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P1000m5 DIY Minimalist Mud Flaps: <$50

Discussion in 'Pioneer 1000 Accessories and Modifications' started by dnjones161, Jan 25, 2019.

  1. dnjones161

    dnjones161 Well-Known Member

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    I know this has been done before (@GlockMeister and @ohanacreek were the builds that I found while searching), but I wasn't able to find a good "parts list" or detailed instructions, so I tried to keep a record while I was going (back and forth to Menard's to swap fasteners:D).

    A little background about my goals for the project:

    I almost pulled the trigger on a set of Mud Busters over Christmas, but I didn't want quite as much coverage as they offered on the outside (running factory wheels), and I couldn't bring myself to spend $150 dollars on the rear set and then take a Dremel to them. I store a lot of stuff in the foot well of the back seats during longer rides, and it never fails that its soaked or stuffed with mud when I’m done for the weekend. I’ve also noticed that the underside of the bed on the 1000-5 has 100k little nooks and crevices that all hold mud, so I thought a set of mud flaps might prevent a bit of that and speed up the clean up process as well.

    That thought process lead my to these three goals:

    1. Created a decent looking set of rear mudflaps the size I wanted for <50 dollars (sweet spot on mods IMO)

    2. Cover the front of the wheel-well as to not suck mud in the rear seat foot wells.

    3. Retain a factor-ish look.
    So off to Menards I went with a dream and a 50 dollar budget. The big question mark was the cost of the HDPE. I had to special order this sheet, but I ended up with a 4x8 foot sheet of 1/8th inch HDPE for 27 dollars on sale. You can get smaller chunks, but I had a homemade roof for the front of the Pioneer on my mind (mods < 50 bucks are quickly becoming my preferred form of entertaining myself on the weekends when its too cold to ride), so I went with the bigger chunk. Honestly, wasn't that much more than buying several smaller sheets.


    It took several trips back and forth before I landed on this parts list, but I think it will be most helpful to have the complete list in one place, so here it is:


    6x #10 sheet metal screws ¾ inch $0.82


    6x fender washer for #10 screws
    (I want to say 7/32 inside diameter is what I settled on but its easy enough to find the correct washer with screw in hand at the store) $1.60


    4x ¼-20 1 ½ inch elevator bolt $2


    4x ¼-20 nut $2 (intended to use nylon nut but ended up using standard nut/locktite as nylon nut required to much grip on the elevator bolt to seat)


    4x ¼ inch ID fender washer $1.60


    6x factory plastic clips $2


    1x 4x8 ⅛ inch HDPE sheet $27


    2x factory door bushings $0 (thanks again to @Montecresto, @OleRed and @Cuoutdoors)


    So I was at 37 dollars in material (probably closer to 20 if you take into account the sheet was mostly left over for my roof project). Note that Menard's charged a 15 dollar "special delivery" fee for the HDPE, but refunded it in full when I returned the two pieces of plywood the HDPE sheet came sandwiched in. Very pleased with this.

    Next it was time for a little cardboard mock up:

    IMG_20190112_113641073.jpg IMG_20190112_110320131.jpg IMG_20190112_110305950.jpg IMG_20190112_121219472.jpg

    Here are the "final" measurements that I came up with.

    For the top piece:

    top.jpg

    And for the "front" piece:

    front.jpg

    Note that the "top" piece took a little extra trimming to fit properly around the frame once the HDPE was used, so I left out specific measurements up there. I also don't know if the "frame hole" on the front piece was entirely necessary after mounting, but its easy enough to make adjustments with a dremel after mounting. The big measurements to pay attention to are the length and width of the pieces. Of course if you wanted to go wider, you could always go > 10.75 inches.


    After I had the mock ups, I measured and made cuts with a jigsaw, a table saw and a dremel. I recommend doing as much work on the table saw as possible: it was by far the easiest and cleanest to work with.

    IMG_20190113_213810301.jpg

    Note the sanding block to clean up the edges. A little massaging with the heat torch to put an angle in the "front piece" where the wheel well bends and we were ready for install.

    Each piece has 4 mounting points.

    The "top" piece mounts in the frame of the bed with 3 #10 metal screws (predrill 1/8th inch pilot holes), and 1 factory clip mounted in the dip where the seat latch drops into when they are down. As others have said, I like the 5/16 drill bit when installing factory clips rather than the recommended 3/8 for a snugger fit.

    IMG_20190124_202101834.jpg


    The "front" piece mounted up with 2 of the elevator bolts in the "step", if you will, and then two factory clips up in the fender. Location is hard to describe for these so I tried to take good pictures.

    Note I used two pieces of re-purposed factory door bushing as spacers for the elevator bolts. The slightly larger piece goes on the inside (toward the motor) to keep the fender flare oriented properly.

    IMG_20190124_153952208.jpg IMG_20190124_154007130.jpg IMG_20190124_174034764.jpg


    I think the best way to make sure everything lines up is to mount the bottom two elevator bolts temporarily to set the width and height of the bottom piece, and then have a 2nd person hold the piece straight and tight to the inner fender while drilling pilot holes with a 1/8 inch bit through both the fender and fender flare. 1/8 inch bit is much easier to get through- but watch your fingers as it would be easy to go through both fenders and a hand if you weren't careful.:eek:

    You can see I played around with painting some of the hardware black. You can't even spot the elevator bolts unless you are RIGHT up on them, and the clips look to be factory from the top. That was another goal I suppose- to be able to remove them if I wanted and not look like a complete cob-job.

    I also had to trim a little triangle off the bottom piece to make the two flow together when closed, but very minimal and again, this stuff is super easy to adjust with a dremel tool and couple cutting wheels.

    The last thing I did was round a few of the sharp corners to smooth out the look. All in all I'm super happy with how it turned out.

    Here's a few of the final product:

    IMG_20190124_153903118.jpg IMG_20190124_153849692.jpg IMG_20190124_153913164.jpg IMG_20190124_153931110.jpg IMG_20190124_202025985.jpg IMG_20190124_202033949.jpg IMG_20190124_202051441.jpg
     
  2. GlockMeister

    GlockMeister Never Forget!
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  3. OnTheJob

    OnTheJob Well-Known Member

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    Maybe the price for MudBusters will come down now that you can build them for a 1/3 of the price. Nice job!
     
    alloutdoors, JTW, sharp and 3 others like this.
  4. CumminsPusher

    CumminsPusher The woods made me do it,yet again!
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  5. TimG

    TimG OLD SKOOL
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  6. dnjones161

    dnjones161 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys.

    @TimG I'd be interested to see how much of a difference they would make on the underside...I've never really paid attention to the bed bottom on the 1000-3. I'm sure it would change the mounting on the "front" piece a little, but honestly figuring the mounting out was easier than I thought it was going to be originally.

    I took it for a quick spin this morning and was able to find some water to splash through (ice to break through)- bed sides stayed completely clean. Looks like I've got just enough overhang to keep the mud off the bed sides/out of the door hinges at 10.75 inch width.
     
    O2bsmitty, sharp, TimG and 1 other person like this.
  7. TimG

    TimG OLD SKOOL
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  8. Smitty335

    Smitty335 Well-Known Member
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    That is slick! I like that way more than mud busters! But I'm stock width as well. Great job looks great1
     
  9. JTW

    JTW God's favorite member.
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  10. O2bsmitty

    O2bsmitty Well-Known Member

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    Very nicely detailed and very nicely done. Now does anyone know how I can save this to make it easier to find when I can get back to doing things? Lol
     
  11. O2bsmitty

    O2bsmitty Well-Known Member

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    Also 15$ for 2 pcs of plywood?? Might of been worth keeping the plywood. Lol
     
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  12. dnjones161

    dnjones161 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. I wasn't in the market for plywood is that cheap? Haha I didn't pay any attention.

    @JTW I'll be on the lookout for those. I wanted to ask if anyone had pictures of how they mounted up, but thought that might be crossing some kind of line since I wasn't buying.
     
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  13. JTW

    JTW God's favorite member.
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  14. Superthrill

    Superthrill Well-Known Member

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  15. O2bsmitty

    O2bsmitty Well-Known Member

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    It is for here in Illinois 1/4 plywood is 12$. Osb is 14$
     
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  16. JTW

    JTW God's favorite member.
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  17. dnjones161

    dnjones161 Well-Known Member

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    That might take some time to flatten out, but i bet it would work!

    I'm sure lowe's and home depot or whatever hardware store you have local could get ahold of some for you. Especially if you just needed a smaller piece.
     
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  18. dnjones161

    dnjones161 Well-Known Member

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    I'm fairly certain this was either 3/8 or 1/2 inch too. That's those Illinois taxes for you!

    @JTW I remain intrigued....o_O....

    Y'all gotta be careful tho, you already ruined the door bushing business, if we cut the fender flare people out folks are gonna stop making products for the Pioneer just to have forum members knock them off!

    That being said, I re-iterate that I had no photos or instructions from the Mud Busters or any other fender flare. Just an idea and a little time on my hands. Turned out too good and too cheap not to share. I have certainly reaped the benefits of other members detailed project info (back up lights, tire size info, etc).
     
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  19. JTW

    JTW God's favorite member.
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  20. dnjones161

    dnjones161 Well-Known Member

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    Oh I agree, but I also understand making the money while you can before someone else copies the idea (which inevitably happens with all good ideas). Get it while the gettins' good as they say!

    Drug companies do the same thing with brand name medications while they are still in patent. Of course everyone gets pissed at them too...
     
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