P1000 Frame crossmember bent

Firemedic530

Firemedic530

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I saw in @ToddACimer post about his bent crossmember and his adding an additional brace. I pulled my skids to get ready for my trip to royal blue in a few days and found mine were also bent/bowed. I used my truck as an anchor and my lift to bow them back. I have 1/2" uhmw skid plate covering the entire bottom similar to his 3/8". I don't have any impressive stories or pictures of his stump escapade to go with it either. I can't recall being hung up on anything. I'm wondering if alot of guys are seeing this same issue?
I have some 1" square SS tubing leftover as well as 1" schedule 40 black pipe, but the clearances under the engine are tight for additional bracing.

I'm looking for ideas and this place is the greatest for that.
I'll be checking mine when I get back from Royal blue and see how bad it looks again.

20180827 094651 20180826 105046 20180826 105220
 
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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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I have about 1100 miles on mine and mine are bent a little more than yours were, I have taken quite a few hard trails and while I try NOT to beat on the undercarriage it takes hits. My skid plate was able to bow up so much it came out from under the cup washers on the rear portion of the main piece.

I am going to try to bend them back and weld a ¼" thick flatbar on the bottom of them.
If that fails I will make some additional cross members to bolt into place.
Thats my nighttime project for this week.
 
ToddACimer

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I've been thinking about this a lot, I'm not sure how to fix it yet. I think 1.5" wide 1/4" steel welded to the bottom of the crossmembers and the full length would be an improvement but I'm leaning towards 3/16" aluminum spanning from the front engine crossmember to the rear engine crossmember and bolting it in place. It would pretty much be a 26" wide by 24" long aluminum skid plate to fit above my UHMW plate. This would provide support to tie the 2 crossmembers together but leave the bottom of the machine flush with the square tube frame rails. It would require all the service and vent holes to be cut in it.
 
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Firemedic530

Firemedic530

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I was thinking about 3/4" schedule 40 pipe welded into the bottom of the two engine cross members to basically make them solid. The 1" I have would stick out below the frame rails. Will see how bad it is after royal blue.
 
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Cuoutdoors

Cuoutdoors

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Can you weld something into the channel of the cross member?

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ToddACimer

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Can you weld something into the channel of the cross member?

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I think you could but I personally hate welding upside down and it would never be sealed so it would be prone to rust. In the end I'd probably worry about it too much and not be happy. I'd rather bolt together 2 fully painted steel parts than know I've created an uncoated trap for corrosion
 
BWAF

BWAF

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Bolt in some 1" channel iron just notch ends
I think you could but I personally hate welding upside down and it would never be sealed so it would be prone to rust. In the end I'd probably worry about it too much and not be happy. I'd rather bolt together 2 fully painted steel parts than know I've created an uncoated trap for corrosion

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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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I've been thinking about this a lot, I'm not sure how to fix it yet. I think 1.5" wide 1/4" steel welded to the bottom of the crossmembers and the full length would be an improvement but I'm leaning towards 3/16" aluminum spanning from the front engine crossmember to the rear engine crossmember and bolting it in place. It would pretty much be a 26" wide by 24" long aluminum skid plate to fit above my UHMW plate. This would provide support to tie the 2 crossmembers together but leave the bottom of the machine flush with the square tube frame rails. It would require all the service and vent holes to be cut in it.
I am picking up a sheet of Aluminum for that purpose from another member. Left that bit out.
 
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Smitty335

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I was thinking about 3/4" schedule 40 pipe welded into the bottom of the two engine cross members to basically make them solid. The 1" I have would stick out below the frame rails. Will see how bad it is after royal blue.
I would go SCH 80.
 
Firemedic530

Firemedic530

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I would go SCH 80.
I agree, I have some 40 just to see if it will fit when I get back. I would prefer to weld in schedule 80 pipe because it will outlast the rest of the metal. I kind of like the other guys idea with aluminum because I have enough of that sitting around also. I'm curious if it will stop the bending though.
 
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Smitty335

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I saw in @ToddACimer post about his bent crossmember and his adding an additional brace. I pulled my skids to get ready for my trip to royal blue in a few days and found mine were also bent/bowed. I used my truck as an anchor and my lift to bow them back. I have 1/2" uhmw skid plate covering the entire bottom similar to his 3/8". I don't have any impressive stories or pictures of his stump escapade to go with it either. I can't recall being hung up on anything. I'm wondering if alot of guys are seeing this same issue?
I have some 1" square SS tubing leftover as well as 1" schedule 40 black pipe, but the clearances under the engine are tight for additional bracing.

I'm looking for ideas and this place is the greatest for that.
I'll be checking mine when I get back from Royal blue and see how bad it looks again.

View attachment 85155 View attachment 85156 View attachment 85157
What skids are you running? Was this done with factory skid film?
 
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ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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What skids are you running? Was this done with factory skid film?

Full 3/8" UHMW. For reference, my steel skid under the front diff is dented, my RD front bumper lasted one ride before it was twisted and the front panel was caved in, my rock rails are dented down both sides. I like playing on rocks, I'm not going to say Honda didn't do a good job because the machine flat out works and it's fun. This crossmember issue will probably show up on very few machines but if you're riding the belly of the machine it's going to be a problem.
 
Smitty335

Smitty335

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Full 3/8" UHMW. For reference, my steel skid under the front diff is dented, my RD front bumper lasted one ride before it was twisted and the front panel was caved in, my rock rails are dented down both sides. I like playing on rocks, I'm not going to say Honda didn't do a good job because the machine flat out works and it's fun. This crossmember issue will probably show up on very few machines but if you're riding the belly of the machine it's going to be a problem.
I'm running 1/2 inch skids and usually use the belly while crossing logs, thanks for the heads up!
 
Firemedic530

Firemedic530

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Mine are 1/2" uhmw and I was surprised by the bending. I guess I'm harder on it than I thought.
 
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BWAF

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Drill and chamfer skid plate bolts 3/4 × 3/4 aluminum in with 3/8 flat head bolts with lock nuts

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Smitty335

Smitty335

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Drill and chamfer skid plate bolts 3/4 × 3/4 aluminum in with 3/8 flat head bolts with lock nuts

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
I was thinking more like 3/4 X 2 and moving them around for clearance?
 
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