P500 Clutch adjust & oil level...

[Arizona]

Note about clutch adjust & oil level... My 2015 P-500 was running & shifting fine, then tried a Honda tech 1/3 turn suggestion, and it wouldn't shift out of 1-2-or 3 unless way off, or off of gas pedal. Went back to 1/4 turn still bad shifting, tried a little less than 1/4 and still bad, went back to 1/4 still bad. Was driving me crazy, until I checked my oil dipstick, and I use full synthetic, it was surprisingly 1/3 to 1/2 quart low. Filled it up to upper dipstick level, completely solved the shifting problem. Turns out that with low oil, my clutch adjust attempts were way out of whack. After filling it up to proper oil level, checked clutch adjust again, and it was nowhere near 1/4 turn that I had set it with lower oil level. So now with full oil, did adjust again to 1/4 turn and it is shifting perfect again. Don't know how or why, but low oil level will not allow proper clutch adjustment, at least not with my P-500, thought others should know this. I also learned, and after reading a comment by Trigger in 2016 that with full synthetic, (thinner & more slippery) some oil can get past the rings, ever so slowly. I've now learned to check my oil level more often. I've been around machines like this my whole life, never had one use any oil, always same level on dipstick every check using regular mineral oil. Seems full synthetic can reduce oil level over time. Both my Can Am machines call for full synthetic oil, and they do need some topping off now & then.

 

[alloutdoors]

Have you checked the airbox to see if there is oil there?

 

[Arizona]

Have you checked the airbox to see if there is oil there?

Good thought. I cleaned the air filter in spring, air box was dry, removed the stock air intake and ran dust collection hose to top of roll cage and put a dry foam filter on end of hose, much quieter, filter stays clean now instead of stock fender intake sucking in all the Arizona dust from the front left tire. Top of roll cage is clean air, I don't follow other machines, 300 miles and months later, and air cleaner still looks like the day I cleaned it. After topping off oil, it is shifting perfect now, no reason to suspect any other problems, thanks for the thought.

 

[trigger]

It's the synthetic oil. I run Royal Purple in everything I own and always keep an eye on the oil levels, I learned the hard way as well.

 

[Arizona]

It's the synthetic oil. I run Royal Purple in everything I own and always keep an eye on the oil levels, I learned the hard way as well.

Thanks for confirming Trigger, I know now. I also notice when pouring full synthetic, it's so thin, more like pouring 3 in 1 oil or a lightweight machine oil. Every time I pour some in, I wonder how some of this thin oil could not get past the rings over time? Now I know that it does. But full synthetic is still a superior lubricant over mineral oil, just have to check it more often now. Makes me a little nervous now though hoping I don't go too long without checking levels, especially with having 6 machines to keep track of, makes me wonder if a synthetic blend might be better for safety, hold the level longer?

 

[trigger]

My understanding is once you go synthetic you're not supposed to go back to conventional. Conventional motor oil has a lot of detergent in it and will wipe out the coating that syn. leaves behind causing oil leaks. I ran a 5 qt engine 3 1/2 qts low and never knew it, motor never missed a beat and I was travelling 85 and 90 for extended periods of time. Even after that I'll never use regular oil again.