P1000 First oil change - what a pain in the rear

[Smitty335]

Oh man this thread reminds me of when I went from my Tacoma to the Frontier. The taco was best oil change ever. The even routed the filter to up top where it was really accessible with a drip catch. Brilliant. The Fronty was a b**** and required removing skid pan, but it still got everywhere. Now I have a Sierra, and I have heard they are worse yet (just finished my last free change). I'll be adding a pioneer this spring, sounds like more fun...

The main thing to remember is it takes 10 & 12 MM sockets, if you think you need a 14 MM, your at the wrong drain plug, that's the sub transmission drain.

 

[bumperm]

I put the rear wheels on ramps, then hoisted the front end up with a "Harbor Freight" overhead mounted winch I put in my RV garage (reinforced the ceiling beams during construction and installed a steel I-beam so the hoist runs on a track). Worth the effort as now it's easy to remove what passes for a factory skid plate on the SE. Probably takes no more than 15 minutes to R&R the skid plate (the second time!). No mess made during first service.

All the stock Honda skid plate fasteners go into threads. Would have to work at it to get one cross threaded or stripped. If one got boogered, drill out and replace with rivet nut or weld nut.

 

[Wellzy]

I put the rear wheels on ramps, then hoisted the front end up with a "Harbor Freight" overhead mounted winch I put in my RV garage (reinforced the ceiling beams during construction and installed a steel I-beam so the hoist runs on a track). Worth the effort as now it's easy to remove what passes for a factory skid plate on the SE. Probably takes no more than 15 minutes to R&R the skid plate (the second time!). No mess made during first service.

All the stock Honda skid plate fasteners go into threads. Would have to work at it to get one cross threaded or stripped. If one got boogered, drill out and replace with rivet nut or weld nut.

I had considered this type of assistance as well. I asked good ole' Santa for a set of plastic ramps and he delivered. I'm planning on doing the same with the rear wheels backed onto the ramps, and lifting the front end with my motorcycle/ATV jack to level it out (jack stands in use of course). I picture this to be the bees knees, I can just crawl around under there while stock, but to add 8 or so inches will really help. I'll add pic and update when this next change is done.

 

[sheamus]

Yeah once off warranty, if you use synthetic, you can likely get a lot more miles per change. There are places you can send your used oil to, and they will evaluate how much life was left in it. So if you are changing at X miles, and there is 40% life left, you could likely safely extend your changes 25-30% safely. Just make sure you do that after the warranty is up, if you ever had a claim you would want to be able to prove you were following their guidelines.

Pro Tip for Canadians: CanadianTire puts a different synthetic oil 40% off every couple weeks. Usually amounts to each brand being on sale 2-4 times a year. If you create an account on their website, you can sign up for sale alerts on specific products. I pick the brand I am going to go with for my vehicles, and put a sale alert on. When it is on sale I buy a years worth of changes. So I am always getting my synthetic for 40% off.

 

[Coeus]

Thanks for the list of issues! Definitely add that to my list when I get around to this project!

This is on my list for this weekend

 

[P1K5Dave]

I'm usually a gentle driver so, after 6,000 miles, I've have decided to do 1500 mile oil changes instead of 1200. Knowing Honda's Africa Twin uses a 1000 cc engine with a DCT option, I wondered what their maintenance schedule is for them. Imagine my surprise to learn Honda recommends 8,000 mile oil changes. That's a YUGE difference. (yes, we're ~1000 lbs. heavier) And they only hold ~4.4 liters (4.6 qts)

I've been considering stretching my intervals out longer as well. I've been running full synthetic Rotella T6 and I think it's probably crazy changing it out that frequently. Just by the eye test, my oil looks really clean when it comes out.

Probably the biggest factor in the frequency vs. the Africa Twin is the dust we ride in? But isn't the Africa an on/off road bike?

I should send some in for testing on the next change, think I'll do that...

 

[CID]

I've been considering stretching my intervals out longer as well. I've been running full synthetic Rotella T6 and I think it's probably crazy changing it out that frequently. Just by the eye test, my oil looks really clean when it comes out.

Probably the biggest factor in the frequency vs. the Africa Twin is the dust we ride in? But isn't the Africa an on/off road bike?

I should send some in for testing on the next change, think I'll do that...

Yep, the Africa Twin is an on/off road bike but few of them see many dirt miles, much like the giant BMW GS1200 - much better marketing than 'dirt bike'.

Getting the oil analyzed seems like the best answer to the question.

 

[IngoTheBarbarian]

Yep, the Africa Twin is an on/off road bike but few of them see many dirt miles, much like the giant BMW GS1200 - much better marketing than 'dirt bike'.

Getting the oil analyzed seems like the best answer to the question.

Africa Twin videos pop up on my Instagram feed all the time. There are some guys out there that make it look like magic flying off of huge drops and skidding around corners. Makes me want one and I'm not a motorcycle guy.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Wellzy]

I'm ready for yet another, my 5th oil change at 4,800 soon. I will be using my new ramps, to back the rear wheels onto, then using my cycle lift to raise the front until level. This will give me a lot more room for getting the skids off. I sill say spend the extra minutes to remove it because it is so much handier to have them off. And I finally used the $50 gift card I was given at the time of purchase. That $50 bought most of a $56 air filter!

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Africa Twin videos pop up on my Instagram feed all the time. There are some guys out there that make it look like magic flying off of huge drops and skidding around corners. Makes me want one and I'm not a motorcycle guy.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I am a MC guy and almost bought one. CFO reminded me of my current un ridden remuda.

 

[Bighat]

Here's the best price I've found on the Honda synthetic and because they have free shipping. Pro Honda HP4S Synthetic 4-Stroke Motor Oil

 

[Bighat]

Manufactures will not suggest extending the service life of the oil. Even if using synthetic. I would love to see someone do an oil test and post the results. I have to do mine right now because it's still under warranty.

 

[Wellzy]

I agree, that after the factory recommended interval, the oil comes out NOT golden but NOT black, its a maple syrup or darker but looks like it has a lot of life still in it. Instead of 1,200 miles, I would like to see 2,000. I just don't get it, nothing I have EVER owned has to have 7ish quarts of oil drained every 1,200 miles.

 

[trigger]

I saw studies 20+ yrs ago that showed the viscosity of oil was still adequate after 20k miles. I run full synthetic in my commuter car but change it every 6k due to warranty. My mechanic tells his cronies to "save that oil bc I'm putting it in my car". Changing the filter is more important than anything.

 

[bumperm]

I saw studies 20+ yrs ago that showed the viscosity of oil was still adequate after 20k miles. I run full synthetic in my commuter car but change it every 6k due to warranty. My mechanic tells his cronies to "save that oil bc I'm putting it in my car". Changing the filter is more important than anything.

Sort of related, and perhaps useful info. On my Kubota tractor, the initial hydrostatic filter change is sooner than the fluid change. To allow the filter to be swapped out with no mess, someone more clever than I, came up with the idea of using a shop-vac with reducer/adapter fashioned to fit in the filler hole. This provides negative pressure and suction so the filter at the bottom of the tractor can be swapped with the loss of an ounce or so of fluid.

 

[Wellzy]

So I just completed a slightly overdue 4,800 service at 5,000 miles.

Again I removed the skid, I won't do this without that easy step to reduce the mess and get a good look at the underside. Once the engine/tranny had been drained I was adding the new 10w-40 GN4. I got close to the 6 quarts and while adding, then adding and checking I got a little carried away and poured in too much. I was using a gallon jug so I have to look at a mark on the side window that I made with a marker, and I went past my mark for the 6.1 quarts. I was concerned about over filling so I did EXACTLY what the owners manual said.

I started it and let it run 5 minutes using a timer. I let it sit 3 minutes using a time and pulled the dipstick, wiped it off and set it back on the hole. Pulled it out and the line was dead on the full mark. I guess it's okay then.

I had drained the sub transmission last year and sometimes I believe in "might as well" so I drained it this time. My Pioneer as I have stated is a road toad so I don't know if it had been in 4wd since last drain and fill. When I drained it I swear it was new, clean and light gold. I will set this back to only every other year from now on.

Going along with that logic, I did not drain the Royal Purple from the front diff, but I did do the rear as it is always used. That looked a little dirty and I'm glad I did it.

I removed and replaced the air filter which was still the original one, also pretty clean as it came out. I may just do this every 5,000 as my road riding is not getting it dirty.

For this service I used my plastic ramps on the front wheels to get under the machine for removing the skid, but for draining I lowered it level off the ramps. Then pulled it back up to replace the skid.

For the record, I still swear like a sailor when taking off the oil filter covers, reaching in there and getting those replaced, so awkward.

 

[Neohio]

For the record, I still swear like a sailor when taking off the filter covers, reaching in there and getting those replaced, so awkward.

Spend the extra 6 minutes it takes to remove the back of the front seat. 5 10mm bolts and access to the air filter housing is a dream.

 

[Wellzy]

Spend the extra 6 minutes it takes to remove the back of the front seat. 5 10mm bolts and access to the air filter housing is a dream.

Thank you for the tip, I was referring to the oil filter covers, but the air filter could be easier too. I did spend most of the time in the front seat on my knees facing backwards to access the allen screws. Taking off the seat back is a great tip!