P1000 Help With Dual Voltmeters

J

JAL

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Now that I have my True Smart Isolator and Second Battery installed I want to install the dual voltmeter. As I understand it, I use the wire from my tap into the aux fuse box to trigger the relay which closes and grounds the dual voltmeter. This "ignition on ground" prevents the voltmeters from drawing down the battery when the ignition is off. So if I just turn on the ignition without starting the engine, the batteries should be isolated and I can read the voltage from the two batteries. Is this correct? And then when I start the engine, the isolator should close and the voltages should be similar across both batteries. Is this correct?

OR should I install a simple three position dual voltmeter?
1) Aux Voltage
2) Off
3) Main Voltage

I have both.

Jeff
 
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Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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Correct it will come on with the key and give you two readings. When you first start it up the it takes a second for the isolator to open up start charging the second.
 
J

JAL

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Success

Hooray!
 
J

JAL

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Did you find an ignition operated ground, or is it always on
Hi Cody.... I did use a tap to tap into an ignition wire coming off the fuse box. As I recall, the ignition tap powers a small relay that grounds the dual voltmeter so that the voltmeter is only on when the ignition is on.
 
M

mdmjrm

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I run dual volt meters direct to the batteries. They are on and illuminated 100% of the time and I've gone weeks without them pulling either battery down. People telling me my SxS is on at night gets a little old but I like being able to see that my maintainer is working too. doesn't sound like your preferred path but I don't think the volt meter draws enough amperage to make a difference
 
bumperm

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I run dual volt meters direct to the batteries. They are on and illuminated 100% of the time and I've gone weeks without them pulling either battery down. People telling me my SxS is on at night gets a little old but I like being able to see that my maintainer is working too. doesn't sound like your preferred path but I don't think the volt meter draws enough amperage to make a difference
I measured the current draw of the round dual volt meter that came with

True UTV-SBI-CM UTV Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit​

With both sides of the voltmeter on, the current draw was 2.4 ma. With just one side connected it was 1.5 ma. At 2.4 ma, (or 0.0024 amps), it would take 416 hours (17.36 days) to draw the equivalent of one amp hour. Not a huge amount, but arguably enough of a draw (when coupled to the normal approximate 5% loss per month) that you'd want a trickle charger hooked up for any longer periods of disuse. I plan on switching ground to the meters with the keyswitch. I may add a small push button to allow reading batteries without turning key on.
 
Hillbillytnt

Hillbillytnt

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I measured the current draw of the round dual volt meter that came with

True UTV-SBI-CM UTV Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit​

With both sides of the voltmeter on, the current draw was 2.4 ma. With just one side connected it was 1.5 ma. At 2.4 ma, (or 0.0024 amps), it would take 416 hours (17.36 days) to draw the equivalent of one amp hour. Not a huge amount, but arguably enough of a draw (when coupled to the normal approximate 5% loss per month) that you'd want a trickle charger hooked up for any longer periods of disuse. I plan on switching ground to the meters with the keyswitch. I may add a small push button to allow reading batteries without turning key on.
I have an on off on switch I use as a master to control my 2nd fuse box. I ran the hot and ground for the volt meter relay through the fuse box so the meter lights up whenever the fuse box is hot.
 
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Deadidave43

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Ok my problem is voltmeter says on when ignition switch is off. Unless I disconnect to ground from the volt meter.
 
WagginTail

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Ok my problem is voltmeter says on when ignition switch is off. Unless I disconnect to ground from the volt meter.
Put on switch on the ground wire from the volt meter
 
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Remington

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Ok my problem is voltmeter says on when ignition switch is off. Unless I disconnect to ground from the volt meter.
You need a relay wired in Like Snuff said. Did u search relays?
again, search found this…post #3
 
bumperm

bumperm

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The "normal" way to do this is to use a switched ground, typically switched by a relay that is triggered by "key on" voltage. This applies ground to the meter when the key is on. Such a relay is often included with the True battery isolator. I wanted to be able to read both battery voltages without turning on the key (loading the ignition side), so installed a little push button under my voltmeter to apply a ground when the button is pushed, that way I can check voltages without turning on the key.

20211221 215040
 
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CID

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The "normal" way to do this is to use a switched ground, typically switched by a relay that is triggered by "key on" voltage. This applies ground to the meter when the key is on. Such a relay is often included with the True battery isolator. I wanted to be able to read both battery voltages without turning on the key (loading the ignition side), so installed a little push button under my voltmeter to apply a ground when the button is pushed, that way I can check voltages without turning on the key.

View attachment 353303
Like you, I wanted to be able to check the battery voltage without 'key on' load so I wired the single battery VM to operate with a dash mounted toggle switch (you chose momentary) and 'key on'. Now that I've added the second battery, I'll use the second True Isolator Kit relay ground wire as a toggle switched ground to turn the VM on without the key.

The True relay has two green/white leads (both are switched Ground), one goes to the dual VM and the other will go through my dash mounted toggle switch to Ground.
1662929840418
 
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