snuffnwhisky
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I went out to check my crossover rings and noticed that the rear passenger shock upper springs were rubbing the crossover rings and the lower springs were rubbing the shock body. The springs appeared warped a little. I have ridden once since I got them back from Weller. I sent in pictures to Weller Racing to get their thoughts. I also removed the springs off of the shock and they seemed fine once removed. I reassembled everything back together and all now seems fine except for the scar left from the springs rubbing the shock body. Weller told me that they were not sure how this happened but stated it could have happened during shipping or debris could have gotten in during my ride that caused this. I told them that I feel that it was assembled wrong at their site. I should have paid closer attention closer attention once I let the jack down after installing the shocks onto the machine but the website stated that no further adjustments were needed once I received them back from the company. After a few conversations back and forth Weller told me that it was only cosmetic but that they would replace the shock body at no cost to me. I would have to send the shock back to them and wait until they received the new shock body from Fox. It sounded to me that it could possibly be out of stock from the factory and may take some time. I did not want to mess with sending the shock back to them for only a cosmetic issue. I suggest that if anyone sends their shocks to Weller for work to be sure everything fits well once you install them back on your machine.
I have removed my sway bar and moved my crossover rings up quite a bit. It will be a few weeks before I can fully test.
In the second picture it looks like the spring is about 1/2" away from the shock body on the one side and touching or nearly touching on the other. Since you disassembled them and reassembled them and it isn't like this I say improper assembly.
Another thing that leads me to believe improper assembly is because when I checked mine the crossover rings are about 1" difference on the rear between the driver and passenger. If this is indeed poor workmanship I hope that the same person that assembled didn't do the revalving. I don't know what all that consists of but it sounds complicated. If they can't reassemble springs properly I can't imagine what could possibly be incorrect in the revalving process.
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That is cosmetic (although pretty ugly) but your shocks bodies will be all scratched up with a little more mileage anyway.
It is pretty obvious from your last pic that the lower spring perch was not seated properly. It is easy to seat the perch incorrectly (been there, done that) and I have even seen it on another forum from the factory that way but that is no excuse when paying someone for service...
Don't judge from the ring to the spring splitter, that distance will only be the same if the machine is perfectly level and that is all but impossible, especially because the driver side of a Talon tends to sit lower than the passenger side. You need to measure from the preload nut to the crossover and make sure they are the same.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, those crossover rings are too far down and you are engaging the main (heavier) spring almost immediately and this will cause a rough ride.
To both you and @Josh97stang: I don't believe that Weller (or anyone for that matter) can set your preload and crossovers without scaling the machine, that is basically impossible. They can get it close enough to install and ride but your machine does not scale out exactly like the next and 100 lbs makes a big difference in preload and crossover settings.
Now that both of you have a few miles on the setup and settled the springs, you need to load the machine and set your ride height and then the crossovers. Start with the ride height at (or just above) stock and for a smooth ride, back off the crossover rings.
The preload on mine was really close. I have 32” tusks and am sitting at 15” front and rear without my ice chest loaded. That was before I added my trail armor skid plate yesterday.
That is a perfect starting point. Check your ride height every 1000 miles or any time you add/remove anything substantial (like skids). Also remember if you move the preload, you should also move the crossovers the same amount in the same direction.
2 ways to go about crossovers. Start with them cranked down like they came and raise them 7 turns (about 1/2") at a time until you have a good balance between ride and bottom out resistance. OR, back them all the way off (just before the point of coil bind) for the most plush ride and crank them down 1/2" at a time if you need some addition bottom out resistance.
And once you figure it out, you can change the settings depending on riding style. For instance, I leave my preloads set but I set the crossovers to near coil bind for trail riding and rock crawling, this gives me a comfortable/compliant ride. Then I crank them down 21 turns for the dunes for better bottom resistance in the G-Outs. It isn't a huge difference but it does allow me to go about 5-10 MPH faster.
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This is not a knock on Weller by any means....but I wish we could some how compare rides. My X done by G-Force was a complete change and completely noticeable. It rides awesome and I really like the ride now. I did get rid of the qs3 and have a complete hi/low compression adjustment on it now. Gary from G-Force said that was a major up grade and difference maker too. Makes me wonder if the difference from yours to mine is company or hi/low or both?!?!
Based on the recommendations from @CID and @PaulF I made some adjustments to my crossover rings and disconnected the rear sway bar. I moved my crossover rings way up from their original position that Weller had them set at. I have not had a chance to fully test out my adjustments to my mountain trail riding conditions but I did take it down some deer camp roads close to my house and I can definitely tell a difference in the adjustments. We hit some bumps on gravels roads and never felt them. We go back to the mountains in two weeks and then I will be able to get a full comparison. I am still learning about suspensions but I think I now have the knowledge to get it dialed in and hope that in the end it was worth the money for the shock work. We will report back here after our mountain ride.
Maybe one day we will make it over to RRB and can catch up with you there.
After our changes of adjusting the crossover rings so the tenders could function and removing the sway bar the Talon X rides much better. Going through our rocky terrain that is normally sharp and rough was much more smooth. We observed a lot of body roll as expected since we removed the sway bar but it was a price we were willing to pay for the much smoother ride.
Since we didn't get to check out the ride without the sway bar before we sent the shocks to Weller, I can't say whether or not the revalving and new springs helped or hurt. I can only assume (and hope) they helped based off others' reviews in this forum.
Overall, my and @Josh97stang 's wives were pleased and are happy.
We took a few gravel/paved roads between trails and achieved higher speeds. I felt like some of those cars on hydraulics coming around curves lifting one of the front tires.
Since we didn't get to check out the ride without the sway bar before we sent the shocks to Weller, I can't say whether or not the revalving and new springs helped or hurt. I can only assume (and hope) they helped based off others' reviews in this forum.
Overall, my and @Josh97stang 's wives were pleased and are happy.
We took a few gravel/paved roads between trails and achieved higher speeds. I felt like some of those cars on hydraulics coming around curves lifting one of the front tires.
B
I just purchased the 2021 Honda talon 1000x 4 with fox live valve and my wife has back issues and she absolutely loves the sport mode of the fox live valve shocks bust our experience and we are mtn riders so we put the suspension to use.
