P1000 Re-wired the Pioneer 1000-5… ugh

[fuzz_nut98]

I bought this 2016 1000-5 2 years ago used and the previous owners wiring was questionable at best. It was a rats nest under the hood and wires spliced into wires spliced into more wires. I added a couple light bars that didn’t help the situation. It was time for a change, fix the mess and and protect it from and voltage issues. This is still an ongoing project so I’ll update as I go but this was when I started pulling wires from under the dash:

I wanted to add a second battery and isolator then decided to do a stinger relay and fuse box.
First the accessories I’m running and why it’s been a nightmare:
Winch
Heater
Windshield wiper
Blower
Radio
Light bar (wire with high beams)
Pod lights on front
Rear back up pod lights (wired to reverse and switch)
Turn signals, horn, hazards.
Plus I’m going to add some interior lights.

Not a small task but I have a little OCD and the wiring has driven me nuts since I’ve owned it. It has a Honda switch panel for the heater and wipers. All of this ran off one battery, some tied into ignition power some not.

There was 7 wires going in to negative and 5-6 going to positive plus wires spliced into those wires.
Here is the previous switch panel:

None of the lights works on the switches which is really annoying so wanted to fix that and the USB port on the right of the radio didn’t work so I wanted to replace it as well. So I bought a PBR panel to replace it. Here is rewiring the switches:

Here’s a pile of the wires I removed:

Here is the under hood so far. Waiting for my Battery to show up tomorrow to install, then will mount the isolator and stinger but I’ve added a ground to the frame and it’s all ready.
Here’s what the under hood looks like so far:

I had a major problem as I was testing the relay and fuse panel. I hooked the relay up to the battery and ignition power from the #5 slot on the fuse panel to test the fuse panel and make sure everything worked. Everything would turn on with the ignition fine but when I turned off the ignition the dash and accessories still had power. I had to unhook the negative to get the dash and accessories to the shut off. I rechecked all the wiring, tore apart the dash, pulled fuses and wires and cut wires, nothing was fixing the issue. It was backfeeding to the ignition. After hours of research and trying a bunch of different things, I finally figured out the relay was bad. I did the old trick you use on your starter when it fails and tapped the relay with a screwdriver and the damn thing kicked off. Brand new relay. So anyway getting a new one sent Wednesday. FM


I bought every part I could off this forum and appreciate all the info and knowledge I’ve gained.

Here is the dash so far. Waiting on a couple switches.

Hoping to finish this by Wednesday.

 

[Admin]

 

[russknight]

One of the most professional jobs I've seen yet.

 

[annoyed]

I know your pain, I went through the same exact thing after buying my pioneer used. Ripped out a TON of wire and poorly installed crap. I was surprised he never had a major electrical short with some of the things I found.

I felt a lot better after doing it myself; knowing it was done "right"

 

[fuzz_nut98]

I know your pain, I went through the same exact thing after buying my pioneer used. Ripped out a TON of wire and poorly installed crap. I was surprised he never had a major electrical short with some of the things I found.

I felt a lot better after doing it myself; knowing it was done "right"

It’s has definitely been a learning process. I’ve enjoyed it and just knowing if something messes up I’ll know where to find it.

 

[Gunsite Guy]

By the way, if your ever this way, I am sure I could find a weekend worth of work for you :^) I'll buy the adult beverages.

Seriously, I envy your talent and determination.

s/f Steve

 

[fuzz_nut98]

By the way, if your ever this way, I am sure I could find a weekend worth of work for you :^) I'll buy the adult beverages.

Seriously, I envy your talent and determination.

s/f Steve

Thanks for the kind words. Definitely more determination than talent. Someone with talent could have done this in much less time than I’ve spent on it. It’s not done either I might tear it apart again. Who knows😆

 

[HBarlow]

Nice work. That new wiring job you did will save you hours of grief later on. Crappy wiring like your buggy was can cause breakdowns, discharged batteries,s and even electrical fires.

I'm curious about the leather or vinyl boots on your DCT and Sub-transmission shifters. Are those aftermarket add-ons or were the earlier Pioneers equipped with the boots when new?

The boots will prevent cold air intrusion during cold winter months.

 

[fuzz_nut98]

Nice work. That new wiring job you did will save you hours of grief later on. Crappy wiring like your buggy was can cause breakdowns, discharged batteries,s and even electrical fires.

I'm curious about the leather or vinyl boots on your DCT and Sub-transmission shifters. Are those aftermarket add-ons or were the earlier Pioneers equipped with the boots when new?

The boots will prevent cold air intrusion during cold winter months.

It’s just a couple universal shift boots off Amazon. They are ~ $10 a piece and the stainless plates I cut out around them. I just made a template with cardboard around the shifters, traced it on to a couple pieces of stainless scrap I found at work and cut them out. Drill a few holes and add some stainless self tapping screws. I have a full cab and heater, this cut out all the wind blowing through the shift gates. Works really well for stopping air but it kinda looks like hell and you can’t see the shift pattern. I think it was a good trade off.

 

[fuzz_nut98]

It’s just a couple universal shift boots off Amazon. They are ~ $10 a piece and the stainless plates I cut out around them. I just made a template with cardboard around the shifters, traced it on to a couple pieces of stainless scrap I found at work and cut them out. Drill a few holes and add some stainless self tapping screws. I have a full cab and heater, this cut out all the wind blowing through the shift gates. Works really well for stopping air but it kinda looks like hell and you can’t see the shift pattern. I think it was a good trade off.

Also, make sure to leave all the excess boot in tact until you know it’s got enough slack to make all the shifts, then screw down the bracket over the boot, then trim the excess boot off with a razor blade. This did take me 3 boots in 2 separate orders to make the 2 boots.🤨

 

[HBarlow]

That's an excellent fix for the cold air challenge in our Pioneers.

 

[Paul_H_L11]

I bought this 2016 1000-5 2 years ago used and the previous owners wiring was questionable at best. It was a rats nest under the hood and wires spliced into wires spliced into more wires. I added a couple light bars that didn’t help the situation. It was time for a change, fix the mess and and protect it from and voltage issues. This is still an ongoing project so I’ll update as I go but this was when I started pulling wires from under the dash:
View attachment 279675

I wanted to add a second battery and isolator then decided to do a stinger relay and fuse box.
First the accessories I’m running and why it’s been a nightmare:
Winch
Heater
Windshield wiper
Blower
Radio
Light bar (wire with high beams)
Pod lights on front
Rear back up pod lights (wired to reverse and switch)
Turn signals, horn, hazards.
Plus I’m going to add some interior lights.

Not a small task but I have a little OCD and the wiring has driven me nuts since I’ve owned it. It has a Honda switch panel for the heater and wipers. All of this ran off one battery, some tied into ignition power some not. View attachment 279679
There was 7 wires going in to negative and 5-6 going to positive plus wires spliced into those wires.
Here is the previous switch panel:
View attachment 279680
None of the lights works on the switches which is really annoying so wanted to fix that and the USB port on the right of the radio didn’t work so I wanted to replace it as well. So I bought a PBR panel to replace it. Here is rewiring the switches:
View attachment 279682
View attachment 279683
Here’s a pile of the wires I removed:
View attachment 279684
Here is the under hood so far. Waiting for my Battery to show up tomorrow to install, then will mount the isolator and stinger but I’ve added a ground to the frame and it’s all ready.
Here’s what the under hood looks like so far:
View attachment 279686
I had a major problem as I was testing the relay and fuse panel. I hooked the relay up to the battery and ignition power from the #5 slot on the fuse panel to test the fuse panel and make sure everything worked. Everything would turn on with the ignition fine but when I turned off the ignition the dash and accessories still had power. I had to unhook the negative to get the dash and accessories to the shut off. I rechecked all the wiring, tore apart the dash, pulled fuses and wires and cut wires, nothing was fixing the issue. It was backfeeding to the ignition. After hours of research and trying a bunch of different things, I finally figured out the relay was bad. I did the old trick you use on your starter when it fails and tapped the relay with a screwdriver and the damn thing kicked off. Brand new relay. So anyway getting a new one sent Wednesday. FM


I bought every part I could off this forum and appreciate all the info and knowledge I’ve gained.

Here is the dash so far. Waiting on a couple switches.
View attachment 279688

Hoping to finish this by Wednesday. View attachment 279678

Scotch-Lok connectors are an electrical failure waiting to happen. They always fail in a year or two.

 

[fuzz_nut98]

Scotch-Lok connectors are an electrical failure waiting to happen. They always fail in a year or two.

I removed 4-5 of them. Still one left that I’m robbing ignition power from. I might redo that one as well.

 

[Kinlaw]

"...the previous owners wiring was questionable at best." 😂😂

 

[Firemedic530]

Is your machine snorkeled? The stock 2016 air intake will allow water to enter if you hit puddles. The 2017.5 and later have a different intake cover and a block off plate. This would be a good time to update yours while you are working under the hood if it's still stock.

The wiring looks good.
Tim

 

[fuzz_nut98]

Is your machine snorkeled? The stock 2016 air intake will allow water to enter if you hit puddles. The 2017.5 and later have a different intake cover and a block off plate. This would be a good time to update yours while you are working under the hood if it's still stock.

The wiring looks good.
Tim

Not snorkeled. Probably something I’ll look at. Any brand or style to look at without cutting a hole in my hood.

 

[fuzz_nut98]

Done with wiring other than I’m going to send key power directly to the radio and have the switch hooked to battery power. I’d like to be able to leave the radio on without the key on. Sometimes I’ll shut it off to run in the house or something and when I start back up the radio has to reboot and gain Bluetooth signal with my phone again.