P1000 Pro's and Con's of isolated 2nd battery for accessories vs 2 batteries in parallel

Scoop

Scoop

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Still chiming in with nothing valid to offer and just to stir it up I see Scoop, you haven't graduated yet. :rolleyes:
Stir it up? Nothing valid to offer? Why, because I dare to disagree with you?

511 "thumbs up" in just over a month and a half of membership - others must see things you don't (or refuse to). You clearly haven't read any of my other posts on various other threads over the course of the past week or so. I think I've done a pretty good job of offering valid POV and information.

You can install, have or tell others they need to carry around 17 batteries if you think that's the best approach. I just think it's not the best approach.

I guess not agreeing with trigger means "nothing valid to offer". 🤦‍♂️
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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Not stirring. And not kidding.
I have an isolated dual battery setup.
I also have a Li jump pack tucked away overhead.
And this morning I saw I had jumper cables beneath the toolbag under the front seat.

I think I have enough gigamajoules to go back to the future.

Now I'm thinking about on-roof solar panels.
Just make sure those panels can handle recharging the 1.21 gigawatts.
 
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bumperm

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A couple questions if I needed to jump start from the isolated battery.

1-- Do I need to disconnect the isolator or anything else first?
2-- Do I just jumper the posative (assuming they both have a common ground) or do I need to jumper both posative and Negative?

Thanks!

1. No need (or advantage) for disconnecting anything, isolator or battery leads.
2. You can use a short jumper from one battery positive to the other. However, it is probably even more convenient to jump the two large terminals on the True isolator, as a positive wire from the two batteries goes one to each of them.

If one of your batteries is lithium, and it's in a discharged condition, do not connect it directly to another battery that has higher voltage. Unlike a Pb battery, the lithium battery naturally has quite low internal resistance, connecting it to the higher voltage source can cause current flow into the lithium way beyond maximum, (think shorting the good battery's terminal with a wrench - welding time!). This can cause really bad things to happen. (Yes, many lithium batteries have a BMS (battery management system) that is supposed to protect from overcurrent. Do you feel lucky?
 
trigger

trigger

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Todd627

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Nah, nowhere near a fight on my part. The OP asked for pro's and con's and both are viable options. Hell, there's even one guy that is carrying a second battery that isn't hooked up at all. Everyone has their own needs and if it works for them....:cool:
Trigger my Brother, here is some advice instead of arguing with that DB who doesn’t comprehend your statements….

5EE5737B 52D0 408B 8905 0560D9A4E875
 
bumperm

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Now, let me first sa . . . ah, hold on, the little angel on my shoulder is trying to tell me something . . . "No, no, bumper, stay out of this. Nothing good will come of it and besides that you have absolutely nothing positive to add. You are just going for a cheap joke line again aren't you?!"

Well no, I was just, well okay, I was just gonna say something like, "Well if the bag fits . . .", Ouch! Dang that hurt! Angels are not supposed to kick you in the ear - that hurt! Here, I won't send this, I'll hit the red delete button. Oops.
 
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mlynch001

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I vote for the simplicity of dual batteries wired in parallel. My 2016 1000-5D is so equipped. If I wanted an Isolated setup, then perhaps a manual isolation switch? I have read about many of these electronic diode based isolators that fail and leave you stranded. They do add complexity to the system, but also offer a certain level of redundancy as well. If you could find a really well built isolator that was made somewhere besides China, you might be ahead of the game. It all depends on your particular application as to whether you isolate or do not isolate.
 
Scoop

Scoop

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Process the A Holes leading us down the downward spiral not one another brothers !
You're right.

I've deleted some of my previous posts in this thread. That doesn't mean I've changed my opinion on the topic - it just means I realize that some of my posts are/were not constructive to the thread.
 
bumperm

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I vote for the simplicity of dual batteries wired in parallel. My 2016 1000-5D is so equipped. If I wanted an Isolated setup, then perhaps a manual isolation switch? I have read about many of these electronic diode based isolators that fail and leave you stranded. They do add complexity to the system, but also offer a certain level of redundancy as well. If you could find a really well built isolator that was made somewhere besides China, you might be ahead of the game. It all depends on your particular application as to whether you isolate or do not isolate.

Not sure I understand . . . how would the isolator fail and leave you stranded? That is if you take the basic precautions such as carrying a short, single wire "battery clip" to jump from one side of the isolator to the other (same as connecting positives on each battery) - this bypasses the isolator and connects to two batteries in parallel. Electrically, this is the same as one would do when jump starting. The True isolator gets around battery matching problems by only charging the aux battery when the main battery gets over 13.2 to .3 volts or so (indicated by the blue light coming on)*. Otherwise the batteries do not share function when discharging, they power only the equipment that's connected to them. E.g., if the winch is on the aux, you can run that until the battery gets low and still start the machine on the main battery to get home.

The problem with many applications of "two batteries in parallel" is that the widely held recommendation is the batteries should be the same make, size and age to be connected in parallel. The risk being that one battery is weaker than the other. This means the failing battery can potentially drag the other one down or cause it to be overcharged. This is the same mantra as when installing battery banks in parallel, same date code etc.

*This charging plan also works when you follow True's suggestion to connect the trickle charger to the aux, as the aux is often down after running stuff from it with the engine off (think winching in the circumstance that the engine cannot be run). Thus, when the aux battery reaches 13.2, the isolator will start charging the main.
 

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