P1000 Not shifting/not moving

[1Ktrailrider]

I'm hoping to get some help. This is the 1st issue I've had with my 16' P1K5.
Engine-2600 miles
Rig- 4800 miles
All stock trail machine
Please read all.
After a rest stop i started back up, put it in gear and it revved without engaging. Back to park and then to "H" and it went just fine. After a few 100yards the gear indicator flashed with a dash and within a few seconds showed "gear 1 or gear 2" (whichever it was in) and stayed there. It wouldn't down or up shift but did not slip in gear at all. Manuel/sport/paddle shifts wouldn't function and then the oil light came on. I put 1.5qts of oil in it between the dct and engine. Both the dipstick read just over the full line but it still wouldn't shift. The oil light would come on sporadically and if i turned it off and back on it would shift for a few hundred feet and get stuck in gear again. (Clutches where grabbing, wasn't slipping at all) drove 1mile on flat trail to a road.
At that point I did the emergency pressure relief valve but I think I did it wrong as I didn't screw in the bolt all the way. I just pushed the plunger in and set it back up as it was. It made it a few hundred feet and the oil light came back on so I turned it off and back on. The oil light is off (it has plenty of oil) but it won't engage in any gear. I spent many hours reading threads and posts but haven't come up with a starting point besides checking grounds. What should I look into?

 

[Firemedic530]

I would start with battery check and grounds. These act very strange when voltage is low or not grounded well.

The two dip sticks are actually the sub trans under the seat and the engine/dct are the dipstick under the rear access. Engine and transmission/ clutch share oil. I don't believe the sub trans can activate the oil light, only the engine is monitored.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Where exactly did you add oil? 1.5 its low is significant and there very well could be damage.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[1Ktrailrider]

Where exactly did you add oil? 1.5 its low is significant and there very well could be damage.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I put half qt in the engine and half qt in the sub trans. It was full at that time but the oil light was still on and it wasn't shifting so I put the add'l half qt in the engine as a last ditch effort. At this point the oil light is off and it won't engage in any gear.

 

[1Ktrailrider]

I pulled it off the trailer and I noticed the gear selector flashing. Looks like 16-2 is the code. Not sure what that is just yet.

 

[GPR1500SC]

I had two Pioneers with two different problems withe the red oil light coming on.

Machine 1 every time the cooling fan kicked on the red oil light came on.

Fix = loose ground cable on the battery

Machine 2 came on and would not shift do to low battery voltage weak battery and to much winching

Fix = charge battery, later replacing it.

 

[1Ktrailrider]

I had two Pioneers with two different problems withe the red oil light coming on.

Machine 1 every time the cooling fan kicked on the red oil light came on.

Fix = loose ground cable on the battery

Machine 2 came on and would not shift do to low battery voltage weak battery and to much winching

Fix = charge battery, later replacing it.

I am definatly leaning towards a bad ground. Hopefully its nothing more than that. The next day a code came up (16-2) which the dealer told me was a faulty or short in the EPS and now it has a bouncy idle. I put it on the charger and both batteries where at 92%. I'm going to work on it tomorrow.

 

[1Ktrailrider]

PROBLEM FIXED (broken shift solenoid wire)
I went as far as taking the cover off and removing the valve body, cleaning it all up and bench testing each solenoid. All was well. I then checked all the wires in the pig tail that sent signals to the solenoids and the 3 oil sensors. All good. Slightly worried because at this point I new it was electrical.. I decided to put it back together and see what happens. I got it all back together and was inbetween torquing down the bolts and unwrapping the tape from the other side of the wire harness when i found it. A small section of the wire harness had rubbed raw and destroyed 1 wire. The black wire that sends a signal to shift solenoid B. I just sat on the garage floor, smoked a cigarette and drank a beer. I soldered a loop onto it secured it all back together. Turned the key (couldnt start it, no engine oil) to ACC and all the codes where gone and cluster was back to normal. Put oil in it the next day and test drove it. All's good.

 

[BigNBlack7]

PROBLEM FIXED (broken shift solenoid wire)
I went as far as taking the cover off and removing the valve body, cleaning it all up and bench testing each solenoid. All was well. I then checked all the wires in the pig tail that sent signals to the solenoids and the 3 oil sensors. All good. Slightly worried because at this point I new it was electrical.. I decided to put it back together and see what happens. I got it all back together and was inbetween torquing down the bolts and unwrapping the tape from the other side of the wire harness when i found it. A small section of the wire harness had rubbed raw and destroyed 1 wire. The black wire that sends a signal to shift solenoid B. I just sat on the garage floor, smoked a cigarette and drank a beer. I soldered a loop onto it secured it all back together. Turned the key (couldnt start it, no engine oil) to ACC and all the codes where gone and cluster was back to normal. Put oil in it the next day and test drove it. All's good.

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I'm having this EXACT same problem right now with my 2016 Pioneer 1000. I'm going to tear into it tonight and look for broken wires. Thanks for the post!

 

[1Ktrailrider]

I'm having this EXACT same problem right now with my 2016 Pioneer 1000. I'm going to tear into it tonight and look for broken wires. Thanks for the post!

How exact is the problem? Any codes? Is it in limp mode?

 

[Sawpilot]

I'm having this EXACT same problem right now with my 2016 Pioneer 1000. I'm going to tear into it tonight and look for broken wires. Thanks for the post!

Did you figure yours out, my pioneer 1000 will not go into any gear and the idol is oscillating. It seems like it’s going into gear it just won’t move and the gear selector has that Dash

 

[slowdryrider]

P1000 - Stumped: dont know what 2do read this one and see if it's any help.

 

[1Ktrailrider]

P1000 - Stumped: dont know what 2do read this one and see if it's any help.

This is also my post. One of the 3 times I've had shifting issues. I got it fixed. Turned out the shift motor was bad. It seemed fine. Tested good. Bought a used one on ebay and it shift perfect.

 

[Sawpilot]

ITS FIXED....... Water got into my sub transmission because the dipstick was cross threaded water got into that gear selector switch and ruined it. 89.00

 

[Teresa]

I'm hoping to get some help. This is the 1st issue I've had with my 16' P1K5.
Engine-2600 miles
Rig- 4800 miles
All stock trail machine
Please read all.
After a rest stop i started back up, put it in gear and it revved without engaging. Back to park and then to "H" and it went just fine. After a few 100yards the gear indicator flashed with a dash and within a few seconds showed "gear 1 or gear 2" (whichever it was in) and stayed there. It wouldn't down or up shift but did not slip in gear at all. Manuel/sport/paddle shifts wouldn't function and then the oil light came on. I put 1.5qts of oil in it between the dct and engine. Both the dipstick read just over the full line but it still wouldn't shift. The oil light would come on sporadically and if i turned it off and back on it would shift for a few hundred feet and get stuck in gear again. (Clutches where grabbing, wasn't slipping at all) drove 1mile on flat trail to a road.
At that point I did the emergency pressure relief valve but I think I did it wrong as I didn't screw in the bolt all the way. I just pushed the plunger in and set it back up as it was. It made it a few hundred feet and the oil light came back on so I turned it off and back on. The oil light is off (it has plenty of oil) but it won't engage in any gear. I spent many hours reading threads and posts but haven't come up with a starting point besides checking grounds. What should I look into?

View attachment 142822 View attachment 142823 View attachment 142824

WE just had this same thing happen to ours yesterday...was stranded until midnight in the woods.... did you have any luck fixing yours?

 

[1Ktrailrider]

WE just had this same thing happen to ours yesterday...was stranded until midnight in the woods.... did you have any luck fixing yours?

You could have used the emergency relief valve under the bed. It locks it in gear incase if an emergency. Its noted in the owners manual. What fault codes came up?

 

[slowdryrider]

WE just had this same thing happen to ours yesterday...was stranded until midnight in the woods.... did you have any luck fixing yours?

I had the same problem with mine. Once I took the shift motor off and cleaned it up inside ,especially the armature everything worked fine. It won't cost you anything to do that and you'll find out like I did that it was the problem. I did use it that way for awhile but for piece of mind I did buy a new one and installed it. It's worth a try .I also told you this in your other post. Try it cleaning up the shift motor and let us know how it works.Bet it works like it's suppossed too.

 

[Manjackbaja]

I see this post is a year old but I’m currently in the same boat .My 1000 has run the gamut of shifting problems , I took apart and cleaned shift motor which helped but when warmed up I turn on key and either get a dash or #2 in place of the D and machine revs but transmission does not engage.
I discovered putting selector in D then turn on key I hear a click , then go back to P and it usually clears and goes back to normal operation.
Using the information I gathered from this thread I’m going hunting for shift solenoid wires to inspect and hopefully end up drinking a beer and smoking a cigar!
Thanks for giving a guy hope