P1000 Reset the DCT Clutch / Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure Pioneer 1000 / Talon 1000

[JACKAL]

Honda Pioneer/Talon 1000 Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure
Applies to both the Pioneer and the Talon.

Before starting this procedure, check the following:
· PGM-FI system & DTC system have no codes
· Engine speed idle is normal
· Sub-transmission in in “P” (parking) and cooling fan stops.

1. Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature 122-230 degrees F
   NOTE:
   - If the PCM is replaced with a new one, when the ignition switch is turned on the “MT” indicator [1] and the “AT” indicator [2] will be displayed to indicate that the clutch initialization learning procedure is necessary.
   - If the large “U” (extremely low oil temperature indicator) or the small “U” (low oil temperature indicator) is displayed on the gear position indicator [3] the engine must be warmed before proceeding.
   
   
   
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (l). The MIL [1] will come on. Wait until the MIL goes off and the gear position indicator [2] displays “P”.
   NOTE: Do not turn ignition switch to START (ll), If the motor is running the learning process will be cancelled.
   
   
3. Depress the accelerator pedal fully.
4. Release the accelerator pedal.
5. Depress the accelerator pedal fully.
6. Release the accelerator pedal.
7. Depress the acceleration pedal fully AND HOLD IT!
   
   
8. Move the shift select lever to “L” (low range) position. Check that the gear position indicator [1] displays “L”.
9. Move the shift select lever to “P” (parking) position. Check that the gear position indicator [1] displays “P”.
10. Move the shift select lever to “L” (low range) position. Check that the gear position indicator displays “L”.
11. Move the shift select lever to “P” (parking) position. Check that the gear position indicator displays “P”.
12. Release the accelerator pedal. Check that “-“ is displayed on the gear position indicator [1] and blinks at an interval of 2 seconds, and both the “MT” [2] and the “AT” [3] indicator are displayed in the bottom center of the digital gauge.
    
    
    
    NOTE:
    - The PCM is ready to clutch initialize learning when the “-“ is displayed and starts blinking at an interval of 2 seconds.
    - The PCM did not accept to start clutch initialize learning if the gear position indicator continues to display “P”. Perform the initialize learning procedure from step 1 again.
    
    
13. Start the engine and let idle for approximately 60 seconds. The clutch initialize learning is successful when the “-“ on the gear position indicator [1], “MT” indicator [2], and “AT” indicator [3] disappear.
    
14. Stop the engine.
15. Turn the ignition switch on. Check that the gear position indicator displays “P” and either the “MT” or the “AT” indicator comes on.

NOTE:
· If the “-“ starts blinking at an interval of ½ second, the clutch learning is unsuccessful. Perform the process again starting at Step 1.

· If the large “U” (extremely low oil temperature) or the small “u” (low oil temperature) is displayed on the gear position indicator, warm up the engine until the “L” on the gear position indicator goes off. Stop the engine and perform the procedure from Step 2 again.

· If both the “MT” & “AT” indicator are displayed, the clutch initialize learning is not complete.

 

[dale5740]

ok so if u are going to do this what is the best way to drive during the learning process? do u drive like u would normally out on the trails? or do u go slow and smooth? I would think that u would want it to learn the way an individual would drive.

 

[JACKAL]

ok so if u are going to do this what is the best way to drive during the learning process? do u drive like u would normally out on the trails? or do u go slow and smooth? I would think that u would want it to learn the way an individual would drive.

I drove it normal for about 10 miles both times I reset mine letting it shift up and down through all six gears at least a dozen times. I was going on back roads up to 45 mph. It didn't however make any difference in my situation.

 

[orange1954]

the learning process is completed during step 13.... In park, assuming "-", at,Mt go away. Once you key off and start it back up, you're ready to go. Driving style afterwards doesn't matter.

 

[dale5740]

OK for those that want to try and reset the Pioneer 1000 DCT clutches so it can "relearn" the shifting etc. Below is the process. I completed this, "Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure" twice successfully after experiencing the delayed shifting in 3rd and 5th gears. However it did not correct my issues. Normally under modest to moderate acceleration the Pioneer 1000 will shift at approximately 4000 RPM for 2nd through 6th gears. When it is delayed in shifting for 3rd & 5th gears the RPM will spike to about 5200 RPM when shifting into 3rd and 5th gears only. Without further ado below is the process.


Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Initialize Learning Procedure

Before starting this procedure, check the following:
· PGM-FI system & DTC system have no codes
· Engine speed idle is normal
· Sub-transmission in in “P” (parking) and cooling fan stops.

1. Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature 122-230 degrees F
NOTE:
· If the PCM is replaced with a new one, when the ignition switch is turned on the “MT” indicator [1] and the “AT” indicator [2] will be displayed to indicate that the clutch initialization learning procedure is necessary.
· If the large “U” (extremely low oil temperature indicator) or the small “U” (low oil temperature indicator) is displayed on the gear position indicator [3] the engine must be warmed before proceeding.View attachment 11284



2. Turn the ignition switch ON (l). The MIL [1] will come on. Wait until the MIL goes off and the gear position indicator [2] displays “P”.

· NOTE: Do not turn ignition switch to START (ll), If the motor is running the learning process will be cancelled.

3. Depress the accelerator pedal fully.
4. Release the accelerator pedal.
5. Depress the accelerator pedal fully.
6. Release the accelerator pedal.
7. Depress the acceleration pedal fully and hold it

8. Move the shift select lever to “L” (low range) position. Check that the gear position indicator [1] displays “L”.
View attachment 11287

9. Move the shift select lever to “P” (parking) position. Check that the gear position indicator [1] displays “P”.
10. Move the shift select lever to “L” (low range) position. Check that the gear position indicator displays “L”.
11. Move the shift select lever to “P” (parking) position. Check that the gear position indicator displays “P”.
12. Release the accelerator pedal. Check that “-“ is displayed on the gear position indicator [1] and blinks at an interval of 2 seconds, and both the “MT” [2] and the “AT” [3] indicator are displayed in the bottom center of the digital gauge.
View attachment 11285

NOTE:
· The PCM is ready to clutch initialize learning when the “-“ is displayed and starts blinking at an interval of 2 seconds.
· The PCM did not accept to start clutch initialize learning if the gear position indicator continues to display “P”. Perform the initialize learning procedure from step 1 again.


13. Start the engine and let idle for approximately 60 seconds. The clutch initialize learning is successful when the “-“ on the gear position indicator [1], “MT” indicator [2], and “AT” indicator [3] disappear.
View attachment 11286

14. Stop the engine.
15. Turn the ignition switch on. Check that the gear position indicator displays “P” and either the “MT” or the “AT” indicator comes on.

NOTE:
· If the “-“ starts blinking at an interval of ½ second, the clutch learning is unsuccessful. Perform the process again starting at Step 1.

· If the large “U” (extremely low oil temperature) or the small “u” (low oil temperature) is displayed on the gear position indicator, warm up the engine until the “L” on the gear position indicator goes off. Stop the engine and perform the procedure from Step 2 again.

· If both the “MT” & “AT” indicator are displayed, the clutch initialize learning is not complete.

for what reason would one want to preform this procedure other than trying to fix the burn clutch issue assuming we weren't faced with this issue?

 

[CashMoney]

for what reason would one want to preform this procedure other than trying to fix the burn clutch issue assuming we weren't faced with this issue?

I believe its actually supposed to be done any time you work on the clutch.

 

[JACKAL]

for what reason would one want to preform this procedure other than trying to fix the burn clutch issue assuming we weren't faced with this issue?

When you replace or disassemble the clutch or mess with the PGM computer that controls the clutch and transmission, you would complete the Initialization Learning Procedure.

 

[Hondasxs]

@CumminsPusher

 

[CumminsPusher]

@CumminsPusher

Thank you very much @Hondasxs! And thank you @JACKAL for the post!

 

[AKRider]

Ok, any of you that read my intial problems with the machine not displaying the correct drive mode, etc.... those have all been fixed. I did the ajustment a couple of times and drove it like it should be driven. What didn't get resolved is both the AT and MT indicators have remained lit. The machine is performing flawlessly but this annoys the crap out of me. After reading this post again today I realized that maybe I need to do this procedure.

Well, it doesn't work for me. I can never get the display to flash "-", and I cant get the AT and MT indicators to extinguish. Do I need to adjust the shift cable? I've adjusted the drive mode cable, but not the shift cable.

I truly love this machine but these little BS things are pissing me off. Now I find the front left shock leaking all over my garage floor... grrr. I have two hunting trips coming up. One this weekend and one next weekend. I can deal with the AT/MT display issue, but a leaking shock isn't good for where I go.

I've challenged my 2004 Rancher and previously owned 2005 Rincon much more than what I've asked this machine to do and neither failed me. Honda really dropped the ball on this machine. Walker Evans is in my future. It's sad that Honda didn't think through their flagship SxS.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Ak I'm sorry to here of the shock leaking already that is unbelievable in my opinion. Shocks should sure as hell last over a year. Maybe that could be covered? I know it's a wear item but they may do it.
As for your twin light deal I would assume this would fix it. Auto/Manual modes are electronic based not cable. I might be off base here but IMO adjusting the cables wouldn't fix that, I haven't had that happen without having the transmission apart to cause it so not entirely positive but sure don't see it. I would try the reset one more time to make sure the steps were all done. From all ive read from you the two modes have worked correctly so if that doesn't take care of it you may have to go to the dealership. I know the dealer is a hassle for you being where your at but i think that's your best option might kill two birds at once. I'm really sorry Ak! I hate seeing you have problems


Sent from iPhone

 

[AKRider]

Ak I'm sorry to here of the shock leaking already that is unbelievable in my opinion. Shocks should sure as hell last over a year. Maybe that could be covered? I know it's a wear item but they may do it.
As for your twin light deal I would assume this would fix it. Auto/Manual modes are electronic based not cable. I might be off base here but IMO adjusting the cables wouldn't fix that, I haven't had that happen without having the transmission apart to cause it so not entirely positive but sure don't see it. I would try the reset one more time to make sure the steps were all done. From all ive read from you the two modes have worked correctly so if that doesn't take care of it you may have to go to the dealership. I know the dealer is a hassle for you being where your at but i think that's your best option might kill two birds at once. I'm really sorry Ak! I hate seeing you have problems


Sent from iPhone

I think I'm just going to go with the aftermarket shocks. I haven't liked the originals from the start. It's just a lot of money to do it. As for the MT/AT issue, I did it 5 times in a row. I will try it again after taking it out for a ride. This time I just started the machine and let it warm up in the garage. Maybe taking it for a ride will get the clutches warmed up. Who knows!

 

[CumminsPusher]

I'm sorry Ak that sucks


Sent from iPhone

 

[AKRider]

I'm sorry Ak that sucks


Sent from iPhone

Thanks, CP. It's all good. Still love the machine

 

[Bayouownbeer]

I think I'm just going to go with the aftermarket shocks. I haven't liked the originals from the start. It's just a lot of money to do it. As for the MT/AT issue, I did it 5 times in a row. I will try it again after taking it out for a ride. This time I just started the machine and let it warm up in the garage. Maybe taking it for a ride will get the clutches warmed up. Who knows!

I was unsuccessful first few times I tried it. I warmed up the machine, turned it off and started with step #2 you have to do the steps relatively quick or it won't recognize it is what I noticed. I was able to do it back to back afterward to steps quickly.

 

[Bayouownbeer]

Ok, any of you that read my intial problems with the machine not displaying the correct drive mode, etc.... those have all been fixed. I did the ajustment a couple of times and drove it like it should be driven. What didn't get resolved is both the AT and MT indicators have remained lit. The machine is performing flawlessly but this annoys the crap out of me. After reading this post again today I realized that maybe I need to do this procedure.

Well, it doesn't work for me. I can never get the display to flash "-", and I cant get the AT and MT indicators to extinguish. Do I need to adjust the shift cable? I've adjusted the drive mode cable, but not the shift cable.

I truly love this machine but these little BS things are pissing me off. Now I find the front left shock leaking all over my garage floor... grrr. I have two hunting trips coming up. One this weekend and one next weekend. I can deal with the AT/MT display issue, but a leaking shock isn't good for where I go.

I've challenged my 2004 Rancher and previously owned 2005 Rincon much more than what I've asked this machine to do and neither failed me. Honda really dropped the ball on this machine. Walker Evans is in my future. It's sad that Honda didn't think through their flagship SxS.

Have you disconnected the battery to reset computer ?

 

[AKRider]

I was unsuccessful first few times I tried it. I warmed up the machine, turned it off and started with step #2 you have to do the steps relatively quick or it won't recognize it is what I noticed. I was able to do it back to back afterward to steps quickly.

With that info I'll keep trying it. Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[AKRider]

Have you disconnected the battery to reset computer ?

Not recently. The last time was a couple of months ago when adding accessories. Easy enough to do though. I just didn't think I would need to for this.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[AKRider]

I was unsuccessful first few times I tried it. I warmed up the machine, turned it off and started with step #2 you have to do the steps relatively quick or it won't recognize it is what I noticed. I was able to do it back to back afterward to steps quickly.

That did it! I guess I was doing it too slow. Hopefully it didn't hurt anything running it for a few hundred miles with this needing done. Again, I just thought it was part of my original issue.

Now to figure out which aftermarket shocks to get for the front. That left front is really leaking. I'm looking at Elka and Walker Evans right now. I don't think Fox has anything out for us yet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[CumminsPusher]

i was really figuring it would. Thanks @Bayouownbeer for your suggestion to do it faster.