 bars on the temp gauge and is full of coolant. Not been over maybe 50's while using it.

7. Sips gas. Actually ended ride with more gas than i started with. Ride + burritos!

8. The amount of gray sealant on my rear diff looks possibly excessive for a factory job. And there are a few spots where it was accidentally dabbed on the side of the case. No excessive noise or anything, but i would like to know if joe schmoe or the local dealer has been into my rear diff. Anyone else?

#2, I had to adjust mine a few times to find the sweet spot. Seems to shift better after it's warmed up.

#3, the backspacing is different on the front/back wheels, I believe it's a 1" difference(someone correct me if that's wrong)....so if you use wheels with the same backspacing on all 4 the front is 2" wider. I did this on mine but did not notice any ill effects in handling.

#4, it is best to test this for your riding before completely removing. Simply disconnect one of the swaybar links and zip tie it out of the way. I rode mine like this for several months before removing completely.

#5, I'm not at home so I can't go look but I'm pretty sure my bike only has one rubber bumper. I "adjusted"(bent) the latches on the door so they closed a little tighter and didn't rattle.

#6, they do run cool, at the temp you mentioned I'm not surprised. I rarely see anything over 2 bars unless it's quite warm out....above 70f & I'm running hard.

#7, it's a small engine....475cc. Until you're running it hard....wide open for long runs they don't use much fuel

#8, my rear diff has quite a bit of sealant on it as well, I bought it new so it hasn't been opened, came from the factory this way
 
rocmar

rocmar

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Rode..Colorado. .steep trails
...all day..
never shifting out...of 2nd
gear..
The Stomper...guzzled
...fuel...56 miles..
Tank was empty...
Fuel assumption. ..depends
on riding style...& terrain
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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#2, I had to adjust mine a few times to find the sweet spot. Seems to shift better after it's warmed up.

#3, the backspacing is different on the front/back wheels, I believe it's a 1" difference(someone correct me if that's wrong)....so if you use wheels with the same backspacing on all 4 the front is 2" wider. I did this on mine but did not notice any ill effects in handling.

#4, it is best to test this for your riding before completely removing. Simply disconnect one of the swaybar links and zip tie it out of the way. I rode mine like this for several months before removing completely.

#5, I'm not at home so I can't go look but I'm pretty sure my bike only has one rubber bumper. I "adjusted"(bent) the latches on the door so they closed a little tighter and didn't rattle.

#6, they do run cool, at the temp you mentioned I'm not surprised. I rarely see anything over 2 bars unless it's quite warm out....above 70f & I'm running hard.

#7, it's a small engine....475cc. Until you're running it hard....wide open for long runs they don't use much fuel

#8, my rear diff has quite a bit of sealant on it as well, I bought it new so it hasn't been opened, came from the factory this way
#2 Thanks. The shifting itself is really good. Just wondering about that clutch thing and if its normal.

#3 Hmmm...i have been misinformed. So its prob going to get spacers on the rear at some point.

#5,6,8...good to know.
Thanks for the replies


Rode..Colorado. .steep trails
...all day..
never shifting out...of 2nd
gear..
The Stomper...guzzled
...fuel...56 miles..
Tank was empty...
Fuel assumption. ..depends
on riding style...& terrain

I remember you posting about that. For sure it makes a difference.
My riding style tends to get better mileage anyway.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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RE #5:
Google had the answer...

15 Pioneer500 DoorLatch oper medium
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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Can someone confirm that the stock F/R wheels have different offsets and what they are? I'd like to add spacers to make them even.
 
lee

lee

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The stock wheels have different offsets but only 5mm different.
Front = 45mm offset
Rear = 50mm offset

Also the P500 uses the same wheels as the P700 according to the parts phish.

note: offset is the distance from the center of the wheel to the hub mounting face.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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The stock wheels have different offsets but only 5mm different.
Front = 45mm offset
Rear = 50mm offset

Also the P500 uses the same wheels as the P700 according to the parts phish.

note: offset is the distance from the center of the wheel to the hub mounting face.
OK.

So does the FSM give track widths by chance (obviously, one is 50", but could the rear be less)? My machine looks to be 1...maybe 2 inches wider on each side in the front. The wheels all Look to be OEM rears and measure out to the same backspacing. No spacers installed ( I checked). I don't notice this on the stock machines, but maybe the narrower fronts "hide" it better.

Guess I'm going to have to figure out a way no measure without a straight edge...
 
NPN

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Been working since my last(1st) ride on the Pioneer 500, so finally getting around to a few questions and some observations.

1. Where can I get a factory service manual in PDF form? I know where to get the paper version, but I'd prefer PDF this time around. What about an owners manual? (hint: I will not pay Honda $25 for something anyone else will let you download for free)

2. Shifting:
When i got it, the thing really shifted loudly and was stubborn coming out of 1st at times (esp cold). I adjusted the clutch while hot, which greatly improved everything, but I still got an odd delayed clutch engagement at times.
I adjusted the clutch again, this time cold, and with another shifting improvement, and i thought it had also gotten rid of the engagement until i rode it last week.
Here's what happens: It shifts (you can hear the gear engage quickly), then there is like a 1/2 second delay before the clutch grabs. It grabs firmly (no slipping), just seems like its delayed a bit, BUT...it seems like this is limited to higher gears (3rd and higher), and only after the machine has sat for a few minutes.
After several shifts, it seems to find the timing again and does it about as smoothly as you could expect. It's almost like it has to calibrate itself again. Could be oil circulation thing too.

Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this. Understand that at worst, this is something most might never even notice...

It may also do this while climbing and downshifting under power (have to test some more) but this may be by design to ensure you don't stall on a hill because of a missed downshift, which could be disastrous.

This shifts themselves are really good after the cold clutch adjustment, only rarely refusing to come out of 1st under tough circumstances. I do need to work on my downshifting technique (esp while climbing).

3. Track width:
Someone has put what appears to be rear wheels with stock rear tires on the front so that all 4 are the same size. The front track looks noticeably wider than the rear, which i hate.
I have never really noticed this on stock machines, so...
a. Are stock machines wider in the front (and the narrower stock tires/wheels hide it better)?
b. I thought the stock wheels all had the same backspacing?
c. I'm assuming the front would be the 50" track.
d. What spacers would i need to make the back the same width (too lazy to measure :) )?

4. Sway bar revisited (again):
Ride sucks at times. May remove this, but this is not the most stable machine to start with. I'm not interested in high speed handling, but i AM interested in side hill stability and ride. Remove or keep?

5. Door bushing have lots of slop. And are there two rubber snubbers on the latch loops as it appears there should be? Mine has only one on each side.

6. Is this thing way over cooled? NEVER heard the rad fan come on, but has never gone over 2 bars on the temp gauge and is full of coolant. Not been over maybe 50's while using it.

7. Sips gas. Actually ended ride with more gas than i started with. Ride + burritos!

8. The amount of gray sealant on my rear diff looks possibly excessive for a factory job. And there are a few spots where it was accidentally dabbed on the side of the case. No excessive noise or anything, but i would like to know if joe schmoe or the local dealer has been into my rear diff. Anyone else?

Okay...enough questions (maybe more later).

Observations from the 1st ride:

When i 1st got it home, i tried to cross a little stream near my house. It struggled a bit more than i thought (steep bank, so no cakewalk). I started wondering if this machine was going to be a disappointment compared to my old 700 as far as "terrainability" (as Yamaha calls it), which always seemed to have amazing ability when it had the power.
Then i started to think about what i had just done. It was a muddy mess, and its been a decade since I've dealt with east coast mud. And the stock tires suck. And i had never took the 700 across this either...mainly because the 2 trees i had to go between would have ripped the fenders off a 700. Perspective.

Likewise, those 1st few miles at Wildcat were on muddy, rutted trails worn out by big, powerful machines owned by people use usually have more balls and money than sense. The machine was narrow, stiff, and seemed sketchy on some of the hills.

Then something strange happened: I got out of playgrounds and rock bouncer challenges and into actual trails, and the worm turned. THIS is what this machine was meant for, and it does it pretty good. Love the short shifting and just cruising along the trails.

Stopped and dropped the air pressure to 4/5 F/R and lowered the shocks to the softest position, and improved the ride greatly. And just got used to the machine and being on the trail for the 1st time in a while, and it all came pretty good...or better, anyway. The steering, with the wider tires up front, is a bit heavier than i would like.
I haven't gotten my winch mount, so i was very skittish with mud holes, and the size did the same on steep hills..but as the day went on i became more brave. Went into some mud holes that were deeper than i thought, but had no issue clawing through them...and likewise, hit some rutted hills and clawed right up.

It appears that with the exception of something that twists it up and shows that lack of a locker, my fears of a lack of capability were unfounded. Even surprised me. I also accidentally backed up the edge of a bank and had the machine shift over.
I grabbed the oh-s*** handle in prep for a roll, but to my surprise, it teetered on to the downhill rear, loaded the suspension, and simply stopped. Perhaps the reputation of this machine has more effect on my perception than its actual performance? There is no denying this is a much narrower machine than what I'm used to...but it's much wider than any ATV I've ever owned. And is its center of gravity that much higher than an ATV? I think experience will show this much more capable than i have given it credit for.

I should also note that i only scraped the skids a few times, so it has better ground clearance than it seems, helped by those small dimensions...

And...never once did i think "i wish this had more power" in my admittedly casual riding style.

3rd/4th gears in casual trails? High altitude 700 owners would kill for this gearing!

So in the end...
On the type of terrain it was meant for, it was quite enjoyable, and with a little seat time i think it will be workable elsewhere as well. Do bigger machines work better in some places? Oh yeah, but everyone here probably knows that. But on those tiny little 2 tracks (or, 50" trails) like i grew up learning to ride on, the thing is a hoot.

Now if Honda would give it a bed and a locker...
Good post, a little longer than my church sermon’s. It will grow on you once you realize you can’t take it back. I had an initial stage of “buyer’s remorse” because I was so assuming it would be as quiet as my Foreman with the same engine. It is a noisey little beggar and i wish it had the “cone of silence” built in (now my age is showing) so two people could talk and drive. I’ve got about 700km on mine and it is a bit quieter. Changing the rear diff oil to 75w140 synthetic really shut that little monster up but exhaust noise is pretty extreme. It’s tuff, fun and likely to follow the longevity of my Honda 350 fourtrax.
 
DG Rider

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Good post, a little longer than my church sermon’s. It will grow on you once you realize you can’t take it back. I had an initial stage of “buyer’s remorse” because I was so assuming it would be as quiet as my Foreman with the same engine. It is a noisey little beggar and i wish it had the “cone of silence” built in (now my age is showing) so two people could talk and drive. I’ve got about 700km on mine and it is a bit quieter. Changing the rear diff oil to 75w140 synthetic really shut that little monster up but exhaust noise is pretty extreme. It’s tuff, fun and likely to follow the longevity of my Honda 350 fourtrax.
Well...i wouldn't say it didn't like it or had remorse. It's just different. And i wish the sermons at my church were shorter than this as a kid...

Funny you should mention noise: I had intentions of talking about this in my 1st sermon...but i actually found the 500 to be much quieter than the reports i had heard. Quieter than a 700. I think the 4-seat 700's rear roof really hurts it from a noise standpoint, reflecting all that sound. But no...no SxS with a roof will ever be as quiet as a quad.

RE: Widths F/R. I guess it was an illusion. Measuring front and rear, i got 50" front. and approx 49" rear. Strange.
 
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U

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Well...i wouldn't say it didn't like it or had remorse. It's just different. And i wish the sermons at my church were shorter than this as a kid...

Funny you should mention noise: I had intentions of talking about this in my 1st sermon...but i actually found the 500 to be much quieter than the reports i had heard. Quieter than a 700. I think the 4-seat 700's rear roof really hurts it from a noise standpoint, reflecting all that sound. But no...no SxS with a roof will ever be as quiet as a quad.

RE: Widths F/R. I guess it was an illusion. Measuring front and rear, i got 50" front. and approx 49" rear. Strange.

the stock front tire width is 8"...and the back 10".........if I were to go to 27" tall tires, and keep them on the stock rims, the smallest I have seen is 9" wide on front, and 11" wide on back..........if I understand correctly...my width of tires from outside edge to outside edge would increase by 1"....is that correct?.....would I still be able to ride 50" trails? thanks
 
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  1. 700-2
the stock front tire width is 8"...and the back 10".........if I were to go to 27" tall tires, and keep them on the stock rims, the smallest I have seen is 9" wide on front, and 11" wide on back..........if I understand correctly...my width of tires from outside edge to outside edge would increase by 1"....is that correct?.....would I still be able to ride 50" trails? thanks
In theory it would be 1", but different tire MFGs usually vary as to how true they are to size. The only way to be sure is to measure. Air pressure can also skew this one way or the other.

It's my understanding that most 50" trail gates are actually 52" or better, so I don't think that would be an issue. Would a forest service guy actually measure you and give you a ticket for being 51"? I doubt it. Keep in mind that the newer 50" RZR's actually measure out to 51" or so off the showroom floor.
 
Twangin

Twangin

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2018
131
275
63
NC
Ownership

  1. 500
Been working since my last(1st) ride on the Pioneer 500, so finally getting around to a few questions and some observations.

1. Where can I get a factory service manual in PDF form? I know where to get the paper version, but I'd prefer PDF this time around. What about an owners manual? (hint: I will not pay Honda $25 for something anyone else will let you download for free)

2. Shifting:
When i got it, the thing really shifted loudly and was stubborn coming out of 1st at times (esp cold). I adjusted the clutch while hot, which greatly improved everything, but I still got an odd delayed clutch engagement at times.
I adjusted the clutch again, this time cold, and with another shifting improvement, and i thought it had also gotten rid of the engagement until i rode it last week.
Here's what happens: It shifts (you can hear the gear engage quickly), then there is like a 1/2 second delay before the clutch grabs. It grabs firmly (no slipping), just seems like its delayed a bit, BUT...it seems like this is limited to higher gears (3rd and higher), and only after the machine has sat for a few minutes.
After several shifts, it seems to find the timing again and does it about as smoothly as you could expect. It's almost like it has to calibrate itself again. Could be oil circulation thing too.

Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this. Understand that at worst, this is something most might never even notice...

It may also do this while climbing and downshifting under power (have to test some more) but this may be by design to ensure you don't stall on a hill because of a missed downshift, which could be disastrous.

This shifts themselves are really good after the cold clutch adjustment, only rarely refusing to come out of 1st under tough circumstances. I do need to work on my downshifting technique (esp while climbing).

3. Track width:
Someone has put what appears to be rear wheels with stock rear tires on the front so that all 4 are the same size. The front track looks noticeably wider than the rear, which i hate.
I have never really noticed this on stock machines, so...
a. Are stock machines wider in the front (and the narrower stock tires/wheels hide it better)?
b. I thought the stock wheels all had the same backspacing?
c. I'm assuming the front would be the 50" track.
d. What spacers would i need to make the back the same width (too lazy to measure :) )?

4. Sway bar revisited (again):
Ride sucks at times. May remove this, but this is not the most stable machine to start with. I'm not interested in high speed handling, but i AM interested in side hill stability and ride. Remove or keep?

5. Door bushing have lots of slop. And are there two rubber snubbers on the latch loops as it appears there should be? Mine has only one on each side.

6. Is this thing way over cooled? NEVER heard the rad fan come on, but has never gone over 2 bars on the temp gauge and is full of coolant. Not been over maybe 50's while using it.

7. Sips gas. Actually ended ride with more gas than i started with. Ride + burritos!

8. The amount of gray sealant on my rear diff looks possibly excessive for a factory job. And there are a few spots where it was accidentally dabbed on the side of the case. No excessive noise or anything, but i would like to know if joe schmoe or the local dealer has been into my rear diff. Anyone else?

Okay...enough questions (maybe more later).

Observations from the 1st ride:

When i 1st got it home, i tried to cross a little stream near my house. It struggled a bit more than i thought (steep bank, so no cakewalk). I started wondering if this machine was going to be a disappointment compared to my old 700 as far as "terrainability" (as Yamaha calls it), which always seemed to have amazing ability when it had the power.
Then i started to think about what i had just done. It was a muddy mess, and its been a decade since I've dealt with east coast mud. And the stock tires suck. And i had never took the 700 across this either...mainly because the 2 trees i had to go between would have ripped the fenders off a 700. Perspective.

Likewise, those 1st few miles at Wildcat were on muddy, rutted trails worn out by big, powerful machines owned by people use usually have more balls and money than sense. The machine was narrow, stiff, and seemed sketchy on some of the hills.

Then something strange happened: I got out of playgrounds and rock bouncer challenges and into actual trails, and the worm turned. THIS is what this machine was meant for, and it does it pretty good. Love the short shifting and just cruising along the trails.

Stopped and dropped the air pressure to 4/5 F/R and lowered the shocks to the softest position, and improved the ride greatly. And just got used to the machine and being on the trail for the 1st time in a while, and it all came pretty good...or better, anyway. The steering, with the wider tires up front, is a bit heavier than i would like.
I haven't gotten my winch mount, so i was very skittish with mud holes, and the size did the same on steep hills..but as the day went on i became more brave. Went into some mud holes that were deeper than i thought, but had no issue clawing through them...and likewise, hit some rutted hills and clawed right up.

It appears that with the exception of something that twists it up and shows that lack of a locker, my fears of a lack of capability were unfounded. Even surprised me. I also accidentally backed up the edge of a bank and had the machine shift over.
I grabbed the oh-s*** handle in prep for a roll, but to my surprise, it teetered on to the downhill rear, loaded the suspension, and simply stopped. Perhaps the reputation of this machine has more effect on my perception than its actual performance? There is no denying this is a much narrower machine than what I'm used to...but it's much wider than any ATV I've ever owned. And is its center of gravity that much higher than an ATV? I think experience will show this much more capable than i have given it credit for.

I should also note that i only scraped the skids a few times, so it has better ground clearance than it seems, helped by those small dimensions...

And...never once did i think "i wish this had more power" in my admittedly casual riding style.

3rd/4th gears in casual trails? High altitude 700 owners would kill for this gearing!

So in the end...
On the type of terrain it was meant for, it was quite enjoyable, and with a little seat time i think it will be workable elsewhere as well. Do bigger machines work better in some places? Oh yeah, but everyone here probably knows that. But on those tiny little 2 tracks (or, 50" trails) like i grew up learning to ride on, the thing is a hoot.

Now if Honda would give it a bed and a locker...

Care to give some info on adjusting the shocks?
- pics to help with how it’s done?
- how much of an improvement would you say it provided for slow trail riding, say around 10-15 mph?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

Member: Triple Clutch Club
Lifetime Member
Aug 14, 2013
9,199
41,635
113
Casa Grande, AZ
Ownership

  1. 700-2
Care to give some info on adjusting the shocks?
- pics to help with how it’s done?
- how much of an improvement would you say it provided for slow trail riding, say around 10-15 mph?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The rear shocks have a stepped preload adjuster thats meant to help compensate for changing weight demands (newer models have them front and rear). They come on the second from full soft (IE-not the softest). The Pioneer is pretty stiffly sprung, so if you're riding with a light load, you don't really need the extra preload to keep the suspension from squatting.

Varing observations/expectations about "ride" mean its always impossible to say something will work for everyone, so its something you'll have to try for yourself and see what you think. It seems to help, but then again, i did tire air pressure as well.

I already had a spanner wrench and i don't think Honda gives you one in the tool kit like they used to, so you may have to buy that, but they are cheap. In my experience, going down on the preloads can be done on the trail, but going up always seems to require jacking the machine up in the air. There are wrenches that attach to ratchets/breaker bars, so it may be possible with them, but you have to be careful because the wrench will slip off easily.

I don not have pics (maybe later). This video shows the concept (you can skip to the meat at 2:09) except the preload collar is at the bottom on a Pioneer, and once you look at your shocks it should be obvious...

 
TeamCheap

TeamCheap

Well-Known Member
Mar 10, 2018
243
454
63
southeast michigan
Ownership

  1. 500

  2. Other Brand
In theory it would be 1", but different tire MFGs usually vary as to how true they are to size. The only way to be sure is to measure. Air pressure can also skew this one way or the other.

It's my understanding that most 50" trail gates are actually 52" or better, so I don't think that would be an issue. Would a forest service guy actually measure you and give you a ticket for being 51"? I doubt it. Keep in mind that the newer 50" RZR's actually measure out to 51" or so off the showroom floor.
I've heard that the michigan DNR has a device to measure ORV's that if you touch it twice as you pass through your to wide and are planning to enforce widths even more this year.
I've never seen this device but then I've been off trail for 2 years, our little P5 "ERV" is my ticket to ride.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

Member: Triple Clutch Club
Lifetime Member
Aug 14, 2013
9,199
41,635
113
Casa Grande, AZ
Ownership

  1. 700-2
I've heard that the michigan DNR has a device to measure ORV's that if you touch it twice as you pass through your to wide and are planning to enforce widths even more this year.
I've never seen this device but then I've been off trail for 2 years, our little P5 "ERV" is my ticket to ride.
That sucks. Wonder if the 51" 50" RZR's will be ticketed?
I'm sure money has nothing to do with it...( :rolleyes: )...but i find it interesting that they are enforcing it more when the trend seems to be opening them up for most places.
 
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