P1000 Dualing Batteries

[Robobrainiac]

I am interested in a dual battery setup. I want to be able to listen to music over extended periods of time while working with the machine off. My goal at this point is swamp donkey radio and single 10" sub with amp. I don't mind needing a battery tender to keep the battery going between charges. So my thought process is a large deep cycle battery under the driver seat.

Is the larger battery better or is a good 2nd battery under the hood just as good?

If I run the larger battery under the seat should I run a positive cable to under the hood and ground the larger battery at the frame under the seat or should I run positive and ground both back to under the hood?

 

[Hondasxs]

5/30 club member I see.. lol.

A larger battery under the seat sounds like your choice. This will give you more time and bang.

I recommend a isolator with the positive to the primary and the ground to the frame to complete the best "loop" off the stator.

 

[Robobrainiac]

5/30 club member I see.. lol.

A larger battery under the seat sounds like your choice. This will give you more time and bang.

I recommend a isolator with the positive to the primary and the ground to the frame to complete the best "loop" off the stator.

I have to ask what is a 5/30 member?

I thought the larger battery would be a good choice. If a small under hood battery could give me the same run time I would be down with that. If the battery goes under the seat I have to find a way to mount a sub overhead. Otherwise the sub would be under the seat.

 

[CID]

I think it's all about the amp hour capacity, a simple comparison will tell you what to expect.

 

[Hondasxs]

Ride for 5 minutes... party for 30. 5/30 club.
Hahaha.

Ya, your looking for high AH rating.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[bumperm]

Just installed a 20 amp hour battery with True charging system: True UTV-SBI-CM UTV Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit - TrueAm Dual Battery Isolator System

A couple of things to consider in your plan and under seat vs hood: First consider the current draw of your stereo rig. Then divide that into one half of the batteries amp hour capacity to arrive at a max runtime of the system without charging or running the engine. Lead acid batteries don't want to be discharged below 50% of their capacity to reach a reasonable service life, keeping discharge to only 20% is really optimal, but 50% is okay. Also, battery amp hour capacity is computed at a 10 hour rate, so if using a fair amount of current and figuring 1/2 max discharge, a 20 AH battery would last for 2.5 hours if drawing 2 amps and being reasonably kind to the battery.

Under the hood probably has a temperature advantage for battery environment as well, though I haven't measured the temps in either location, I'm betting under the seat is way hotter.

 

[Robobrainiac]

Ride for 5 minutes... party for 30. 5/30 club.
Hahaha.

Ya, your looking for high AH rating.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

LOL I get it now!

 

[Wellzy]

I am interested in a dual battery setup. I want to be able to listen to music over extended periods of time while working with the machine off. My goal at this point is swamp donkey radio and single 10" sub with amp. I don't mind needing a battery tender to keep the battery going between charges. So my thought process is a large deep cycle battery under the driver seat.

Is the larger battery better or is a good 2nd battery under the hood just as good?

If I run the larger battery under the seat should I run a positive cable to under the hood and ground the larger battery at the frame under the seat or should I run positive and ground both back to under the hood?

I have a SwampDonkey mounted in my P15. My question is, with the enclosed plastic box they are made in, how do you add a sub? I would possibly do this if it would not look like I carved up my system to get wires in and out of it. Thanks.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I have a SwampDonkey mounted in my P15. My question is, with the enclosed plastic box they are made in, how do you add a sub? I would possibly do this if it would not look like I carved up my system to get wires in and out of it. Thanks.

I haven't made any official picks yet because my goal is to get the swamp donkey and then do some measuring to see what I can fit but the goal is something like this directly overhead

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X12 R2 Shallow Prime Single 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure: Car Electronics

From what I have seen the back should be accessible on the swamp donkey to gain access to what should be some RCA outputs to run to an amp for the sub.

 

[Bobrhino]

Just installed a 20 amp hour battery with True charging system: True UTV-SBI-CM UTV Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit - TrueAm Dual Battery Isolator System

A couple of things to consider in your plan and under seat vs hood: First consider the current draw of your stereo rig. Then divide that into one half of the batteries amp hour capacity to arrive at a max runtime of the system without charging or running the engine. Lead acid batteries don't want to be discharged below 50% of their capacity to reach a reasonable service life, keeping discharge to only 20% is really optimal, but 50% is okay. Also, battery amp hour capacity is computed at a 10 hour rate, so if using a fair amount of current and figuring 1/2 max discharge, a 20 AH battery would last for 2.5 hours if drawing 2 amps and being reasonably kind to the battery.

Under the hood probably has a temperature advantage for battery environment as well, though I haven't measured the temps in either location, I'm betting under the seat is way hotter.

Also, these isolators are available for lithium if you plan on converting to lithium iron phosphate batteries. There’s now a number of powersports battery companies that seem pretty reputable with some decent design, pricing and customer service. Lightweight and performance does equal cost though.

 

[bumperm]

Also, these isolators are available for lithium if you plan on converting to lithium iron phosphate batteries. There’s now a number of powersports battery companies that seem pretty reputable with some decent design, pricing and customer service. Lightweight and performance does equal cost though.

True, though there are some gentle concerns. LiFePO4 batteries have a little less power density than Lithium Ion, but they are much safer in terms of unwanted camp fires. Power density is more than Pb (lead acid) and you can discharge they way down with no damage. I.e. were a Pb battery's voltage tapers slowly down to the point it becomes unusable, a lithium battery tapers more gently, holding usable voltage to the point it just plumits, like stepping off a cliff, so to speak.

With most all lithium multi-cell batteries, cell voltage balance, over current protection etc. are of concern, so the battery needs to have a BMS (battery management system) to protect the battery from bad things happening. A vehicle charging system that is engineered for Pb batteries can be compatible with LiFePO4 types, and True makes one of their dual battery UTV charging systems specifically for Lithium (I have no experience with it): UTV Lithium Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit True UTV-SBI-LCM - TrueAm

 

[Bobrhino]

Very good: “much safer in terms of unwanted camp fires.”