P1000 Rear locker cable

ODAMO

ODAMO

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After having difficulty disengaging the rear locker I inspected the adjustment and found it to be way out of adjustment. The adjusting thimble bottoms out with the barrel still .125 from seated (spec calls for .060). It works much better but has no further adjustability left.
Anybody run into this?
 
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Vikes79

Vikes79

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I don’t know if it changed for the newer models, but usually the diffs engagement and syncing with the dash lights is all in the shift cable box under the rear left passenger foot floor board on a P1k5.
 
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ODAMO

ODAMO

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I don’t know if it changed for the newer models, but usually the diffs engagement and syncing with the dash lights is all in the shift cable box under the rear left passenger foot floor board on a P1k5.
That shift cable box is no longer, the 22s eliminated it.
 
Remington

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That shift cable box is no longer, the 22s eliminated it.
Most of us cant help you there Then. Maybe @HondaTech has run into one of these yet? Or you might be the first. Youll have to post pics and upload a video of how to for 22’ newbies.
 
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Neohio

Neohio

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That shift cable box is no longer, the 22s eliminated it.
Incorrect.
The 16-21 that we know has been eliminated, but there is still an adjustment.
Check your 22 service manual, the procedure is listed.
 
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ODAMO

ODAMO

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Incorrect.
The 16-21 that we know has been eliminated, but there is still an adjustment.
Check your 22 service manual, the procedure is listed.
Page 19-35 in the 2022 service manual explains the adjustment but the cable is too long to get to the .010-.059 in. setting. I would need to put a spacer or washers uunder the adjusting nut to get it there
 
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Neohio

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Page 19-35 in the 2022 service manual explains the adjustment but the cable is too long to get to the .010-.059 in. setting. I would need to put a spacer or washers uunder the adjusting nut to get it there
I am honestly not very familiar with the adjustment.
Can you share some pictures?
Will using the spacer/washer put you in spec and give you proper operation?
 
ODAMO

ODAMO

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I am honestly not very familiar with the adjustment.
Can you share some pictures?
16F300E4 65DC 40BD 8439 59BEEF1927EC

Will using the spacer/washer put you in spec and give you proper operation?
 
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slowdryrider

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Is it possible that the splined lever has been installed wrong onto the splined stub shaft that sticks out of the diff. ???
There's usually a mark on the end of the stub shaft that should line up with the split on the lever . Rather then adding spacers you could change the postion of the lever on the shaft .
 
Neohio

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Is it possible that the splined lever has been installed wrong onto the splined stub shaft that sticks out of the diff. ???
There's usually a mark on the end of the stub shaft that should line up with the split on the lever . Rather then adding spacers you could change the postion of the lever on the shaft .
His picture shows the bracket being welded to the splined shaft.
 
ODAMO

ODAMO

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This is just me…but it’s brand new. (Just like mine). If something isn’t right let the dealership make it right while you have warranty.
I would rather tackle these things myself, If somethin super major happens then maybe.
 
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Are you making the adjustment properly? Are you lifting one tire and spinning it to confirm it is locked?
I wonder if the diff is locked per the instructions.
 
slowdryrider

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His picture shows the bracket being welded to the splined shaft.
Yup I see the pic now. But looking at the instructions it looks like I can see the end of the splined shaft . or am I seeing it wrong.If it is indeed welded this is going to suck if ever having to replace the seal on this shaft . And yes if still this new let dealer figure this out.
 
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ODAMO

ODAMO

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Just stack some washers, make the adjustment and move onto the next issue.
Cant stack washers cuz the nut and thimble shaft are one piece and its fishmouthed to retain the setting. It fully locks and unlocks now with .1 end play.
 
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