P1000 Annoyed's Build

[annoyed]

I probably should have done this to begin with..... versus having a couple threads with specific mods. I'll do my best to consolidate here.



In November '20 I picked up a 2016 Pioneer 1000-5. Got a heck of a deal on a unit with about 500 miles on it.

When we picked it up, it had a few mods:
-Honda Soft Top
-Honda shorty windshield
-4 LED Lights on the front
-Throttle Max gas pedal assist
-Spare tire (bouncing in the bed)
-Badlands 3500 Winch (actually installed properly, I was amazed).




Picked it up about 100 miles from home. You'll notice in the garage picture that there isn't a soft top on it anymore. Funny story, turns out 75mph + 25-30mph headwinds was a bit much for the factory soft top on an open trailer. Fortunately (1) there was no traffic behind me on the highway (2) only a few of the fiberglass rods were missing afterwards; the top was still physically attached, just shredded. Frankly, it didn't matter much to me, I had always planned on putting a hard top on it.

About two weeks after getting it, I got a lovely case of COVID followed up with pneumonia in both lungs.... Still working on recovering, but I've finally been well enough that I can install parts on it. Fortunately I was able to put about 100 miles on it with the family before I got sick. Wife and son had a blast on our rides.

Mods since buying:
-Honda OEM Hard Roof
-ICOM Ham Radio, Diamond fold-over antenna (so it still fits in the garage), RB3 NMO antenna mount at driver/rear ROPS.
-Brick City Fab rear rack w/Canyon 35 cooler.
-Generic single row LED Flood lights mounted to top of rear ROPS for backup lights (manually switched, didn't want automatic)
-Ripping out all of the old LEDs, switches and wiring the previous owner did. Calling it a "Rats Nest" would be an insult to rats. I really don't understand how this thing didn't catch fire.
-Honda under-dash net storage
-Honda under-seat storage compartment
-Rigid RDS 30" Light Bar (recycled from a truck I sold last year, it's been sitting in the garage waiting for a good home)
-New Yuasa GYZ16H Battery. Original battery was on it's last legs and didn't like being re-charged.
-2nd Battery
-New Switch Panel for Dash with new switches, RAM mount and a magnetic mic mount for the radio.
-Door drink holders
-Transferred my Garmin 64ST mount from my busted ATV (Honda TRX 300) to the pioneer.


Over the past few weeks, I was able to work on projects for about 30 min at a time while I was recovering... progress was admittedly super slow, but I had to do something to keep from going crazy.


The Rigid 30" light bar posed some problems, too wide for front bumper, too narrow for mounting to the roll bars. I ended up modifying the factory RIGID mounts by welding some extensions to them, and then using clamps to attach it to the front bumper. I'm happy with how it came out and it's rock solid. It does block a little of the headlight light due to being so wide, but it's very minimal (and frankly, if I need more light... well, it's there).




I recycled some mounts that the previous owner had used for mounting the LEDs on the ROPS. Picked up some single row flood lights to light up behind me if needed. You can see the cooler in the BCF rack in this picture, I'm going to relocate the rack lower for better rear visibility at some point (and lower center of gravity). I was really happy how well these lights tucked in. No mods to the roof were needed.





The 2nd battery project was... well, a project. Spent a lot of time looking around this forum looking to see how other people did their mods, researching which battery I wanted (there more AH, the better), and various other electrical parts. Below is a list of what I used:
-2GA Wire for Primary Ground to Chassis.
-4GA wire for all other grounds and positive loads
-Busbar for Grounds under "hood"
-200a circuit breaker
-120a relay
-30a relay
-Various 2GA & 4GA battery lugs (crimp on)
-12ga wire
-14ga wire
-16ga wire (tap to aux circuit to trip relay)
-Positaps
-Battery Isolator
-Blue Sea Systems 6 port fuse block with ground

I tapped into the accessory circuit (that powers the cigarette lighter) under the fuse block to trigger the 120a relay. When the pioneer is turned off, all electrical is cut on the accessory circuit via the relay. When the key is in the "ON" position, everything has power. The winch power is NOT on this circuit (however, the switch/relay is). The winch is wired to the secondary battery through the 200a circuit breaker. I replaced the breakers that came with the winch as I wasn't a huge fan of the exposed hot terminals that Badlands uses. Looking at specs, the winch pulls a max of about 210 amps for a moment; while the circuit breaker is rated for 200 amps, from the tests I've read, it'll trip above 215ish. If this becomes a problem later, I'll put a different breaker in.



Not exactly the rats-nest it once was. While not perfect, I'm happy with the results. I was even more happy when I went to test it and there were no sparks!

New switch panel, ICOM Ham Radio below



I went with a HAM radio due to the 50w output versus the lower outputs of GMRS. I ride alone so I'm not worried about comms with other riders. With a similar setup in my truck, I've been able to reach 65 miles away without using a repeater. In normal conditions, 30-40 miles is easy. This radio has had a MARS/CAP mod done to it to allow it to transmit outside of normal HAM frequencies for emergency use. I'll have GMRS/FRS/MURS frequencies programmed in for that reason, along with local Search & Rescue, USFS, and other frequencies that I can reach out to (again, for emergencies only). I got into HAM for emergency comms and have been very happy with the range in testing (sorry to any HAMS in the group, but I never got into the rag chewing). Frequently where I hike/4 wheel/ride, cell phone coverage is spotty at best.

Mounted the antenna in an RB3 NMO mount so that I could angle it straight up. Used a Diamond NR770HBNMO which is a taller antenna, but it folds over at the base. I can still get in the garage this way. When towing I use a small strap to keep it from bouncing around too much; I remove the strap when riding.




Projects in the works:
-Rear Door Storage (have the parts, just need to get to it)
-Honda OEM A-Arm Guards (got a heck of a deal on a used set, just need to install it)
-Door Hinge re-enforcement. Unsure if I'm going to go the Delrin inserts or 3D printed. The front doors are already sagging, with the weight of some things in the rear doors, I'm concerned about having an issue later.



If there's any specific pictures ya want to see or questions as to why I did stuff, feel free to ask. While this is my first SxS, I've been messing with cars and stuff for a long time now.

 

[Admin]

 

[annoyed]

Finally decided on a jack to use, trees aren’t exactly common out here, so I needed something to carry around with me. Picked up a Tusk scissor jack and mount. Thought about tossing the jack in the rear doors but decided I didn’t want the weight there as one of my doors is already sagging.



Also picked up a 1”x6’ UHMW rod to make hinge re-enforcements out of for the doors. For $20ish, it was worth the shot of doing it myself. If it sucks, I’ll probably buy a professional kit.

Haven’t decided just how I’m going to drill the hole perfectly centered, once I figure that out I’ll move forward. Then again, this could be the excuse I’ve been looking for to buy the drill press I’ve been wanting. Plan on installing machine washers to keep everything happy.

 

[elkguide]

Looking good!!!!!

 

[annoyed]

Well, got bored and wanted to do something today.... unfortunately it’s baby steps at the moment.

Inspired by this thread:
https://hondasxs.com/threads/homemade-door-bushings.15164/
I wanted to make some bushings, I’m just a perfectionist and wanted to make sure I drill the holes perfectly straight.

I was able to find some fender washers that fit a drill bit fairly snug. Welded washers to some scrap bar after spending a lot of time making sure the holes were perfectly lined up.

Tested it on some scrap wood and ended up with a 90 degree hole (checked at 8 different spots, because perfectionist).

Next I’ll make something to hold the 2.75” sections of plastic straight against the jig. Should make the whole process fairly simple when done.

disclaimer: this is entirely overkill for the project at hand. I’m bored and was looking for something to keep me busy. I’m going to be making the bushings for my pioneer and a few buddies when done...... if this mad scientist contraption works.





Well, a humbling update. This thing didn't work at all. Got frustrated trying to make the tube work and ended up 3D printing some inserts out of PETG. Will give it a while to test before giving my final impressions.

 

[annoyed]

Finally got around to something today..... installing the rock slider gussets. My buddy put a pretty good ding in his, so I wanted to make sure I kept mine in good shape.

Picked up a set of gussets from here Universal Tube Reinforcement (Single)

Cut to size, then painted with some durable paint. The paint may look like crap, but I've used it on a few projects and it holds up well, really hard to scratch. I didn't paint the side that attaches to the frame as I wanted to keep everything adhered as well as possible.

I could of welded these to the frame, but I decided I wanted the remote-possibility to remove them if needed in the future, so I used some VHB tape. I ended up doing 2 rows of tape so that there was 100% coverage on the frame contact surface.

First one is in place currently, after 72 hours I'll attach the other one. Wanted to make sure the tape had time to do it's job before I did the other side. I only have 2 clamps that seem to fit, my metal-working clamps wouldn't work.


When my buddy isn't working 7 days a week, we'll install a set on his Pioneer - I ordered a set of gussets for him as well.






Next projects will be finally getting around to figure out what skid plate I'm putting on (more than likely SATV), and if I want to put a full windshield on it. Really like the 801UTV full glass windshield, but I'm not sure if it's a bad idea to go full windshield with how much heat/dust we have out here. I'm hesitant to put on a poly windshield with how scratched up my buddy's Honda Poly windshield is.

 

[ToddACimer]

Finally got around to something today..... installing the rock slider gussets. My buddy put a pretty good ding in his, so I wanted to make sure I kept mine in good shape.

Picked up a set of gussets from here Universal Tube Reinforcement (Single)

Cut to size, then painted with some durable paint. The paint may look like crap, but I've used it on a few projects and it holds up well, really hard to scratch. I didn't paint the side that attaches to the frame as I wanted to keep everything adhered as well as possible.

I could of welded these to the frame, but I decided I wanted the remote-possibility to remove them if needed in the future, so I used some VHB tape. I ended up doing 2 rows of tape so that there was 100% coverage on the frame contact surface.

First one is in place currently, after 24 hours I'll attach the other one. Wanted to make sure the tape had time to do it's job before I did the other side. I only have 2 clamps that seem to fit, my metal-working clamps wouldn't work.


When my buddy isn't working 7 days a week, we'll install a set on his Pioneer - I ordered a set of gussets for him as well.

View attachment 285384 View attachment 285385




Next projects will be finally getting around to figure out what skid plate I'm putting on (more than likely SATV), and if I want to put a full windshield on it. Really like the 801UTV full glass windshield, but I'm not sure if it's a bad idea to go full windshield with how much heat/dust we have out here. I'm hesitant to put on a poly windshield with how scratched up my buddy's Honda Poly windshield is.

How did the rock sliders turn out?

 

[annoyed]

The VHB takes 72 hours to fully cure, so I’ll leave the one clamped until then. Used my cold cut saw to cut it down to length and then knocked off sharp corners with a flapper disk.

so far I’m happy with them. Very stout. I would have zero hesitation to use them as a jacking point, whereas I wouldn’t trust the frame prior.

I dig how they are made, much better product than I would of made for myself.

edit to add: originally I ordered more clamps from Amazon, but with the flooding out here, all roads to/from our town are not passable. They were supposed to be here today. Oh well. I waited this long so I’m not in a hurry.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Thanks for gusset link.
I think I'd tack weld or bolt them on, in the remote possibility they get knocked off.

 

[annoyed]

I didn’t want to mess with welding them just yet, but may in the future. I’ve used this adhesive in the past and, well, it never came off in harsh conditions.
I’ll monitor it and if it starts to give way I’ll swap to plan b.

I trust this adhesive more than a self tapping screw. Welding would be ideal, however I have my reasons for starting with the adhesive.

 

[ToddACimer]

My post wasnt second guessing the VHB, thats how I attached mine 2 years ago and it's rock solid, very similar to welding but more work to remove. I was struggling to see if your sliders were under the tube or around the outside edge based on the clamp and wood position. Also with good paint adhesion, VHB can be used on painted parts and it's actually less likely to corrode or delaminate

 

[annoyed]

My post wasnt second guessing the VHB, thats how I attached mine 2 years ago and it's rock solid, very similar to welding but more work to remove. I was struggling to see if your sliders were under the tube or around the outside edge based on the clamp and wood position. Also with good paint adhesion, VHB can be used on painted parts and it's actually less likely to corrode or delaminate

oh I didn’t take it that way at all.
It’s on the underside of the tube. I got them as far under as I could before hitting the cross supports that kept me from getting them perfectly under. If 6 o clock would be perfect, these are at 7 o clock

I used mineral spirits on all surfaces before application and also cleaned further for best adhesion.

Once set I’ll get a better picture.

When it’s time for skid plates, I’ll drill and tap through both the frame and the sliders.

 

[annoyed]

Better picture

 

[bumperm]

Haven’t decided just how I’m going to drill the hole perfectly centered, once I figure that out I’ll move forward. Then again, this could be the excuse I’ve been looking for to buy the drill press I’ve been wanting. Plan on installing machine washers to keep everything happy.

Would be lot's easier if you had a lathe handy . . . my machine shop is 9.5 miles away at my hangar, not convenient, so I've used the wood lathe at home on occasion - at least for center drilling but not for machining. I've machined UHMW-PE on lathe and mill, it changes dimension (high temperature coefficient) more than Delrin, but is absolutely the mechanically strongest plastic out there, and almost as slippery as Teflon. I use it for the skids and lining the chute on my snowblower.



It also increases throw distance due to reduced friction (doing a neighbor's driveway):

 

[annoyed]

Well, the 3D printed (PETG) bushings appear to work well. Installed the driver/front door first as it was my worst door, huge improvement. Been cranking them out to finish my SxS and do my buddy's bike. Taking the opportunity to tweak some settings on my printer to get PETG dialed in as much as possible. Really hate this material, but it's a lot better than PLA for using in a real environment.


I didn't design this print/model, was a simple download from "thingiverse"

Buddy is looking forward to me finishing the round of projects on my SxS. Told me this weekend his plan is to have me park my Honda in his garage, and he'll just park his in mine so I can work on it..... sigh. He has a project list.... switch panel, 2nd battery & isolator, door bushings, rock sliders...... I'm sure there will be more. I'll get payback when it's time for him to do some work on my cummins

 

[annoyed]

Started working on some mounts for some shackles on my front bumper. Primary desire for them was for some better tie-down points when I'm towing it somewhere, but if I need a pull out of somewhere or a buddy does... they will come in handy.

Went with these shackles: 3/4" Shackle
Found a good price on some clevis mounts: Clevis Mount

They use 3/8 bolts to attach. Did a lot of measuring on the front bumper to ensure I was getting everything square before I picked a location. Didn't like how small the rear bracket was that came with the clevis mounts, so I cut up some metal I had laying around to spread the load out more across the bumper.

Painted everything with some heavy duty paint.... the only downside is it's slow to dry so I won't be able to put everything back together until tomorrow.

Don't be too judgmental on the brackets.... I cut them with an angle grinder and they will never be seen. I wasn't too worried about making them pretty.




I did put some paint on the holes where I drilled through the bumper to prevent rusting issues.

I also finished the rear door storage on one side. I will probably end up opening it up a little more as it's a little difficult to get my arm all the way in to the bottom to grab stuff out.

I went with the install that replaced all the bolts and didn't use a hinge. I had a problem initially where the pins didn't line up perfectly with the little latches. In playing with the latches, I realized that the ball-head didn't need to be inserted perfectly straight, they could be inserted at an angle. So I took the pins to my vice and "adjusted" them to a slight angle and then checked. That worked great, a little adjustment and they all click in place now. Spent a bit of time making small turns to each pin to get it as close to the door body as possible. Sticks out a little more than factory, but it's hardly noticeable. I did put some small o-rings on the pins with the thought that it may help keep some dust out of the locking mechanism, that's probably overly optimistic on my part, but we'll see how it works.



You can see I cut a small hole here, will definitely open it up a bit more.


Here you can see the slight bend in the pin to make it align better.



I have enough of the buttons & pins to do the other side, if I run out of storage for the crap I wanna keep with me, I'll mod that side as well.


I also picked up a roll-bar mount first aid kit from amazon to keep some quick-fix items in.
SmittyBuilt Roll Bar First Aid Kit

Fits a chest seal, some gauze, quick clot, shears, TQ and other "important" items. I keep a similar kit in my hunting pack, but I'm a fan of having stuff in multiple places to access quickly.

 

[bumperm]

Some comments:

The reinforcement for the clevises will not buy you much unless they were physically attached beyond just being "sandwiched" between clevis and original backing plate. In order to fail before the tensile failure of the bolts, the bumper material would have to tear out. Your reinforcement, well, everything beyond about 4 times the size of the original backing plate, won't add a lot. Perhaps more important would be to deburr the edges of the holes, you drilled in the bumper, to reduce stress risers in the probably unlikely event that tearing would occur (not knowing the thickness and strength of the bumper material.

Disclaimer: I'm no mechanical engineer, the above is but a semi-educated WAG.

On the door panels, there are two ways to achieve alignment other tha bending the ball end shafts. One is to gently heat the nut to soften the ABS enough to flex the nut portion. ABS can be formed at 221*F, so don't get carried away with too much heat. If you don't have a small tip for a heat gun, you can make a suitable small hole in a sheet of metal to use that as a "shield". Another way would be to heat only the ball end of the screw (using the shield), put a bit of scrap metal tubing over the ball to act as a handle, the apply lateral pressure to the handle/screw while applying the heat so you can feel when it goes soft, remove shield and put color panel in place to position stuff until the plastic cools. The advantage of this is you can replace the ball end screw if need be, without rebending. Also the straight ball end screw allows for more precise length adjustment.

The second way to adjust things is to enlarge the hole the button goes though on the side of the hole you need to shift. The just gently snug up the button's nut and install. The button will self-align. Remove panel and tighten.

(Good idea on the rubber O-Rings . . . grin!)

 

[annoyed]

Well, I'll be the first to admit that I'm not an engineer and I don't play one on TV. Started playing with metal stuff off-and-on over the past 18 months as a hobby. I'm sure there's a lot of people here with a LOT more experience in this stuff than I have.

I didn't do the reinforcement for anything more than to keep the clevis from being pulled through the bumper. The material I used is 4-5 times thicker than the bumper material.

I am/was trying to distribute the pull force over a wider area than the small brackets that were included (That I for some reason painted in the above picture. I really don't know why I did that, I'm not going to use them). While a straight-pull load would be ideal, for tethering to the trailer or less-than-ideal pulls, I figure there will be some angle pulled on them. Just was hoping to prevent problems in the future. Time will tell. Worst case scenario, new bumpers aren't cost-prohibitive. I was disappointed with how thin the bumper material is on the pioneer. I already have some dings from light "contacts" with rocks at low speeds.

And good catch, I didn't mention it, but I did de-bur the holes after drilling.

I thought about softening the plastic, but figured I would give the "bend" a shot first. I got every pin to where it latched as tight as I wanted and then marked the location with a sharpie. Made my adjustment to the angle of the pin and then re-installed to the needed depth. Probably took longer, but I'm happy with the results. The benefit to doing it this way, is if for some reason I wanted to go back to the original bolts and get-rid of the access area, I can just swap the bolts back in.

I know I saw the o-ring idea somewhere on here.... just can't remember which thread. There's a bunch of smart fellas on this site.... 😁


Edit:

Cheated with a heat gun to get the paint to a workable state faster.

 

[bumperm]

On the O-rings, that was tongue in cheek with a smile, I was the one who posted that idea.

 

[ToddACimer]

I had those shackle mounts for 7 miles. Bent them the first time I used them. Threw them and the stock bumper away. I wouldn't recommend them for anything other than a trailer tie down

 

[bumperm]

I had those shackle mounts for 7 miles. Bent them the first time I used them. Threw them and the stock bumper away. I wouldn't recommend them for anything other than a trailer tie down

If no pics, more details, please. How did they fail? Did they tear out (probably unlikely) or did they bend the stock bumper. Being as the clevis is 3/4" thick steel, I'd think it also unlikely that the clevis itself bent).

Since the upper portion of the bumper is kind of cantilevered up in space (no attach points above the winch, my plan to use a soft shackle on the bumper tubing doesn't look to have much promise either.

Thanks for any additional info.