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How to Quiet Down the Click During Shifts

Cobweb

Cobweb

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Mar 2, 2019
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  1. Talon R
I've read a reference or two on here about this, but thought I would add a specific topic.

After running the standard Honda GN-4 oil in the Sub-Trans for 1,700 miles, I switched to a full synthetic (not mentioning brand to avoid another oil debate). I was amazed how much quieter the shifts were. The click is still there, but probably 80% reduced.

Another reference, I was already running full synthetic in the engine and DCT, but this had no affect on the shifting sound.

Just thought I'd pass this along as it really surprised me.
 
CrosbyTalon

CrosbyTalon

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Oct 7, 2020
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  1. Talon X
I was told by dealer to NOT use full syn because the clutches would start to stick after a few hundred miles. On my unit the shifting noise has really tamed down since the first 150miles have been put on it.
 
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CID

CID

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  1. Talon R
I've read a reference or two on here about this, but thought I would add a specific topic.

After running the standard Honda GN-4 oil in the Sub-Trans for 1,700 miles, I switched to a full synthetic (not mentioning brand to avoid another oil debate). I was amazed how much quieter the shifts were. The click is still there, but probably 80% reduced.

Another reference, I was already running full synthetic in the engine and DCT, but this had no affect on the shifting sound.

Just thought I'd pass this along as it really surprised me.
Hmmm, curious. I'm new to SxSs and haven't visualized the power transfer route from the crankshaft to the driveline yet but I didn't think anything in the substrans moved during normal shifting? 🤔 Anything that quiets mechanical noise should mean a reduction in wear.
 
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CrosbyTalon

CrosbyTalon

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  1. Talon X
Hmmm, curious. I'm new to SxSs and haven't visualized the power transfer route from the crankshaft to the driveline yet but I didn't think anything in the substrans moved during normal shifting? 🤔 Anything that quiets mechanical noise should mean a reduction in wear.

I was referring to your full synthetic in the engine/DCT. That Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT) uses the standard GN4 oil and my dealer said not to switch to full synthetic.
 
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Cobweb

Cobweb

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Mar 2, 2019
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Hexi Hollow
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  1. Talon R
I was told by dealer to NOT use full syn because the clutches would start to stick after a few hundred miles. On my unit the shifting noise has really tamed down since the first 150miles have been put on it.

I rarely trust what a dealer tells me. I've been led down the wrong road too many times. Anyone else believe this?
 
Todd627

Todd627

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Maybe @HondaTech could clear this up....
 
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CrosbyTalon

CrosbyTalon

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  1. Talon X
I am no expert as I came from a belt drive machine prior to my Talon, but I had to listen to my dealer for warranty reasons, I can't imagine they would refer me to a cheaper oil on purpose.
 
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IDIOT

IDIOT

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Nov 30, 2018
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I have been running full syn since my first oil change after break in (2000 miles) with no issues. Any shifting sounds should be originating from the transmission not the sub trans. I thought the clicking sound heard when it shifts was the shift solenoid not the tranny.
 
CrosbyTalon

CrosbyTalon

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  1. Talon X
I switched to amsoil full synthetic in my final drive front and rear and it seems like I am getting some gear clatter now? anyone else notice this? When I click in I-4wd it seems to go away?
 
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SLOWPOKE693

SLOWPOKE693

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I want to switch my Talon over to full synthetic everything before I start racing. What would I need for the engine side of things to keep the clutches happy?
 
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CID

CID

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I want to switch my Talon over to full synthetic everything before I start racing. What would I need for the engine side of things to keep the clutches happy?
You want an API SG or higher (per the manual), JASO - MA oil. The rating is in a ~1" circle on the bottle. What you don't want is 'energy conserving' printed in that same 1" circle, those ratings imply friction modifier packages to make the oil slipperier which is what causes clutches to slip. Heavier weight oils will rarely have those packages like 10w-40 or 15w-50 (if you don't want to run motorcycle specific oils which won't have the friction modifiers).

I used Mobil 1 15w-50 Full synthetic automotive oil in my dual sport for decades with no problems but it only had 35 HP (less torque to slip clutch).

Not sure why my 233 pixel photo turned into a 150 pixel photo. 🤔

i-TVTHbFv-Th.jpg
 
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Montecresto

Montecresto

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I've read a reference or two on here about this, but thought I would add a specific topic.

After running the standard Honda GN-4 oil in the Sub-Trans for 1,700 miles, I switched to a full synthetic (not mentioning brand to avoid another oil debate). I was amazed how much quieter the shifts were. The click is still there, but probably 80% reduced.

Another reference, I was already running full synthetic in the engine and DCT, but this had no affect on the shifting sound.

Just thought I'd pass this along as it really surprised me.
I keep my foot in the gas for very smooth shifts...
 
B

BrianM

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Aug 14, 2020
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Tulsa, OK
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  1. Talon x4
I use Rotella T6 which is a full synthetic. It doesn't have all the additives that make clutches slip. I ran it in my Yamaha 450 dirt bike for the same reason...engine oil and gearcase are one in the same. It's specifically recommended for diesel engines which really seem to abuse the oil in them. I used it in my diesel pickup when I had it and was always shocked at how dirty oil looked coming out when I changed it. On my motorcycle it always looked like the day I put it in. I don't know if Rotella is better than other oils but it has the JASO - MA specification which is the important thing.

I haven't changed the subtrans oils yet but was considering using an 80W differential oil of some sort.
 
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McCarthy

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I switched to Honda synthetic for first service and the whine from the trans is quieter, and it shifts smoother.
 
CID

CID

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<snip>

I haven't changed the subtrans oils yet but was considering using an 80W differential oil of some sort.
The manual recommends a 10w-30, same as the engine. 80W won't accomplish much more than adding a lot of friction which in turn will cause problems getting into low range.

I'll be trying this, the moly makes it slipperier. It is NOT to be used in the engine, subtrans only.

More details here:

1602693366269
 
AZRocks

AZRocks

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You want an API SG or higher (per the manual), JASO - MA oil. The rating is in a ~1" circle on the bottle. What you don't want is 'energy conserving' printed in that same 1" circle, those ratings imply friction modifier packages to make the oil slipperier which is what causes clutches to slip. Heavier weight oils will rarely have those packages like 10w-40 or 15w-50 (if you don't want to run motorcycle specific oils which won't have the friction modifiers).

I used Mobil 1 15w-50 Full synthetic automotive oil in my dual sport for decades with no problems but it only had 35 HP (less torque to slip clutch).

Not sure why my 233 pixel photo turned into a 150 pixel photo. 🤔

i-TVTHbFv-Th.jpg
As the CID man said. This is all you need to know about the oil: you MUST run MA-certified in the engine for the wet clutches to minimize slippage. For everything else, the user manual is your guide for oil weights, specs, and change intervals. You can run your choice of dinosaur or synthetic. IMO, a dealer that says they won't warranty the machine for use of synthetic is only using that as an excuse to take your $$. I run synthetic in everything on my 1000. It breaks down slower/lasts longer/handles heat better, so I can give less thought to oil changes and more to my next ride 😁
 
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