P1000 dual volt meter

[Jameshennigan]

I have dual battery set up with the tru isolator. I also installed the key on power harness which at the moment I have connected to my winch. I ordered a dual volt meter from Amazon and not sure how to wire it up. I also have a stinger, which now I have read is not needed, and a fuse block. Both are now installed yet. How do I wire up the volt meter with what I have? I have some wire that I got from work for the volt meter. But where can I get the wires / cables for the stinger and fuse block?

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Single ground to the gauge with a hot wire from each battery.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

The dual meter should have three prongs on the back. Run one wire from each side of your isolator to the the meter one for main one for aux. the third prong is for a grounded relay that should come with the volt meter. I know it sounds difficult but it’s prob easier to install the stinger and fuse box using the key on wire to control the fuse box. Then just hook winch up to fuse box. If you don’t you will be splicing that key on for everything you don’t hook up straight to battery. You can buy the cables on eBay. 6 awg with a 1/4 lug on one end and 5/16 on the other. Depends on size of terminals on fuse block and stinger.

 

[Jameshennigan]

The dual meter should have three prongs on the back. Run one wire from each side of your isolator to the the meter one for main one for aux. the third prong is for a grounded relay that should come with the volt meter. I know it sounds difficult but it’s prob easier to install the stinger and fuse box using the key on wire to control the fuse box. Then just hook winch up to fuse box. If you don’t you will be splicing that key on for everything you don’t hook up straight to battery. You can buy the cables on eBay. 6 awg with a 1/4 lug on one end and 5/16 on the other. Depends on size of terminals on fuse block and stinger.

Ok I was thinking I could go through the stinger and fuse block but had no idea about cable size and where to get them from. And the volt meter did not come with a grounded relay. I can use some of the wire I already have. Appreciate your help.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I ran everything through the fuse box. I have the volt meter that came with the true isolator and it came with a negative relay. The relay had four wires two green and a red and black. Black for ground red for key on or hot and one green to back of volt meter. The other green is extra. You can order the cables ready made or just buy the wire and lugs and make them. I just hammered the lugs and put the heat shrink to them. By using the the stinger to control the fuse box you have the option to put in a on/off/on switch later that will allow you to run everything key on or with key off.

 

[Showmecamo]

I ran everything through the fuse box. I have the volt meter that came with the true isolator and it came with a negative relay. The relay had four wires two green and a red and black. Black for ground red for key on or hot and one green to back of volt meter. The other green is extra. You can order the cables ready made or just buy the wire and lugs and make them. I just hammered the lugs and put the heat shrink to them. By using the the stinger to control the fuse box you have the option to put in a on/off/on switch later that will allow you to run everything key on or with key off.

Could use some help with my Pioneer dual battery system that I am trying to install. I have a Dual Volt Meters so I guess I will run a positive to each side of the Isolator and then ground them? if so, do I even need the relay that came with the Isolator?
My biggest problem is establishing my switch (on/off/on w/4 pegs) - provided I have the right switch! The top right peg is for the ground - the middle peg on the left side of switch is for incoming power from fuse box? Next, is the top peg on the right for backlighting on switch? Finally, what do I do with the bottom left peg? Does it feed down to the Stinger? Help is so appreciated!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Are you talking about 1dual volt meter or dual meters as in two. If you are taking about the true isolator and meter then You can hook the meter up that way and it will work but you don’t want that because it will be on all the time. The purpose of the neg relay is to create a switch to connect the ground only when key is on. As for the on off on. You need a seven pin switch.

 

[Showmecamo]

Are you talking about 1dual volt meter or dual meters as in two. If you are taking about the true isolator and meter then You can hook the meter up that way and it will work but you don’t want that because it will be on all the time. The purpose of the neg relay is to create a switch to connect the ground only when key is on. As for the on off on. You need a seven pin switch.
View attachment 229586

I am referring to two (2) volt meters. I guess I can still make the relay work? Using both green wires going to the "-" on each volt meter. It then says to connect the red wire to a switched ignition? Where should I gain this source?

The pic for the switch is great! Where can I get that switch? Name please?
Can "Power from 2nd battery" come from secondary fuse block or straight from 2nd battery?
Does the "output to the Stinger" go to one of the small posts on the Stinger with the other small post going to ground?
Does "Power from key on" come from factory fuse accessory (5th fuse down - 15 amp)?

As you can tell I am not real savvy about this and confusion has set in! Thanks for your patience and help!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

I’m not an electrician either but All the info is here on this site. That’s where I got the pic of the switch. To get key on power you have to tap into something or buy the key on harness from the club store on this site. I used the club harness and would recommend that. It plugs into the back of your 12v port an is nice and clean. If you don’t have a stinger and fuse block installed you will run the key on to the hot/red and the black to your ground. Then greens to meters.

The stinger and 2nd fuse box are ez once you have key on power. Make sure you have the cables and lugs and plenty of heat shrink to keep it all clean. My stinger has two big terminals and two small. The big ones are power in and out. Small ones are for key on power and a ground. Run a ground from your 2nd batt to your fuse box a hot from batt to stinger a hot wire from stinger to fuse box. Small ground from stinger to 2nd batt key on power to small terminal. The stinger is a big relay/switch that only powers the fuse box when key is on. Everything hooked to the fuse box will only work with key on. This is key on only wiring
The switch for on off on is a little dif a little more difficult but not that much. I did it with a 7 pin like the pic. I’ve read some use a ten. But it can prob be done with the one you have but I don’t know how. For the on off on you will need to run wire from both the ground and hot terminals of the second battery to the switch and one from the stinger to the switch this wire will go to where your key on was hooked. Then move your key on source/wire to the switch.
I hook everything up to my fuse box. The relays from the meters both controls for my winch. The cheap light bars I have I just replace the swiches and cut the inline fuses off and hook the hot and grounds from the relays to the fuse box. As for the switch I got a used 7 pin carling from eBay all I could find on OTR switches was a 10. Just make sure it’s a maintained switch and not a momentary one stays down the other doesn’t. Sort for the long winded reply but I know some of this stuff can seam a lot more difficult than it is. Have plenty of heat shrink tubing and tape. Use good wire and terminals.

 

[Showmecamo]

12v

I’m not an electrician either but All the info is here on this site. That’s where I got the pic of the switch. To get key on power you have to tap into something or buy the key on harness from the club store on this site. I used the club harness and would recommend that. It plugs into the back of your 12v port an is nice and clean. If you don’t have a stinger and fuse block installed you will run the key on to the hot/red and the black to your ground. Then greens to meters.

The stinger and 2nd fuse box are ez once you have key on power. Make sure you have the cables and lugs and plenty of heat shrink to keep it all clean. My stinger has two big terminals and two small. The big ones are power in and out. Small ones are for key on power and a ground. Run a ground from your 2nd batt to your fuse box a hot from batt to stinger a hot wire from stinger to fuse box. Small ground from stinger to 2nd batt key on power to small terminal. The stinger is a big relay/switch that only powers the fuse box when key is on. Everything hooked to the fuse box will only work with key on. This is key on only wiring
The switch for on off on is a little dif a little more difficult but not that much. I did it with a 7 pin like the pic. I’ve read some use a ten. But it can prob be done with the one you have but I don’t know how. For the on off on you will need to run wire from both the ground and hot terminals of the second battery to the switch and one from the stinger to the switch this wire will go to where your key on was hooked. Then move your key on source/wire to the switch.
I hook everything up to my fuse box. The relays from the meters both controls for my winch. The cheap light bars I have I just replace the swiches and cut the inline fuses off and hook the hot and grounds from the relays to the fuse box. As for the switch I got a used 7 pin carling from eBay all I could find on OTR switches was a 10. Just make sure it’s a maintained switch and not a momentary one stays down the other doesn’t. Sort for the long winded reply but I know some of this stuff can seam a lot more difficult than it is. Have plenty of heat shrink tubing and tape. Use good wire and terminals.

I’m not an electrician either but All the info is here on this site. That’s where I got the pic of the switch. To get key on power you have to tap into something or buy the key on harness from the club store on this site. I used the club harness and would recommend that. It plugs into the back of your 12v port an is nice and clean. If you don’t have a stinger and fuse block installed you will run the key on to the hot/red and the black to your ground. Then greens to meters.

The stinger and 2nd fuse box are ez once you have key on power. Make sure you have the cables and lugs and plenty of heat shrink to keep it all clean. My stinger has two big terminals and two small. The big ones are power in and out. Small ones are for key on power and a ground. Run a ground from your 2nd batt to your fuse box a hot from batt to stinger a hot wire from stinger to fuse box. Small ground from stinger to 2nd batt key on power to small terminal. The stinger is a big relay/switch that only powers the fuse box when key is on. Everything hooked to the fuse box will only work with key on. This is key on only wiring
The switch for on off on is a little dif a little more difficult but not that much. I did it with a 7 pin like the pic. I’ve read some use a ten. But it can prob be done with the one you have but I don’t know how. For the on off on you will need to run wire from both the ground and hot terminals of the second battery to the switch and one from the stinger to the switch this wire will go to where your key on was hooked. Then move your key on source/wire to the switch.
I hook everything up to my fuse box. The relays from the meters both controls for my winch. The cheap light bars I have I just replace the swiches and cut the inline fuses off and hook the hot and grounds from the relays to the fuse box. As for the switch I got a used 7 pin carling from eBay all I could find on OTR switches was a 10. Just make sure it’s a maintained switch and not a momentary one stays down the other doesn’t. Sort for the long winded reply but I know some of this stuff can seam a lot more difficult than it is. Have plenty of heat shrink tubing and tape. Use good wire and terminals.

 

[Showmecamo]

Sorry..........having trouble with my posting!

I am using the Stinger Relay and Fuse Box with 14 gauge for accessories and switches. Also using 6 gauge for batteries and Stinger.
I do not mind buying the harness from the Club Store, but do I need it since I am using the Stinger and fuse box??
Are you saying run the hot wire from the factory fuse box (5th one down-accessory) up to the ON/OFF/ON 7 pin switch?? Then go from the switch down to the Stinger small post??
Also, since I do have the Stinger and fuse box; do I run the red/hot from the relay (volt meter relay) to the fuse box??

Do not mind at all the long answers...........I need them as you can tell!!! Thanks!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

No if you already have key on power you don’t need the harness. I just didn’t want to tap wires. I’m not sure which wire to tap because I didn’t go that rout but you can search and found out here pretty ez. Once you have the key on source it will go to the switch then another wire to the stinger. The switch controls the stinger. It gets its power from either the key on or 2nd battery depending on its position. The stinger sends power to the fuse box. Yes. I hooked relay from meter up to fuse box. I have a blue sea 6 that has a ground bus so I hooked both to it. Remember you will also need a hot from second battery and ground to go to switch. Just one lead from switch to stinger. I’m sure there are other ways to do this. This is just how I did it.

 

[Showmecamo]

No if you already have key on power you don’t need the harness. I just didn’t want to tap wires. I’m not sure which wire to tap because I didn’t go that rout but you can search and found out here pretty ez. Once you have the key on source it will go to the switch then another wire to the stinger. The switch controls the stinger. It gets its power from either the key on or 2nd battery depending on its position. The stinger sends power to the fuse box. Yes. I hooked relay from meter up to fuse box. I have a blue sea 6 that has a ground bus so I hooked both to it. Remember you will also need a hot from second battery and ground to go to switch. Just one lead from switch to stinger. I’m sure there are other ways to do this. This is just how I did it.

Great information!!!! This is helpful more than you know. I THINK

 

[Showmecamo]

Great information!!!! This is helpful more than you know. I THINK I am starting to put some of the pieces to this puzzle together. Unfortunately I have to head out of town for a while, but will resume soon. I may have a few more questions in a week or so! I have some work to do to get this machine ready for hunting season! I can't thank you enough!!!!

 

[Showmecamo]

Sorry...one more question. As far as the switch, you mention to "remember you will also need a hot from second battery and ground to go to switch." Can I pull the hot and ground from the sea fuse box to feed the switch OR do I need to pull this directly from the second battery??
Many thanks!!!!

 

[Hillbillytnt]

For the on off on switch they will need to come from the battery. The fuse box won’t have any power until the switch tells the relay to make the connection and send power to the fuse box. The switch takes power from either the key on or the battery depending on the position of the switch and sends it to the stinger. That opens the relay and sends power to the fuse box. The stinger is basically a big switch that when powered sends power to the fuse box.

 

[Showmecamo]

For the on off on switch they will need to come from the battery. The fuse box won’t have any power until the switch tells the relay to make the connection and send power to the fuse box. The switch takes power from either the key on or the battery depending on the position of the switch and sends it to the stinger. That opens the relay and sends power to the fuse box. The stinger is basically a big switch that when powered sends power to the fuse box.

Makes sense!!! Many, many thanks and I appreciate your patience! I have plenty of work to do!

 

[tjoreo]

I have a single gauge with the dual volt meter. I was kind of in a hurry to get mine wired up and didn't put the relay in for the gauge. I hooked up the main battery to the cigarette lighter and only comes on with key. I hooked the aux up the second battery but the gauge is always on. I figured it would take a while for it to drain the battery so I just left it this way. It gives me an excuse to go for a ride because I need to charge the secondary battery.

 

[Jameshennigan]

The dual meter should have three prongs on the back. Run one wire from each side of your isolator to the the meter one for main one for aux. the third prong is for a grounded relay that should come with the volt meter. I know it sounds difficult but it’s prob easier to install the stinger and fuse box using the key on wire to control the fuse box. Then just hook winch up to fuse box. If you don’t you will be splicing that key on for everything you don’t hook up straight to battery. You can buy the cables on eBay. 6 awg with a 1/4 lug on one end and 5/16 on the other. Depends on size of terminals on fuse block and stinger.

I have the Mictuning LED dual volt meter. so i hooked both positives to the tru isolator, and the ground wire went to the main battery neg. It works, but stays on all the time. What do i need to do? I though it would only come on when they isolator was on.

 

[CID]

I have the Mictuning LED dual volt meter. so i hooked both positives to the tru isolator, and the ground wire went to the main battery neg. It works, but stays on all the time. What do i need to do? I though it would only come on when they isolator was on.

For most accessories, we switch the Hot side of the circuit but with the dual VM we switch the Ground side and why the True Isolator comes with a relay, to control that ground. If you don't want to screw with the relay, you can put s simple toggle switch on the VM's ground lead to 'off' the VM.