P1000m5 Repurposing RZR Shocks

[Outacntrl]

So after my first ride in this thing yesterday I quickly realized the suspension department needs some help, and shocks seem to be a big topic around here. I scrounged through my RZR parts pile and found a set of Fox shocks off an old RZR S that I put Kings on still laying there. After some quick measurements it seemed like they would work, so I tore into it. I only have the RF on so far and no ride impressions yet, but they are at least adjustable. I will continue to update after they are all installed and I ride it.

Edit: Scratch this the LF spring won't clear the master cylinder. Even with the stock shock that is a tight fit.

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[Bones]

Dammit! Thought you were on to something there. They do need better suspension.

 

[aauman88]

If you used a bracket lift the shocks will clear

 

[Outacntrl]

If you used a bracket lift the shocks will clear

I ended up swapping the stock springs over to the Fox shocks and the fronts will work. Still haven't done anything with the back, not sure exactly what I want to do there.

 

[jaysouthernpaintcollision]

my 1000 tires are wearing on the inside I think shocks are wore out I always have a heavy load what can I do to fix this

 

[CumminsPusher]

my 1000 tires are wearing on the inside I think shocks are wore out I always have a heavy load what can I do to fix this

Check alignment

 

[fishinnut1986]

What was the final verdict on this? Did the stock Pioneer springs on the Fox shocks work out?

 

[Outacntrl]

What was the final verdict on this? Did the stock Pioneer springs on the Fox shocks work out?

They did work but I couldn't use the spring isolators and spacer and I didn't like how the spring was rubbing on the shock. I put the stock shocks back together and are running them for now. You could buy new springs that fit those shocks better and run them. I decided that after respringing and valving them they just weren't worth the effort. I'm just going to order some Elka's and be done with it.

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[fishinnut1986]

They did work but I couldn't use the spring isolators and spacer and I didn't like how the spring was rubbing on the shock. I put the stock shocks back together and are running them for now. You could buy new springs that fit those shocks better and run them. I decided that after respringing and valving them they just weren't worth the effort. I'm just going to order some Elka's and be done with it.

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So the stock Honda spring is too tight on the rzr shock body? I'm guessing the bottom of the threaded shock body was the part rubbing the spring?

 

[Outacntrl]

So the stock Honda spring is too tight on the rzr shock body? I'm guessing the bottom of the threaded shock body was the part rubbing the spring?

Correct. As someone else mentioned if your are running a lift that moves the upper shock mounts outboard, you could run the shocks with no modifications.

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[fishinnut1986]

Correct. As someone else mentioned if your are running a lift that moves the upper shock mounts outboard, you could run the shocks with no modifications.

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Thanks for the info, I see used Fox shocks for rzr's cheap everywhere and was hoping there was a easy way to make them work. $300-$500 vs $700+ for the fronts, looks like there is no cheaper option here.

 

[fishinnut1986]

Just finished my RZR / Pioneer Fox shock install, the shocks came off of the front of a 2010 RZR 4 800, bought them used on ebay. Full stroke on these are 19-3/4", almost identical to the stock Hondas. I have $360 total invested in this project, and would absolutely do it again.

The RZR springs will not work as they wont clear the master cylinder as Outacntrl stated earlier in this thread. You can use the Hondas and fab a bushing or buy a slimmer set without the middle spring bulge made for these shocks.

The Honda springs are a smaller diameter than the RZRs, I had to fab a bushing to mate the spring and the bottom keeper of the shocks to keep the spring from sliding off center and binding with the shock body. The Fox spring adjustment rings had to be flipped and the one with the spring keeper moved to the top. I haven't set the final spring preload yet be the initial test run around the farm at varying speeds and conditions was very promising / excellent.

Zero felt vibration at the steering wheel, the front end just floats now, really shows you how rough the factory rears are. I have no interest in changing the rears at the moment but will most likely do so down the road.

Notes: I unfortunately didn't take any pictures of the bushing I made but could possibly describe them if anyone's interested. The only parts used from the Honda shocks were the large spring washer "used at the top of the spring under the Fox adjustment rings" and the bottom spring keeper "used at the bottom of the spring with a bushing interfacing between it and the bottom Fox spring keeper" . Info for the project is next to impossible to find, I would only recommend it if you're handy and capable of some light fab work or have a local machine shop to make the bushings. You could take the two parts circled in the last picture to a machine shop and tell them to make a bushing to mate those two parts and be on your way.

Bushing can't be seen as it's inside the Honda spring keeper and interfacing with the inside of the Fox spring keeper lip, the RZR springs sit on the outside of this lip.

Bushing location:

Two parts that need a bushing to mate together:

All in all, I'm super pleased with the way they turned out and the ride is awesome with zero functional compromises.

 

[fishinnut1986]

I don't have the Honda lower spring keeper / seat or fox lower spring keeper / seat as they are installed on my Pioneer at the moment.

Just wanted to show you how I made the bushing using a 1-1/2" black iron pipe nipple, a machine shop no doubt could make the same part and look a lot nicer but I like doing things myself when possible.

You'll notice that I keep using the same words over and over, this is to make it easier for someone trying to figure this out from the beginning with little to no knowledge about suspension parts.

First, a reference picture for the parts about to be discussed. Red arrow is pointing to the Honda OEM lower spring keeper / seat. Blue arrow is pointing to the Fox spring keeper lip / seat.

First cut needs to be on the threads as this bevel fits snug inside the Honda lower spring keeper. The bevel of the threads ensures that the bushing cannot slip through the Honda lower spring keeper, stays nice and snug.

Second cut is off of the threads on the flat part of the nipple cut to the depth of the Fox lower spring keeper lip minus the Honda spring keeper.

I then grinded the flat portion to a slight bevel until the bushing & O-ring "coming up later" would fit perfectly inside of the Fox lower spring keeper lip/seat.

Smoothed up the threads for no real reason to be honest, don't go crazy here as it needs to fit snug inside the bottom of the Honda shock keeper.

Add the O-ring and done. I primed and painted mine before installing them for rust resistance over time.

Red arrow portion goes into the bottom of the Honda lower shock keeper, blue arrow with O-ring fits snug inside the lip of the Fox lower spring keeper. You may have to go back and forth to the grinder until the o-ring fits nicely inside the Fox spring keeper / seat. Used the o-ring to eliminate any side to side movement where the two parts meet.

Not the prettiest part ever made but it works exactly as intended.

Last picture shows where the bushing is in relation to the other parts. Don't make fun of my windows paint skills!

Here's a non marked up picture for reference. Tire is flexed out in this pick if you're wondering why there is no shock shaft is visible.

And there you have it, a little redneck engineering. Improvise. Adapt, Overcome.