P1000 Bent connecting rod

[Cwilkins]

Ok guys I am new to the forum hope this is in the right spot. I have a p1k that has taken in water going though a shallow puddle if water at a high speed. So I drained the oil pulled plugs and started it up and had a knock so I took it in to Honda they didn't even touch it and said that Honda would not cover it and that it would be $7,000 to $10,000 to fix. So obviously I wasn't paying that so I took it home and started to pull it apart I found that the 1 rod is bent and the piston is just barley hitting the counter weight on the crank. I am going to replace both rods both pistons rings and head bolts and out it back together.

 

[Admin]

 

[Jarred]

Did it basically hydro lock then? Could this have been a situation where insurance may have been a good course to take? Unless you are a gear head and prefer tearing into it yourself


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[Cwilkins]

Did it basically hydro lock then? Could this have been a situation where insurance may have been a good course to take? Unless you are a gear head and prefer tearing into it yourself


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Well the engine was never locked up but it was running at high rpm when it took in water. So the only thing I could figure is water won't compress and all of that force had to go somewhere. I didn't have insurance at the time but I do now and I really just wonted to do it my self to insure it was done right.

 

[CumminsPusher]

I'm really sorry to hear about this! That really sucks!! I had the same thing happen to me. These machines hate water! I'm hoping it didn't scar up the piston wall then you might be able to get by cheaper but I hate to say this, when we had the problem there wasn't parts available for some of it including the rod and they aren't making crate motors available yet that I'm aware of. Maybe that's opened up some.
Why it's so expensive is that all the bearings are very close tolerance and if any dirt got in it's a good idea not to trust in these so they basically replace everything.

 

[joeymt33]

Well the engine was never locked up but it was running at high rpm when it took in water. So the only thing I could figure is water won't compress and all of that force had to go somewhere. I didn't have insurance at the time but I do now and I really just wonted to do it my self to insure it was done right.

We are going to have to direct you to the snorkel thread when you get it back together.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[GPR1500SC]

Here is a link to where I got oxygen sensor I needed they have good prices.
Rebuilding it will not cost that much, I cann't imagine the tolerances are any tighter then any other high performance engine.
My dash display was on a three to six day back order end up taking three weeks
Good Luck

Save 25% on Honda OEM UTV Parts | MotoSport

 

[lee]

Why it's so expensive is that all the bearings are very close tolerance and if any dirt got in it's a good idea not to trust in these so they basically replace everything.

From what I have read, the big difference between the P1k and any Honda ATV is that the P1k has plain bearings like a car. The ATV engines (P500 & P700) have a roller bearing con rod. My impression is that the roller bearing is more tolerant of being swamped (or we have more experience swamping ATVs , drying them out and continuing to ride them).

Bottom line, I just don't have any experience swamping a Honda Fit, although my daughter may change that for me.

 

[CumminsPusher]

@lee thank you for the added clarification here! I know when we went through this I was told by Honda the clearance issues but this makes absolute sense so I understand what you're saying. I know in some of the cases it's partially the dirt that seized the motor or so I was told. Mine the rod was actually fine so they thought but needed pulled out for further inspection because it wasn't replaceable at the time. Once water reaches the motor they said every part get replaced.

 

[Cwilkins]

Thanks for the support guys. I will definitely be snorkeling it when I'm done. I have found no sign of dirt in the engine it is spotless the cylinder walls look great other than you can see where water hit the cylinder and it left water spots but nothing a glaze breaker won't fix. The problem I am have now is there is a few different sets of rod bearings and know one can tell me witch ones I need I have called Honda I have called the place where I was ordering parts and also my local dealer and no luck yet. Hopefully in the future if anyone has this issue I can guide them in the right direction.

 

[Cwilkins]

I'm really sorry to hear about this! That really sucks!! I had the same thing happen to me. These machines hate water! I'm hoping it didn't scar up the piston wall then you might be able to get by cheaper but I hate to say this, when we had the problem there wasn't parts available for some of it including the rod and they aren't making crate motors available yet that I'm aware of. Maybe that's opened up some.
Why it's so expensive is that all the bearings are very close tolerance and if any dirt got in it's a good idea not to trust in these so they basically replace everything.

Thanks man. I read your whole post about you getting water in yours and mine was about the same way going fast though a shallow puddle of water Honda didn't even touch mine said nope put it back on the trailer and call you insurance witch I didn't have at the time but after reading your post I now have GEICO.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Again I'm really sorry to hear about this! I truly love this machine and obviously enough to stay with one but have been doing my best to get the word out about a simple snorkel fix. We put a lot of money into these and to have that ripped away is a big deal. I think we all need to keep bringing this up. Insurance is a good thing and after our experiences I always say Geiko.

Thank you for planning to be there to help others, it's an expensive ordeal to bring in. Sounds good on the sidewalls that's a huge plus! Have you checked into all of the rest of the parts yet? There were a couple things n/a at the point of ours failing, I know all of the gaskets and many items are stateside.


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[Cwilkins]

Again I'm really sorry to hear about this! I truly love this machine and obviously enough to stay with one but have been doing my best to get the word out about a simple snorkel fix. We put a lot of money into these and to have that ripped away is a big deal. I think we all need to keep bringing this up. Insurance is a good thing and after our experiences I always say Geiko.

Thank you for planning to be there to help others, it's an expensive ordeal to bring in. Sounds good on the sidewalls that's a huge plus! Have you checked into all of the rest of the parts yet? There were a couple things n/a at the point of ours failing, I know all of the gaskets and many items are stateside.


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Yes they told me 2 weeks I should have everything but I am not sure witch rod bearings to order I guess I can order them all and send back what I don't use they are labeled yellow,white ext. And Honda couldn't even help me witch was frustrating.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Ok I feel a little better that's great to hear!


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[Hondasxs]

Thanks for the support guys. I will definitely be snorkeling it when I'm done. I have found no sign of dirt in the engine it is spotless the cylinder walls look great other than you can see where water hit the cylinder and it left water spots but nothing a glaze breaker won't fix. The problem I am have now is there is a few different sets of rod bearings and know one can tell me witch ones I need I have called Honda I have called the place where I was ordering parts and also my local dealer and no luck yet. Hopefully in the future if anyone has this issue I can guide them in the right direction.

I just took a look at this and its well above my head.
I did not even know what a oil duct bearing was until just now.

For those wanting to know what i'm talking about. Here is the best document I could find about the oil duct bearings - The SKF Oil Injection Method

You have a manual.... Yes?

 

[Delton]

I asked this a while back and can't remember what the answer is. I have a shop manual but haven't looked at it. On Honda motorcycles, the different colors are different sizes (obviously). To determine which color you need, the big end of the rod would be marked with a number or letter (can't remember which) and the crank would have numbers/letters. For example #1 rod would have an A or 1 on it and crank would have a B or a 1 on it. Then you'd look up the combination you have in manual (or call a dealers service dept) and they'd tell you what color bearing you'd need for that particular code. This may not apply to the p1k motor at all, but since they've done this on their bikes for decades, I'd think they'd continue doing this. Hopefully that made some sort of sense.

 

[whayden2003]

Ok......

I'm not sure what I just read but......ehw pictures.

That link was about me. Lol. Sorry for the trouble with the motor but thanks for the thread.

 

[whayden2003]

Man, sorry for the trouble you are having. Well organized looking tear down you got going on. Keep us updated. Post as many pics as you can.

 

[Cwilkins]

I asked this a while back and can't remember what the answer is. I have a shop manual but haven't looked at it. On Honda motorcycles, the different colors are different sizes (obviously). To determine which color you need, the big end of the rod would be marked with a number or letter (can't remember which) and the crank would have numbers/letters. For example #1 rod would have an A or 1 on it and crank would have a B or a 1 on it. Then you'd look up the combination you have in manual (or call a dealers service dept) and they'd tell you what color bearing you'd need for that particular code. This may not apply to the p1k motor at all, but since they've done this on their bikes for decades, I'd think they'd continue doing this. Hopefully that made some sort of sense.

Yes thank you. My rod has A on it I haven't looked on the crank yet I will do that when I get home from wirk

 

[Cwilkins]

I just took a look at this and its well above my head.
I did not even know what a oil duct bearing was until just now.

For those wanting to know what i'm talking about. Here is the best document I could find about the oil duct bearings - The SKF Oil Injection Method

You have a manual.... Yes?

I just ordered one yesterday it won't be here until next week.

 

[Cwilkins]

I asked this a while back and can't remember what the answer is. I have a shop manual but haven't looked at it. On Honda motorcycles, the different colors are different sizes (obviously). To determine which color you need, the big end of the rod would be marked with a number or letter (can't remember which) and the crank would have numbers/letters. For example #1 rod would have an A or 1 on it and crank would have a B or a 1 on it. Then you'd look up the combination you have in manual (or call a dealers service dept) and they'd tell you what color bearing you'd need for that particular code. This may not apply to the p1k motor at all, but since they've done this on their bikes for decades, I'd think they'd continue doing this. Hopefully that made some sort of sense.

If you get a chance and don't mind looking can you tell me where on the crank to find the #/letters I didn't pull the crank so hopefully they put it where you can still read it. My rod bearing has A stamped on the cap and they only sell one "a" bearing and the color is black so I'm thinking to order that one.