P1000 Aftermarket Battery

[88dunerider]

Hey any of you running an aftermarket main battery ? if so what one?

 

[Admin]

 

[ohanacreek]

Hey any of you running an aftermarket main battery ? if so what one?

A lot of people are running the odyssey 925 as a second battery on the left side under the hood. I’m not sure if it would fit on the right side. If it would and you have a winch, a lot of lights, and/or a sound system I would run two batteries.

 

[OnTheJob]

Hey any of you running an aftermarket main battery ? if so what one?

I think the OEM is Yuasa which is suppose to fairly high end battery. I'm not thrilled with it's abilities with the cold and thinking of swapping myself

 

[88dunerider]

I think the OEM is Yuasa which is suppose to fairly high end battery. I'm not thrilled with it's abilities with the cold and thinking of swapping myself

Thats what i thought but like you im not amazed with the issues it has when its cold out. set up my battery tender in the garage next to it now. any temps below 35 degrees it needs a jump

 

[OnTheJob]

Thats what i thought but like you im not amazed with the issues it has when its cold out. set up my battery tender in the garage next to it now. any temps below 35 degrees it needs a jump

Me too:

 

[elkguide]

Thats what i thought but like you im not amazed with the issues it has when its cold out. set up my battery tender in the garage next to it now. any temps below 35 degrees it needs a jump

Guess that I've been lucky.

Mine has always started even at -20*. However @ -20* my power steering has frozen up!

 

[PioneerDuluth]

Me too:

View attachment 69463
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First off, nice work on the electrical. Very clean and what I envisioned mine will look like. I'm going to be installing the dual battery and winch soon, along with a spare fuse box for accessories.

Few questions for you:

Circle Number 1: What is that? I see the inline breaker above it, the winch solenoid, the dual battery isolater, and the aux. fuse box. Just curious if I'm missing a future part.
Circle Number 2: Why did you install a buss bar for the ground connections? Could you have just had all the ground points come together at the ground lug on the aux. fuse box?
Third Question: What make/model second battery are you running?

 

[Neohio]

Circle #1 is a battery isolater/solenoid. Using a DPDT switch allows using your accessories with the key on or off depending on switch. This is ideal. Having the solenoid strictly on ignition switch, will add hours to your machine if you have it sitting with key on, not running.

#2 is like you said, common ground. Not 100% required, but is a good idea to have a known good ground, without crowding the battery or chassis terminals.

#3, appears to be a mighty max battery roughly $55 shipped via ebay or amazon.
I don't have the link handy.

 

[PioneerDuluth]

Circle #1 is a battery isolater/solenoid. Using a DPDT switch allows using your accessories with the key on or off depending on switch. This is ideal. Having the solenoid strictly on ignition switch, will add hours to your machine if you have it sitting with key on, not running.

#2 is like you said, common ground. Not 100% required, but is a good idea to have a known good ground, without crowding the battery or chassis terminals.

#3, appears to be a mighty max battery roughly $55 shipped via ebay or amazon.
I don't have the link handy.

Thanks for the info. Why have the battery isolater/solenoid in circle #1 at all? Wouldn't you be able to run your accessories off the secondary battery regardless of key position? Couldn't you wire the secondary battery/aux. fuse box/accessories along with their switches so they work even if the machine and key are off? Sorry for all the questions, just want to wire my machine in the best way possible.

 

[Neohio]

Thanks for the info. Why have the battery isolater/solenoid in circle #1 at all? Wouldn't you be able to run your accessories off the secondary battery regardless of key position? Couldn't you wire the secondary battery/aux. fuse box/accessories along with their switches so they work even if the machine and key are off? Sorry for all the questions, just want to wire my machine in the best way possible.

You can wire your accessories to be always hot if you choose. Nothing wrong with doing it that way at all. I currently have my machine always hot. It does live on a battery tender when not being used though. No reason other than I already placed an order for switches and forgot to get it. I do have the solenoid, and it will be wired to a DPDT switch at some point.

Edit, What is best for you, is best for you and your uses. I don't have kids messing with my machine. No one to leave the lights or radio on by accident.

Edit #2, If I am away from my machine for any length of time, and am worried about people messing with it, just above circle 1 is a circuit breaker. I can trip that and essentially kill my second battery.

 

[PioneerDuluth]

You can wire your accessories to be always hot if you choose. Nothing wrong with doing it that way at all. I currently have my machine always hot. It does live on a battery tender when not being used though. No reason other than I already placed an order for switches and forgot to get it. I do have the solenoid, and it will be wired to a DPDT switch at some point.

Edit, What is best for you, is best for you and your uses. I don't have kids messing with my machine. No one to leave the lights or radio on by accident.

Edit #2, If I am away from my machine for any length of time, and am worried about people messing with it, just above circle 1 is a circuit breaker. I can trip that and essentially kill my second battery.

Thanks Man, great info.

 

[Landman]

Second what @Neohio said - a lot of it depends on your use. I was torn on whether to install the solenoid with a key/always hot switch... no youngsters riding with me or anything, but in the end, I choose to install it and I’ve yet to run across a time when I wanted everything to turn off with the key. It just seems like I always want something left on when I turn it off. But, if I was using it around a farm or doing something other than trail riding, it might be different and would probably come in handy.

So, I’m kind of glad I did it, even though I’ve not used it in the keyed position yet and don’t plan to in the foreseeable future.

 

[OnTheJob]

You can wire your accessories to be always hot if you choose. Nothing wrong with doing it that way at all. I currently have my machine always hot. It does live on a battery tender when not being used though. No reason other than I already placed an order for switches and forgot to get it. I do have the solenoid, and it will be wired to a DPDT switch at some point.

Edit, What is best for you, is best for you and your uses. I don't have kids messing with my machine. No one to leave the lights or radio on by accident.

Edit #2, If I am away from my machine for any length of time, and am worried about people messing with it, just above circle 1 is a circuit breaker. I can trip that and essentially kill my second battery.

What he said ^ ^^^^^^

Next thank you, because keeping it clean and wired tight was impotent to me.

These are the reason I thought it was a good idea to be able to switch the second battery on/off without key on:

A. I've got a 7 year old. He plays with switches. I've seen photos of people who leave their winch hot all the time, sometimes 24/7 others only when the battery was on and the winch was accidentally bumped or activated "IN" and it sucked the bumper right into the winch ripping stuff up. Three things need to happen for my winch to operate:

1. either key on and/or a dash switch on for second battery
2. power on switch for the winch
3. operate winch IN/OUT

Hopefully those redundancies will prevent an accidental activation.

B. I almost never have to worry about draining the main starting battery when I have have "key on" to get an accessory to work and the hour meter isn't spinning for no reason. When you key on you can hear lots of buzzes and whirls so the battery is being used preparing for a start. I can stop that from happening by using the switch to the isolator switch to only have to the second battery on with zero draw from the main battery. So I can use the lights as long as I want with the engine off and never worry about a dead battery.

C. Convenience and peace of mind knowing the accessory side is shut off from a dash switch. Slight coolness factor.

Since this photograph I made one change I'm surprised no one tore me up on. The winch red power line going to the 100 amp fuse panel cut the available amps available to more than a 1/3 less of what I could have directly connecting it to the second battery. That has been changed and now directly connected to the second battery positive post.

This is my build page if you want to see what I used, where I got it and what I did:
P1000 - OnTheJob's P1K-3 Build: "The Pie-O-Near"

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Me too:

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What is the terminal you used there for the negative wires? Could you also post what tender you are using. I like the set up.

 

[Neohio]

@Cuoutdoors if you go to his build thread, he has another pic of the power inlet on the side of his machine. Pretty ingenious setup if you ask me. The tender appears to be a noco brand. ~$40ish on Amazon if memory serves me right.

 

[Neohio]

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G3500-UltraSafe-Battery-Charger/dp/B004LWVEKS?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Tramguage1]

Just a thought.
An idea for you guys that need the extra juice to start in extreme cold.
Why not add a SPST heavy solenoid around the battery isolator that is controlled by a momentary rocker switch? Just hold the rocker switch and connect both batteries together to double the starting current.

 

[Neohio]

Just a thought.
An idea for you guys that need the extra juice to start in extreme cold.
Why not add a SPST heavy solenoid around the battery isolator that is controlled by a momentary rocker switch? Just hold the rocker switch and connect both batteries together to double the starting current.

Like a "boost" switch in a motorhome?

 

[OnTheJob]

What is the terminal you used there for the negative wires? Could you also post what tender you are using. I like the set up.

I grounded this bussbar on a separate 6 ga. wire to the same engine grounded point to make connecting multiple wires to a grounding point simple, easy and clean:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OTJ8A0/?tag=sxsweb24-20

It's not necessary, but keeps me from trying to connect 10+ wires to the same terminal.

The tender I am using has been great. 5-stars. Plug and play:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OTJ8A0/?tag=sxsweb24-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S/?tag=sxsweb24-20

The port plug, again is not needed, but makes life easy and keeps everything tidy.

Before I did the battery tender, I thought about a battery switch like I have on my boat, to switch between battery 1, battery 2, both or off. I also considered a momentary parallel switch (again something on have on boat in case one battery dies you can use the other to start both engines). This would connect both batteries momentarily to start the machine. Both these options were more work/money than I wanted to commit at the time when a battery tender seemed a much simpler approach. I am still open to to adding a parallel switch. What would be cool if I could find something in place of the True Isolator that I would allow me to switch which way the current flows at a given voltage OR completely open it connecting both batteries no matter the voltage. Either way, my current set up is serving me very well with no regrets at this time.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

I grounded this bussbar on a separate 6 ga. wire to the same engine grounded point to make connecting multiple wires to a grounding point simple, easy and clean:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OTJ8A0/?tag=sxsweb24-20

It's not necessary, but keeps me from trying to connect 10+ wires to the same terminal.

I used a single 3/8 bolt for a common ground on my last build. It worked great but by the time I was done there were a lot more wires than planned and it got to be a mess. Thanks for the link.

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