P1000 2nd battery and accessory install ='s hair loss

[JoeyL]

I don't believe my DPDT is momentary, there is no spring tension on either of the On positions. When I press the switch in the up or down potion, that's where it stays. I'll assume the switch I have is correct and that the wiring from TripleB's post is correct. Said that, I have no problem with ordering a different switch if it makes the install cleaner, just let me know.

OK good if it stays in position you are good.

Green is routed to the neg bus bar?
Red (always on power) to the aux battery via the pos bus bar?
Yellow (key on) wired directly to the store key on power harness?
Purple jumped and wired directly to the stinger OR via the accessory bus bar? It looks like it's via the accessory bus bar in your diagram?

yep you got it.

I got thinking about the winch being incorrect as I was working on the SXS, thanks for confirming that. I've ordered the following momentary winch switch: High quality OTRATTW Contura V laser-etched LED rocker switches for winches and horns

The new switch wiring diagram is below. Here's my crack at the correct wiring for the new winch rocker:
Pin 7 & 9 - Jump both to the neg bus bar
Pin 8 & 10 - Wire to back of winch solenoid per the instructions in the winch manual. If backwards (in/out) switch the connectors on the winch switch
Pin 2 - wire to the accessory bus

that is the right switch, i didnt see these before (i used my switch from Warn for mine becuase it has an indicator light on it)


ok on your wiring you are close but not quite.
you will have to jump 8 to 1 and 3 to 10 for this to work. 8 and 10 are the positive connections for the internal switch lights. 1 and 3 are the connections for the switch to the winch solenoid.
the switch you have here has independent lights, meaning that the lights on the switch can operate independent of the switch position. so if you want them to light up when you press the switch you have to jump them (8 and 10) to 1 and 3. conversely you could jump them both to pin 2 and have both lights always on.

 

[Twoonpoint]

yes as long as they fit and you dont overload the rating of the entire bar.




i bought mine at Academy locally, but i think you can find some on Amazon.
Marine Raider 5 + 2 Bus Bar | Academy

DONT BUY THIS ONE (i did at first and returned it) its way too big




i bought this one. 6 circuit w cover and negative bus

for sure you can fit two on the same screw, maybe 3. its not the best practice to do it though. your fuse should be protecting your wire and if you have multiple wires you may end up in a situation where it cant do its job



65z? assuming 65 amps
as long as the sum of your accessories dont exceed the rating it should be fine. i got the stinger because im still not sure what i will add (future proofing a bit) and it was reasonably priced and immediately available.



so think of this one from the other direction. i have a fuse there because this small wire (14GA i think) is connected directly to the battery via the bus bar. so if you touch it to the frame it will have full amperage from the battery without the fuse - fire hazard.



yes thats it



it allows you to turn off the display on the volt meter. since the meter is connected to the + side of both batteries, it is always on. So the relay switches the ground connection to break the circuit and turn off the meter. otherwise you would have to switch both + leads on the meter.

here is a pic i had when it was in progress. i dont have a finished pic on me.
bus bars are on the left, stinger is at the top right. you can see the fuse block tro the right of the amplifier, just below and left of the stinger
my wiring is not the prettiest, but it works
View attachment 204687

Did you drill out your aux battery holes to fit a larger bolt? They are ridiculously small.

 

[JoeyL]

Did you drill out your aux battery holes to fit a larger bolt? They are ridiculously small.

No but it’s a pain to get more than one connector on them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WVPioneer1000]

BrotherNov,

dont worry about asking, its not a problem to help you out.

• i connected the other two terminals on the solenoid on your drawing. this will switch it on when the key is on.
• pay attention to the instructions that come with your winch, unless it is an Axon it will have another solenoid to wire in and you cannot just connect the + and - terminals to the battery
• you can hook the winch wires to either the aux battery or the bus bars, whichever is more convenient

View attachment 204613

Hello Joey,

What bus bars did you use? My setup will be pretty close to this one.

 

[JoeyL]

Hello Joey,

What bus bars did you use? My setup will be pretty close to this one.

I used this one, but its because its what i could find locally, not necessarily my first choice.

Marine Raider 5 + 2 Bus Bar | Academy

It worked out fine though. the large lugs are big enough to stack 2-3 #6 wires on each. and the smaller screw connectors also came in handy.

 

[Jgroesbeck]

OK good if it stays in position you are good.


yep you got it.



that is the right switch, i didnt see these before (i used my switch from Warn for mine becuase it has an indicator light on it)


ok on your wiring you are close but not quite.
you will have to jump 8 to 1 and 3 to 10 for this to work. 8 and 10 are the positive connections for the internal switch lights. 1 and 3 are the connections for the switch to the winch solenoid.
the switch you have here has independent lights, meaning that the lights on the switch can operate independent of the switch position. so if you want them to light up when you press the switch you have to jump them (8 and 10) to 1 and 3. conversely you could jump them both to pin 2 and have both lights always on.

Joey - Almost there. In fact, I may be there. Got the 2nd battery, stinger, isolator w/ dual volt meter display, DPDT and winch switch hooked up.

-DPDT works as designed in this thread, I think. I can operate the winch from the 2nd battery with the machine off or with the key on.
- When I press down on the top part of the DPDT the winch operates with the key off.
-When the key is on I can press the lower part of the DPDT and run the winch.
-Isolator. This one threw me for a loop for a minute. After hooking everything up and running the winch, I thought the leads were backwards as my main battery was taking more of a drain when running the winch. Initially, I followed your wiring diagram and ran a wire from the main battery side of the isolator to the middle connector on the dual meter display. In reviewing post 30 of this thread (and reading the directions that came with the isolator) I realized I needed to run the main battery lead on the isolator to the outside connector of the dual volt display. That fixed that problem.


Couple other observations and questions specific to my build:
-With the key off I can push down on the top part of the DPDT and run the winch. Easy enough. When I do this I get no reading/power on the aux side of my dual volt meter display. Does your dual volt meter display the aux battery voltage in the key off position with the aux battery on via the DPDT? This is what I originally thought my wiring plan would lead to as I've watched in a few other builds, like NCdragon21.

However, after thinking about it, the volt meter relay is triggered off of key of power, so there is no way to get a reading on the dual volt meter display this way. How would I wire the dual volt meter relay to show aux battery voltage with the key off and the DPDT switch turned on for the aux battery? Is this something I could jump to the DPDT switch? I may be at point where I'm splitting hairs and I should just leave good enough alone.

Either way, I'm pretty damn happy that it all worked out. I'm deeply indebted to you man. IM me your address and I'll send you some of Idaho's locally brewed beer.

Cheers,
Joe

 

[WVPioneer1000]

I used this one, but its because its what i could find locally, not necessarily my first choice.

Marine Raider 5 + 2 Bus Bar | Academy

It worked out fine though. the large lugs are big enough to stack 2-3 #6 wires on each. and the smaller screw connectors also came in handy.

Thanks Joe. They are the ones I was looking at also.

 

[JoeyL]

-Isolator. This one threw me for a loop for a minute. After hooking everything up and running the winch, I thought the leads were backwards as my main battery was taking more of a drain when running the winch. Initially, I followed your wiring diagram and ran a wire from the main battery side of the isolator to the middle connector on the dual meter display. In reviewing post 30 of this thread (and reading the directions that came with the isolator) I realized I needed to run the main battery lead on the isolator to the outside connector of the dual volt display. That fixed that problem.

Yeah sorry about that. I didnt really draw the components pictorially accurate in the wiring diagram. I just intended to show two + and one - wire on the meter.

Couple other observations and questions specific to my build:
-With the key off I can push down on the top part of the DPDT and run the winch. Easy enough. When I do this I get no reading/power on the aux side of my dual volt meter display. Does your dual volt meter display the aux battery voltage in the key off position with the aux battery on via the DPDT? This is what I originally thought my wiring plan would lead to as I've watched in a few other builds, like NCdragon21.

However, after thinking about it, the volt meter relay is triggered off of key of power, so there is no way to get a reading on the dual volt meter display this way. How would I wire the dual volt meter relay to show aux battery voltage with the key off and the DPDT switch turned on for the aux battery? Is this something I could jump to the DPDT switch? I may be at point where I'm splitting hairs and I should just leave good enough alone.

just activate the volt meter relay from the accessory bus instead of key on power. if you notice in my diagram, key on power is only routed to the dpdt switch. that way everything behaves the same regardless of the dpdt position.

 

[mklay]

I purchased a use 700-4 with several accessories already installed. The wire job was a mess! Things worked some times and the auxiliary battery always drained. I pulled everything and am in the process of hooking it back up, much cleaner, but want to add a master power switch to the panel so it is on or off. My question is how do I know if there is a key on harness already installed?

 

[Mudwing]

I purchased a use 700-4 with several accessories already installed. The wire job was a mess! Things worked some times and the auxiliary battery always drained. I pulled everything and am in the process of hooking it back up, much cleaner, but want to add a master power switch to the panel so it is on or off. My question is how do I know if there is a key on harness already installed?

The harness plugs into the back of the 12V outlet and you’ll see wires coming off of that running to the stinger or wEnch contactor maybe. 😎

 

[mklay]

The harness plugs into the back of the 12V outlet and you’ll see wires coming off of that running to the stinger or wEnch contactor maybe. 😎

Thanks.
Is it this green one? The bottom goes to the 12v Plug.

 

[Mudwing]

Thanks.
Is it this green one? The bottom goes to the 12v Plug.

View attachment 231154

I think it is. 😎

 

[mklay]

The harness plugs into the back of the 12V outlet and you’ll see wires coming off of that running to the stinger or wEnch contactor maybe. 😎

Is it this green one?

 

[mklay]

Thanks!