P1000 '21 P-1000 SE thoughts pluses and minuses

bumperm

bumperm

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I purchased the SE model over the less expensive models as I thought the "extras" were worth it. This thread is mostly for SE owners to discuss the ups and downs specific to this version. The pro's are obvious, and I would still have bought the SE knowing what I know now having owned it for a month. So I'm going to focus on the takeaways.

The front LED bar has a quite narrow beam suited for driving on a long straight stretch - 'cause there's not much peripheral or flood illumination. I'll be adding a 54" light bar.

The under hood area is more crowded than the SE's underling models, so one needs to be creative in adding things. They place the accessory fuse/relay box over the right side well that many use for an aux battery (I relocated that fuse box on mine).

This picture is after adding a bunch of stuff . . . I think I'm almost done.

20210725 154202


The 4,500 lb winch has a steel rope, which is fine, though some prefer synthetic rope (I will leave that for now, maybe putting a synthetic rope on later). The only control for the winch is a wired remote that plugs into an outlet inside the glove compartment. The remote works regardless of key switch position and has enough wire length that you can get out front to tend the rope. I added a wireless receiver Amazon.com: LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for Jeep Truck ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset Waterproof: Electronics
that was easy enough to wire to the external (i.e. under the hood) relay contactor - piece of cake and works well. Some have reported intermittent running of the winch with this wireless control, probably due to RFI, so I took the precaution of wiring in a panel switch for power to the receiver, problem solved.

The added (Edit to add "by Honda") accessory fuse box has outputs for heater, wiper and the existing light bar. Not sure how many will be adding a heater, and adding a wiper will trash the polycarbonate included windshield in short order. Those outputs are wired to plugs behind the cubby behind the existing switch panel, so can repurposed. The single actual switch on that panel is for the front light bar. It's not illuminated - some may prefer that, but it requires a bit of feeling to find it in the dark.

The next two "gripes" no doubt apply to all the '21 models. Fasteners, screws and bolts, are way tighter than they need to be, and some of the 5mm hex drive heads are slightly damaged (as if the impact driver was still turning when yanked out of the bolt's hex). To insure a hex bit will seat properly, all the way in, tap it in with a hammer until you hear/feel it go solid. Failure to do that will often result in a stripped out hex indent on the bolt.

Shift cables may not be adjusted optimally. I had to tweak the 2WD to Turf adjustment cables to get it to shift properly.

All that said, I like the machine and would buy it again.
 
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GROR

GROR

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I purchased the SE model over the less expensive models as I thought the "extras" were worth it. This thread is mostly for SE owners to discuss the ups and downs specific to this version. The pro's are obvious, and I would still have bought the SE knowing what I know now having owned it for a month. So I'm going to focus on the takeaways.

The front LED bar has a quite narrow beam suited for driving on a long straight stretch - 'cause there's not much peripheral or flood illumination. I'll be adding a 54" light bar.

The under hood area is more crowded than the SE's underling models, so one needs to be creative in adding things. They place the accessory fuse/relay box over the right side well that many use for an aux battery (I relocated that fuse box on mine).

This picture is after adding a bunch of stuff . . . I think I'm almost done.

View attachment 286098

The 4,500 lb winch has a steel rope, which is fine, though some prefer synthetic rope (I will leave that for now, maybe putting a synthetic rope on later). The only control for the winch is a wired remote that plugs into an outlet inside the glove compartment. The remote works regardless of key switch position and has enough wire length that you can get out front to tend the rope. I added a wireless receiver Amazon.com: LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for Jeep Truck ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset Waterproof: Electronics
that was easy enough to wire to the external (i.e. under the hood) relay contactor - piece of cake and works well. Some have reported intermittent running of the winch with this wireless control, probably due to RFI, so I took the precaution of wiring in a panel switch for power to the receiver, problem solved.

The added (Edit to add "by Honda") accessory fuse box has outputs for heater, wiper and the existing light bar. Not sure how many will be adding a heater, and adding a wiper will trash the polycarbonate included windshield in short order. Those outputs are wired to plugs behind the cubby behind the existing switch panel, so can repurposed. The single actual switch on that panel is for the front light bar. It's not illuminated - some may prefer that, but it requires a bit of feeling to find it in the dark.

The next two "gripes" no doubt apply to all the '21 models. Fasteners, screws and bolts, are way tighter than they need to be, and some of the 5mm hex drive heads are slightly damaged (as if the impact driver was still turning when yanked out of the bolt's hex). To insure a hex bit will seat properly, all the way in, tap it in with a hammer until you hear/feel it go solid. Failure to do that will often result in a stripped out hex indent on the bolt.

Shift cables may not be adjusted optimally. I had to tweak the 2WD to Turf adjustment cables to get it to shift properly.

All that said, I like the machine and would buy it again.
I Just purchased a SE model a few weeks ago and i'm in the planning stages, thank you for the valuable information.

What battery did you use as your for the duel battery, I wanted to use a Odyssey PC925 but i don't believe it will fit in the space.

Also, If you have more photos that would be great.

Thank You Again


 
bumperm

bumperm

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Sorry, no photos yet. I've switched my attention to wiring the interior light, phone charger/holder, InReach cradle etc. Also working on a rear mound for the 48" Hi Lift jack (the jack will be the rear bumper).

In the photo, in my previous post, this battery is under the accessory fuse/relay box. I removed the bracket that "suspends" it part way in that empty well below, which now holds the battery. I hot melt glued the retention strap to the side walls of the well. Then on top of the battery I placed some firm foam so it allows the strap to cinch down the fuse/relay box securely. That all worked out nicely. (I was concerned about the strength of the hot melt glue, even though it's used in shear which is the strongest direction, so I tested it. Couldn't pull it loose, though I did not try to test to failure of course.

://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHLOHS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Russ989

Russ989

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I purchased the SE model over the less expensive models as I thought the "extras" were worth it. This thread is mostly for SE owners to discuss the ups and downs specific to this version. The pro's are obvious, and I would still have bought the SE knowing what I know now having owned it for a month. So I'm going to focus on the takeaways.

The front LED bar has a quite narrow beam suited for driving on a long straight stretch - 'cause there's not much peripheral or flood illumination. I'll be adding a 54" light bar.

The under hood area is more crowded than the SE's underling models, so one needs to be creative in adding things. They place the accessory fuse/relay box over the right side well that many use for an aux battery (I relocated that fuse box on mine).

This picture is after adding a bunch of stuff . . . I think I'm almost done.

View attachment 286098

The 4,500 lb winch has a steel rope, which is fine, though some prefer synthetic rope (I will leave that for now, maybe putting a synthetic rope on later). The only control for the winch is a wired remote that plugs into an outlet inside the glove compartment. The remote works regardless of key switch position and has enough wire length that you can get out front to tend the rope. I added a wireless receiver Amazon.com: LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for Jeep Truck ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset Waterproof: Electronics
that was easy enough to wire to the external (i.e. under the hood) relay contactor - piece of cake and works well. Some have reported intermittent running of the winch with this wireless control, probably due to RFI, so I took the precaution of wiring in a panel switch for power to the receiver, problem solved.

The added (Edit to add "by Honda") accessory fuse box has outputs for heater, wiper and the existing light bar. Not sure how many will be adding a heater, and adding a wiper will trash the polycarbonate included windshield in short order. Those outputs are wired to plugs behind the cubby behind the existing switch panel, so can repurposed. The single actual switch on that panel is for the front light bar. It's not illuminated - some may prefer that, but it requires a bit of feeling to find it in the dark.

The next two "gripes" no doubt apply to all the '21 models. Fasteners, screws and bolts, are way tighter than they need to be, and some of the 5mm hex drive heads are slightly damaged (as if the impact driver was still turning when yanked out of the bolt's hex). To insure a hex bit will seat properly, all the way in, tap it in with a hammer until you hear/feel it go solid. Failure to do that will often result in a stripped out hex indent on the bolt.

Shift cables may not be adjusted optimally. I had to tweak the 2WD to Turf adjustment cables to get it to shift properly.

All that said, I like the machine and would buy it again.
What was the OTD price?
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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  1. 1000-5
I paid MSRP for it, which is $24K. I frankly I don't recall what the total was out the door, but I think it was $26K and change (could have been a lot of change) with tax and license etc.

I have a formula for male spending decisions that applies mostly for tools and such.

Keeping in mind that no figure can be zero or negative:

Want X Need = Buy

As you can see, lots of need and very little want is still a buy. Also lots of want with little need is a buy!

The understood definition of a tool is something that has the capability of making money. Note it doesn't have to ever actually make money, so long as it possesses the potential for doing so.

My wife, of almost 52 years now, is good with all this, probably as I made it clear early on.
 
GROR

GROR

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Sorry, no photos yet. I've switched my attention to wiring the interior light, phone charger/holder, InReach cradle etc. Also working on a rear mound for the 48" Hi Lift jack (the jack will be the rear bumper).

In the photo, in my previous post, this battery is under the accessory fuse/relay box. I removed the bracket that "suspends" it part way in that empty well below, which now holds the battery. I hot melt glued the retention strap to the side walls of the well. Then on top of the battery I placed some firm foam so it allows the strap to cinch down the fuse/relay box securely. That all worked out nicely. (I was concerned about the strength of the hot melt glue, even though it's used in shear which is the strongest direction, so I tested it. Couldn't pull it loose, though I did not try to test to failure of course.

://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHLOHS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for the info!
 
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bumperm

bumperm

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Another niggling (can we still use that word?) issue is how they installed the Warn winch with the clutch release/engage control mostly shielded by a plastic fairing. This makes it "less than convenient" to operate. I'll take before and after pics when I modify that fairing some.
 
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Vikes79

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I purchased the SE model over the less expensive models as I thought the "extras" were worth it. This thread is mostly for SE owners to discuss the ups and downs specific to this version. The pro's are obvious, and I would still have bought the SE knowing what I know now having owned it for a month. So I'm going to focus on the takeaways.

The front LED bar has a quite narrow beam suited for driving on a long straight stretch - 'cause there's not much peripheral or flood illumination. I'll be adding a 54" light bar.

The under hood area is more crowded than the SE's underling models, so one needs to be creative in adding things. They place the accessory fuse/relay box over the right side well that many use for an aux battery (I relocated that fuse box on mine).

This picture is after adding a bunch of stuff . . . I think I'm almost done.

View attachment 286098

The 4,500 lb winch has a steel rope, which is fine, though some prefer synthetic rope (I will leave that for now, maybe putting a synthetic rope on later). The only control for the winch is a wired remote that plugs into an outlet inside the glove compartment. The remote works regardless of key switch position and has enough wire length that you can get out front to tend the rope. I added a wireless receiver Amazon.com: LIEBMAYA Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for Jeep Truck ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset Waterproof: Electronics
that was easy enough to wire to the external (i.e. under the hood) relay contactor - piece of cake and works well. Some have reported intermittent running of the winch with this wireless control, probably due to RFI, so I took the precaution of wiring in a panel switch for power to the receiver, problem solved.

The added (Edit to add "by Honda") accessory fuse box has outputs for heater, wiper and the existing light bar. Not sure how many will be adding a heater, and adding a wiper will trash the polycarbonate included windshield in short order. Those outputs are wired to plugs behind the cubby behind the existing switch panel, so can repurposed. The single actual switch on that panel is for the front light bar. It's not illuminated - some may prefer that, but it requires a bit of feeling to find it in the dark.

The next two "gripes" no doubt apply to all the '21 models. Fasteners, screws and bolts, are way tighter than they need to be, and some of the 5mm hex drive heads are slightly damaged (as if the impact driver was still turning when yanked out of the bolt's hex). To insure a hex bit will seat properly, all the way in, tap it in with a hammer until you hear/feel it go solid. Failure to do that will often result in a stripped out hex indent on the bolt.

Shift cables may not be adjusted optimally. I had to tweak the 2WD to Turf adjustment cables to get it to shift properly.

All that said, I like the machine and would buy it again.
I hate to rain on the parade, but the SE model ( had to go look it up as I never heard of it till now) looks mostly like a deluxe model with the pricey Honda switch panel, windshield, roof and a winch.

It doesn’t appear to have all the gadgets and gizmos of the LE model ( fox shocks, i4wd etc)



it’s the only version that already has installed what most buy with the P1000 at the dealership ..roof, winch and windshield plus the expensive switch panel (almost nobody buys this)

Not picking a fight, but simply pointing out that Special Edition (SE) doesn’t appear to be so special… certainly not at the prices listed…
 
Russ989

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I personally think it’s overpriced but a good choice for those that don’t like turning wrenches and wiring.
 
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GROR

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Crazy to think how people are paying almost 10K more then just a year or so ago
I looked for 8 months and couldn't find one anywhere, I walked into Rocky MTN ATV dealer in Price UT and they had the 1000 - SE. If it would have been a Deluxe, Limited or any other trim package I would have purchased it, it just happened to be a SE model... I did look at a 2019 1000-5 deluxe at another dealer in Utah but I wasn't going to pay $27.000.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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May 7, 2021
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Gardnerville, NV
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
I hate to rain on the parade, but the SE model ( had to go look it up as I never heard of it till now) looks mostly like a deluxe model with the pricey Honda switch panel, windshield, roof and a winch.

It doesn’t appear to have all the gadgets and gizmos of the LE model ( fox shocks, i4wd etc)



it’s the only version that already has installed what most buy with the P1000 at the dealership ..roof, winch and windshield plus the expensive switch panel (almost nobody buys this)

Not picking a fight, but simply pointing out that Special Edition (SE) doesn’t appear to be so special… certainly not at the prices listed…

No raining here! You are incorrect. The SE model is based on the Limited *NOT* on the Deluxe. Both SE and Limited have i4WD. Then there is the issue of availability, I could put my name on an inbound SE, while nothing else was available. I ended up waiting 5 weeks or so, which ain't too bad compared to a lot of folks.

As to the accessories, I can usually hold my own, being mechanically and electronically adept, have a small machine shop, welding stuff etc. etc.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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No raining here! You are incorrect. The SE model is based on the Limited *NOT* on the Deluxe. Both SE and Limited have i4WD. Then there is the issue of availability, I could put my name on an inbound SE, while nothing else was available. I ended up waiting 5 weeks or so, which ain't too bad compared to a lot of folks.

As to the accessories, I can usually hold my own, being mechanically and electronically adept, have a small machine shop, welding stuff etc. etc.
Ok that makes sense for the high price. Funny that the website doesn’t show this in the comparisons.

traditionally you could buy a base eps model and fully outfit yourself with the exception i4wd (hotly debated value if any) and still be 3-4 k less than a LE on the lot. Of course this is out the window for the past year.
 
Russ989

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For sure. Certainly there have been threads whom have wanted to simply have a machine ready to leave the lot with the roof, winch, windshield.
Absolutely, I think it was a good move on Honda’s part and it may not have been priced as high if it hit the market two years ago. I only paid $15,300 for my deluxe OTD but I have more in it than the guys that have the SE.
 
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