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Old Ironsides
Vendor
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Hello_Darkness
Well-Known Member
All current Honda powersports products (except scooters) use the same oil sump for the transmission and engine. Also not including P1K and Talon sub trans oil.
When you change the engine oil, the transmission is also drained.
When you change the engine oil, the transmission is also drained.
M
I just did my first oil change on my 2024 Pioneer 520. I'm 76 years young and have done my own oil changes on every vehicle, tractor, mower, and any oiled engine I've owned through the years. I can say changing the oil on this engine is as much of a pain in the ass as any engine I've ever done. For Honda designers to put the oil filter in such a hard-to-reach place is rediculous. I thought I was working on something designed in the USA or Germany.
lee
Village Idiot
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Hello_Darkness
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Well if you were also adjusting the valves like your suppose to at the first service it would've been much easier since the plastic panel would've been removed to access the engine.
M
Wrong, Walrus-breath! Checking valve clearances are first done @ 600 miles or 100 operating hours OR if noisy. This was my 100 mile initial oil change. Dontcha hate it when you find out you weren't right?
Hello_Darkness
Well-Known Member
I'm not gonna stoop to those levels and call you any names but sit down old man and let me learn you something.
Im not like some people on here who talk out of their ass about stuff they know nothing about. I've been repairing Honda products for 16 years and know my way around quite a few of them.
If youll take a look at the maintenance schedule for your machine ive provided below, its clearly shows that a valve clearance inspection/adjustment is due at the first 20 HRS or 100 MILES. So your machine was due for a valve clearance inspection/adjustment at that time.
So the next time you think your right and I'm wrong, maybe shut your f***ing mouth before you come at me for being incorrect.
Have a nice day!!
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GovtMule
NTC’s SoA, Chief Sarcasm Officer-Self Appointed
Lifetime Member
M
LOL! "I'm not going to stoop to call you any names"... but then you end it with "shut your f***ing mouth". Much better. At least I was kidding. Everyone knows walruses have great breath, so it was a compliment. Jeeez don't blow a gasket. Thanks for the correction. I misread the manual. You are right. I am wrong. Thanks. Still, seems like a very early point of use to be checking valves.
R
It is early to check valves, but thats why its preventative maintenance. They want valve inspected just incase the valve seats or stems have worn in more aggressively. Unfortunately every batch of materials is different and some wear in differently. It's rare I ever see them needing adjustment at the first service, but I do see it from time to time.
Side note, I think we all just need to have a beer and settle down a bit. The forums are to help one another out.
M
So, in order to get the piston to TDC, is the easiest way to have the rear wheels off the ground in order to turn them while in gear? Or, is there another way I'm missing?
Also, I think specs are 6 for intake & 9 s for exhaust. Any "logic" for any other setting?
Also, I think specs are 6 for intake & 9 s for exhaust. Any "logic" for any other setting?
R
There is a cap on back of engine held on by 3 10mm head bolts. Take the caps off and turn engine with a ratchet and socket. Also there a allen head plug I believe 6mm but may be a 5mm on side of engine just in front of battery box i think. Yes spec is .006" on IN and .009" on EX both + or - .001" I usually set to the high side of the spec to allow Valve seat and valve face to wear in slightly but truely anywhere in that range is perfectly fine as long as you set them on a room temp engine.
M
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