P1000 KOD's ongoing mods.

Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
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Greer, SC
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  1. 1000-3
Well, I thought I would join the rest and share my modifications and additions so far and as I go along. I am always open to suggestions, recommendations, telling me what I have won't work on the trail and so on. My objective is riding normal with no intentional mud and rocks. This will be used for work also, so I need to maintain reliability.

First thing I did was add two side view mirrors. They are "ok" I believe they will hold position but the view is somewhat distorted. I do have a rear view mirror on the way after deciding on what I wanted. It is an actual glass mirror.
IMG 20200611 200749


Second thing I did was mount my Tuff Box for tools and spare parts. I had to put the 2x6 behind it so the lid could open. It is mounted with bolts back and bottom.
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Next mod shown partly above and below is creating a storage compartment that can also doubles as a temporary rear seat. All the wood can be quickly removed by one person by hand if needed. I can raise the lids and pull out the front 2x10 and access the Tuff Box latches. The cooler is a near perfect fit with a little gun case foam taking up the extra space. It fits tight and shouldn't rattle.
IMG 20200614 182120


So far I have nothing in this as everything pictured was already on hand. After figuring out this would work I decided to buy some $1 hinges at Harbor Freight and a magnet from Home Depot. The small silver magnet is too weak but the red one is not and will work perfect. I removed the smaller one.
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I'm going to ride it a few times and see how things work out. If it's all good I'll pull all the wood and paint it with a texturized black.
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Foam between the cooler and bed. More than likely I'll add the exact same cooler to the other side. The Igloos work great for a day trip. If you spend a night you might want something a little better.
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Next I painted the Honda logo on the tailgate. I created a few light gray spots getting the excess paint off. I need to fix this, open to suggestions.
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Next, I mounted the Badlands 5000 winch with that crappy KFI mount. The blue and yellow winch wires were just long enough. I had to drill two new holes in the bumper to mount the fairlead. I mounted it low as I could go to decrease the pulling angle.
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Just showing how I routed my wires.
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I feel really confident they will never get snagged on anything.
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Here I am trying to show were I tied the blue wire to the grill (top left). There's no way the blue wire can make it even close to the radiator.
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Only had to drill one hole for the yellow wire. The hood has no problem closing. Right now, I'm waiting on my second battery and isolator kit before hooking up to the battery. And I know what you are thinking and yes it would be hilarious as hell if the winch didn't work.
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Next I installed the underseat storage and the under dash storage compartments. Also shown is a nice DC socket splitter with two usb ports and a voltage meter. BTW, those THOR gloves are over 20 years old and still going strong. I have had to sew the seams in a few places but for wear, no holes yet..
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At some point I removed the cup holder and cut off the tabs so my RTIC cup would fit. Also, my name has been on that cup for a long time. No, i'm not narcissistic, autistic or any other statistic. 😆
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Last thing I did was mount my PBR plate with the push pins, RAM mount for the OnePlus phone and the winch rocker. At some point the RAM mount may get relocated if I get a bluetooth controller for speakers.
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Extra credit, my custom DeWalt radio (side kick). With the larger battery starting with a full change it will run over 13 hours straight on half volume. After 13 hours I turned it off so I know it will go longer. Of course this isn't permanent and on a ride with others I'd probably never bring it in this position because of the dust.
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That's it for now, future mods on the wish list are a backup light, two small cube flood lights for the front and maybe a 8-12" driving/spot light bar for the front. A rooftop but it's hard to cough up $400 or more for a piece of plastic.

Let me know what yall think; I always take criticism critical...or is that constructive?? 🤣
 
Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Thank all. Hey TxDoc, are you the old TxDoc from the 90's that was on "or still is" HighLifter forum?

Sjc3081, can you show me how you remedied the plastic splash guard?
 
Sjc3081

Sjc3081

Well-Known Member
Jan 16, 2017
263
442
63
Wappinger NY
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  1. 1000-5
Thank all. Hey TxDoc, are you the old TxDoc from the 90's that was on "or still is" HighLifter forum?

Sjc3081, can you show me how you remedied the plastic splash guard?
this
 
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Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
I believe I have the bed mods finalized. Everything you see can be removed by hand, without tools except the Tuff Box. I got the boards painted, magnets in place and a handle to open the lid because the magnet is so strong. I also have a couple of different ways to carry gas if needed. After doing all this if there's one thing I'd recommend is going with 2x12's instead of the 2x10's. I already had 2x10 laying around so that made the decision for me. However I believe I can block up the 2x10's and will work out great. Reason for the 2 extra inches is it knocks me out of a few things being stored inside the compartment. I'll put up a few photos will dialog if needed.
IMG 20200628 181638


5 Gallon gas tank carry spot. With the circled board in place the gas can will never come out. The fit is so tight I had to install a handle on that piece of wood to lift it. It doesn't look tight but that can is larger at the bottom and that piece of wood has a bow in it, creating a wedge.
InkedIMG 20200627 174709 LI


Here is the 2.5 gal gas can that will not allow the lid to close. The smaller 1.25 gal can will work. (this is gonna sound funny, but) This is where the extra 2" would come in handy. 🤣
IMG 20200627 174614


I'll have some more stuff soon. Working with cab lighting now and also setting up the dual battery.
 
Enigma

Enigma

East Tennessee Mudder
Lifetime Member
Mar 22, 2020
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Rocky Top
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  1. Do not currently own
I've never seen a pre-airfilter that clean.
 
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Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Things have come quite a ways since my last post.

Finally got the electrical add-ons up and running. What I have done is nothing new or to behold LOL. I just wanted to share my fun and maybe help someone along the way if they are deciding to do something like this. Speaking of help, I want to give a big shoutout to JoeyL and 8ball929. JoeyL provided the groundwork with his wiring diagram below 👍 I used it to keep me on track with what I was doing and the things I needed. 8ball929, well all he did was help me spend my money on Rigid lights for the pillars :rolleyes: 🤑.

I won't go into "detail" about the individual parts and places where purchased but I can provide that information if someone request it. The parts I did go with are parts that are proven to work. The following photos are in no particular order, some may have dialog and others not.

Rigid Lights. These are RIGID D-SS SIDE SHOOTER 262213. After using the Viewpoint viewer on the Rigid site I decided the spot lights were best for me. Some may want flood. I do have clear covers over mine. I'll get more photos when outside the garage and make final adjustments.
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I debated on what kind of cab light I wanted and decided I did need something. I really didn't want to add a wired light so I come up with the following options that work very good for my needs. Again, won't go into a lot of detail as the photos are self explanatory but I can if needed.

LED lights ran off 3 AAA batteries. I have one on each side. Held with velcro straps that were provided with the lights.

When I first mounted the light I put it over the windshield. Here are the results.
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It was so bright I put electrical tape on the side to get the glare out of my eyes.
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Dark, light off.
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Dark, light on. I decided this was actually too much light. I ended up with another option for a dash light.
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Final resting place for the LED light is on the sides as shown, one on each side. These put out a tremendous amount of light for such a small package, only turning one on lights up the garage. Also I left the light on for at least 8 hours straight before turning it off to go to bed one night. So, it will shine a long time before battery replacement is needed.
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Here is what I finally went with for a dash light to burn constantly while night riding. I already had the flashlight but bought the RAM mounts and the diffuser. The photos shown are with the flashlight on the lowest "firefly" setting.

Light off.
IMG 20200629 211507


Flashlight on without diffuser.
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Flashlight on with diffuser. Notice how the light is more spread out, not really centered on one spot
and softer. For my eyes this is a perfect glow at night to see what I'm doing with the gear shifters.
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Light with RAM mount.
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With diffuser attached.
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Panel with lighted switches. I may change out the Winch switch, this is the one that come with the Badlands winch.
IMG 20200711 215014


Now, on with the dual battery setup. First are some closeup photos of parts used. BTW, wire wrapped with red tape is black. I didn't want a black wire going to the POS Bus and I didn't want to buy another one. Also, that Bus is held firmly in place with the rubber strap without being screwed down. IMO it's a perfect place for it. I put the tool canister in one of my overhead cab bags.
IMG 20200712 091047


I had intended on using the NEG side of this fuse box but the battery is to close to the terminals.
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Attempting to show the NEG bus.
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How I decided to mount the wired winch controller plug.
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I used the factory NEG winch wire for the Stinger.
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Overall layout. Everything works perfect and I'm satisfied with the results. I still need to trim the air intake lid and will do that today. I may do something with the relays as I add more things.
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JoeyL's marked up drawing diagram I used. Thanks, I couldn't have done it without this.
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Well that's it folks. Hope I didn't bore you veterans who's " been there done that" already. Again, maybe this will help someone tackle their electrical needs.

EDIT: Forgot to mention adding the D-Rings.
IMG 20200702 184810
 
Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Updated night photos in the backyard. I did make adjustments after these photos but unless anyone is interested I won't be posting new photos after adjustments were made.

High beam only.
IMG 20200712 214312


Rigid on.
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High beam only.
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Rigid on.
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Low beam.
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High beam.
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Rigid only.
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Console flashlight off.
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Flashlight with diffuser on.
IMG 20200712 214357
 
Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Good stuff. Like the shooting setup ;)
Thanks, I shoot at least one of my handguns or rifles everyday "almost". Realistically, 5 out of 7 days.

Well, I got around 110 miles on the Honda now. Everything works perfect so far. For warranty reasons I'm going to take it in for the 100 mile service. I thought I was in the twilight zone when the local Honda service guy told me it would cost $500.

But, anyway, wanted to post all my current mods have held up great.

I also added another light up front just to see how it worked out. It's ok, doesn't fit in the spot exactly right with the mounts I have. I'm going to move this one to the rear for a backup light.
IMG 20200901 210537


I ended up going with the aluminum Bad Dawg roof. I chose it because it's flat, fits great and was over $170 cheaper than Honda OEM. Only issue is it doesn't come down low enough in the front to block rain. It has a gap between the roof and the Super ATV windshield. I found this 3" door sweep and teamed it up with an aluminum bar and sandwiched the rubber door sweep between. It should work perfect.

Couldn't find anything full length so I had to piece them together.
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This photos shows where the rubber meets the metal roof.
IMG 20200901 165448


This photo show the windshield open plus shows the gap between the roll cage and roof that the Super ATV windshield mount creates.
IMG 20200901 165538
 
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Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Wanted to let everyone know, the windshield mod is working great. Had some rain over the past few days and I got to test it out.

Also I wanted to post here about my radiator fan mod used in the cab, overhead for air flow on hot days when the windshield has to be down. That began as a project I didn't know would work out so I didn't post about it here to begin with. Rather than repost a bunch of photos I'll just give a link to the thread.

Hillbilly Air Condition Mod
 
Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Wanted to give an update on the Extreme LED light bar I bought a few months back. Looks like condensation has built up inside the lens. It sat in the sun all day today and this photo was taken around 4 pm. I have contacted Extreme LED about this to see if I can remove the lens and wipe it off. Have not heard back yet. This light bar will be going to the rear as a backup light.

1600744279197


By comparison, here are the Rigid lights I have had a lot longer than the Extreme.

1600744398186

1600744441448
 
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Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Well, I guess I'll pick up where I left off.

I gave the guys are Extreme LED plenty of time to get back with me and no one ever did. So I removed screws on the face plate holding the lens on. This is the first light of this type I have taken apart so for all I know this construction method may be a standard way. If it is, I don't like it. As you can see the 3 small bolts on top and bottom, holding the lens doesn't have a hole to go in. Instead they just screw between two pieces of aluminum. Again, this may be a standard practice, IDK but I don't like it. That and coupled with the customer service I received I can safely say I won't be buying another Extreme LED product. Also, FWIW the lens material is plastic.
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I'm working on a backup light, that's my current project.

Yesterday I finished my heat control mod by doing what you guys recommended. Installing a heat barrier under the seat. I might have took mine one step further and ran the barrier up and behind the back of the seat. This totally blocked off all the heat my wife and I normally would feel. We rode 2 miles on pavement about 30 mph and never felt any heat under or behind the seat. It being a cool night in the low 60's made it a great time to test because with the cooler air surely we would have felt heat if it was there. I also believe the barrier reduced engine and drivetrain noise. Thanks for the suggestion on this mod. Between that and my fans I look to stay cool even if I can't be cool. 🤣


I normally hate pant cans "and they hate me" but this time we got along fine.
IMG 20201001 183614


Paint cans work great for holding everything in place when deciding where to make your seatbelt cuts. Obviously anything heavy would work.
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Didn't think bringing it up much more would help.
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From here the back of the seat does a great job of holding the material in place. While I make the required cuts.
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You can't see it but the seat does latch. It really had no choice with my fat ass on it. 🤭
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Taking opinions. Leave it, paint it black or sling some bling on it? :cool:
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Probably enough material for two more seats.
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Finished product.
IMG 20201001 191504


Now, back to your originally scheduled program.
 
Kisssofdeath

Kisssofdeath

Active Member
Jun 7, 2020
55
128
33
Greer, SC
Ownership

  1. 1000-3
Finally got my backup light on. It wasn't a difficult job but was time consuming. I bought a cheap light from Amazon $27 I believe. It is advertised as water proof but time will tell. It's ok as far as brightness goes. I think the advertised lums is greatly exaggerated but I can still see and it was cheap and better than what I had "which was nothing". Bought the wiring and switch from the Honda Side X Side Club Store. I did have to drop the passenger side skid plates down to run the wire to the rear. Slight PITA running the wires through the dash. I believe I need to angle the light down a few degrees. Right now it's not pointing down at all just straight back.
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