P700 Replacing oil screen pioneer 700

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sam61

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I am trying to crack open the engine to replace the oil screen and was wondering if some of the steps in the manual can be skipped. Like when I removed the engine and I skipped removing the front bumper and gas tank. For example do I really need to remove the thermostat?
 
DRZRon1

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there was a post where somebody did a diesel/kerosene flush and for the screen cleaned with splitting cases - just saying

U can skip steps like these
 
Hello_Darkness

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I am trying to crack open the engine to replace the oil screen and was wondering if some of the steps in the manual can be skipped. Like when I removed the engine and I skipped removing the front bumper and gas tank. For example do I really need to remove the thermostat?

The entire engine can drop out the bottom on the "cradle" it seems on. It has to be lifted up and back to clear the mounts.

The front diff is pulled foward to getting be front shaft off and the rear will slide off once you get the cradle loose
 
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sam61

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Engine is out and on the bench. I noticed when taking it out the manual called for taking a lot of stuff off that didn't need to be removed I'm just wondering if cracking the case is the same.
 
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sam61

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Think I found my oil flow problem

IMG 20240826 183427683
 
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sam61

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No, I bought it new and this is the first thing I've done to it besides oil changes. Never been off the farm.
 
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sam61

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Working on putting the engine back together and the manual says to check main shaft and crank shaft turns smoothly which they do untill you tighten the bolts then only the crank turns.
 
DG Rider

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Is there a check valve in the pump? I wonder if I'd be possible to rig up something in the oil filter boss to back flush through the filter and out the drain plug?
 
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Hello_Darkness

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Is there a check valve in the pump? I wonder if I'd be possible to rig up something in the oil filter boss to back flush through the filter and out the drain plug?

It's just gonna suck all that s*** back up into the screen again

And this only happens when there is a another issue, mainly clutches or water intrusion
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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It's just gonna suck all that s*** back up into the screen again

And this only happens when there is a another issue, mainly clutches or water intrusion
Not if you flush it out of the engine OUT OF THE DRAIN PLUG.

It's sad that several people have reported that dealers have told them it's no longer worth doing clutches on these.
 
Hello_Darkness

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Not if you flush it out of the engine OUT OF THE DRAIN PLUG.

It's sad that several people have reported that dealers have told them it's no longer worth doing clutches on these.

Most of that debris isn't making it out of the oil drain during to location and size.

Plus like I said it's not the symptom, it's the result of another problem that flushing won't fix.

The quotes people get for these engines is crazy. Pulling one of these takes maybe 4 hours if you do it my way and not the way Honda says
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

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Most of that debris isn't making it out of the oil drain during to location and size.

Plus like I said it's not the symptom, it's the result of another problem that flushing won't fix.

The quotes people get for these engines is crazy. Pulling one of these takes maybe 4 hours if you do it my way and not the way Honda says
I was thinking of a continued flushing cycle like some guys do with heater cores.
Pump oil in backwards, let it flow out, and then filter it, before it goes back in. The oil would suspend the a lot of the gunk long enough to get most of it out. Don't know if its even possible and yes, I know it's curing the symptom and not the cause, but if it gets a little more life out of it, it would be worth it. Itd also help the people who insist on driving through lakes.

I can't tell...that looks like sealant or string. THAT would be tough to get out.
 
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sam61

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found a couple of good videos on utube for putting this back together.
 
DRZRon1

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I was thinking of a continued flushing cycle like some guys do with heater cores.
Pump oil in backwards, let it flow out, and then filter it, before it goes back in. The oil would suspend the a lot of the gunk long enough to get most of it out. Don't know if its even possible and yes, I know it's curing the symptom and not the cause, but if it gets a little more life out of it, it would be worth it. Itd also help the people who insist on driving through lakes.

I can't tell...that looks like sealant or string. THAT would be tough to get out.
There was some savvy owner who filled it with diesel/etc. used air, etc and basically flushed the screen out - always worth a shot - if it gets more life out of it without yanking engine - well worth it. It’s on this site somewhere.
 
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sam61

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Have the engine back in but it won't start. Have spark, fuel, engine turns freely and I was very careful when putting the cam back in to line up all the timing marks. Any suggestions
 
DRZRon1

DRZRon1

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plug is wet?

u check compression?


you check all the electrical junk is plugged in, dented correctly?
 
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