Fudamentaly it doesn’t work. Your spring is compressed X amount to support Y load. After you add a lift kit the spring will still be compressed X amount but now you have moved the range the knuckle travels in.
More stress on the drive line and no change in spring rate.
(X and Y is engineer speak for stuff you wouldn’t understand if need to ask)
I really like that rear winch mount.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I also get what you are doing. @nbomar wanted to avoid a lift but in the end had the preload turned up so high that it made more sense to go with lift and let the shocks work better.
But I don’t know how much preload you are at now
Is this where I say "Well bless your heart"?
Each wheel will support the same load.
(ok technically as you get further from the center of the earth the effect of gravity dose go down but you didn't say you wanted to clear 5 gallon buckets and pose on liebook).
So to support that same load the spring will compress the same amount.
You can change the amount of pre-load on the spring to archive a given ride bight.
But the total spring compression will be the same and therefore the effective spring rate (or the wheel rate).
So there will be no improvement in ride comfort.
Or make it worse! Springs are designed to support a certain weight, not ground clearance. The preload adjustment is to set spring sag, that is, jack your machine up until the shocks a fully extended, tires still on the ground, measure ground clearance, ride a little, measure ground clearance with passengers, beer, tools in the ride,that you usually haul, that will be your spring sag. If my ride has compression adjustments a spring sag of 2 to 3 inches is a good place to start, Adjust spring tension until you get 2 to 3 inches of spring sag, then start messing with the compression adjustments, if you are bottoming out, stiffen your compression and if you never bottom out back it down until you do on the hardest hits. If you stiffen your compression to the max and still bottoms out all the time, it's time to start all over, stiffen the preload on your springs and start over with compression adjustments. And the reverse works, may have to go back to the spring adjustment and let some tension off, if you have compression completely backed down and no bottoming. You want to bottom out occasionally. Kinda like having a long pecker and using half of it!Is this where I say "Well bless your heart"?
Each wheel will support the same load.
(ok technically as you get further from the center of the earth the effect of gravity dose go down but you didn't say you wanted to clear 5 gallon buckets and pose on liebook).
So to support that same load the spring will compress the same amount.
You can change the amount of pre-load on the spring to archive a given ride bight.
But the total spring compression will be the same and therefore the effective spring rate (or the wheel rate).
So there will be no improvement in ride comfort.
Well I found 3 pair of these at Tractor supply for $36 so I decided I would try them. They will fit a 28.5” tire I’m not sure thy have the length to go around a true 30” tire.
View attachment 67922
Time to adjust and adapt ...... lolKinda like having a long pecker and using half of it!
Why not just buy those to begin with?To use with a 30" tire you will need to replace the straps with these from Harbor Freight.
2 in. x 16 ft. E-Track Tie Down Strap
Or make it worse! Springs are designed to support a certain weight, not ground clearance. The preload adjustment is to set spring sag, that is, jack your machine up until the shocks a fully extended, tires still on the ground, measure ground clearance, ride a little, measure ground clearance with passengers, beer, tools in the ride,that you usually haul, that will be your spring sag. If my ride has compression adjustments a spring sag of 2 to 3 inches is a good place to start, Adjust spring tension until you get 2 to 3 inches of spring sag, then start messing with the compression adjustments, if you are bottoming out, stiffen your compression and if you never bottom out back it down until you do on the hardest hits. If you stiffen your compression to the max and still bottoms out all the time, it's time to start all over, stiffen the preload on your springs and start over with compression adjustments. And the reverse works, may have to go back to the spring adjustment and let some tension off, if you have compression completely backed down and no bottoming. You want to bottom out occasionally. Kinda like having a long pecker and using half of it!
Still need track to tie down. This just replaces the straps that are to short when you go 30"sWhy not just buy those to begin with?
I found "spots" (holes/openings) in the under-frame I could place the hooks in and ratchet it down. Works great, pull the rear ones forward, and the front ones backwards.Well I found 3 pair of these at Tractor supply for $36 so I decided I would try them. They will fit a 28.5” tire I’m not sure thy have the length to go around a true 30” tire.
View attachment 67922
And then it can be the other way, have a short pecker! HA!Time to adjust and adapt ...... lol
And then it can be the other way, have a short pecker! HA!
It just takes a little time, I haven't had much time to mess with mine. And haven't put very many trail miles on yet. After Mulberry went two clicks stiffer on the high and two clicks softer on the slow speed compression, think I'm getting close! And it's going to be sweet!Fox QS3 only have pre-load, and 3 settings. (I have dual springs so I have the ability to adjust spring crossover)
I have them set to stock ride height with stock tires. There’s just more weight than bone stock.
Works pretty good on softest for most riding and technical trails, mid for faster rough trails, and hardest if I feel like getting some airtime.
I’d NEVER get the stage 5 Elkas adjusted.
View attachment 67934
@lee This is where I say bless my heart ... so are you saying that preload adjustment does not affect ride comfort?Is this where I say "Well bless your heart"?
Each wheel will support the same load.
(ok technically as you get further from the center of the earth the effect of gravity dose go down but you didn't say you wanted to clear 5 gallon buckets and pose on liebook).
So to support that same load the spring will compress the same amount.
You can change the amount of pre-load on the spring to archive a given ride bight.
But the total spring compression will be the same and therefore the effective spring rate (or the wheel rate).
So there will be no improvement in ride comfort.
When that happens, you are just out of luck ..... lolAnd then it can be the other way, have a short pecker! HA!
I found "spots" (holes/openings) in the under-frame I could place the hooks in and ratchet it down. Works great, pull the rear ones forward, and the front ones backwards.