I'm on here quite a bit, learnin and reading about everyone's trials, solutions, and fun. What a great resource this forum is! I have done several mods based on what i learned on this forum. But honestly have been frustrated with the search tab. I've used it with some success at times, but most of the time it doesn't seem to work well for me. Not sure how a guy could screw that up lol, but for some reason it won't pull up threads I know I've read before and want to review again. Hope OP DirtyDusty has better luck.
If I wanna find something on this site that I know I've read in the past, go to Google. Type in your key words and then hondasxs.com. And then hit search.
Yup, the search is Fuced up right now. Hondasxs is working in that. Fo what @TripleB suggested.
Both A-arm kits will work with your LE model. Just make sure to check the year fitment. Both will also fit up to a 31" tire. Not sure why that was never fixed on the website. I've told the website guy like 50 times to fix it. 🤣
I click the search bar then click advanced, type in all keywords and it seems to work pretty good for me.
If you google it, it will usually bring up a hondasxs post
Hey, not trying to hijack the OP thread, but I have a relevant question about A-arms. I have a 2016 P 1000-3 that I use for light to moderate off roading at work as a pipeline inspector. I use this basically for work, no crazy off roading. I have take-offs from a Honda Talon (15" rims w/28" tires), no wheel spacers and it seems to work just fine, no travel issues. I am looking at upgrading the A arms, and I was comparing and contrasting the Super ATV offset A arms and the Atlas ones, to get some height and length. Other than the size of the tubing, is there any real difference between them? I also figure to replace the bushings, and the ball joints at the same time (why not, right?). What would you recommend, the Atlas A arms, or the "regular" Super ATV A arms? Also, would you recommend the front frame stiffener kit, with or without the weld-in gusset kit? Are they compatible with each other, or mutually exclusive, or some combination thereof? And of course Rhino or Rhino 2.0 axles, HD ball joints or Kellar ball joints, HD bushings.
Lots of great questions, @ClayWelder .
Yea, you forgot to post the discount code for March !!!
Just rewatched Animal House.Lots of great questions, @ClayWelder .
It doesn't sound like you are doing anything super crazy, so the basic forward arms would work fine for you and you'd save a few bucks. BUT...........The Atlas Pro arms are definitely the best option out there. Super beefy. You'll never bend or break one....and if you do somehow....you'll have way bigger issues to worry about. Lol!
With both arms you can run up to a 31" tire. That's before adding spacers. I'm not quite sure if adding wheel spacers will effect the max tire size...but its possible because you're wider, thus pushing the wheel further into the wheel well. If you're sticking with a 28" you'll never have to worry about that. And even if you do go up to a 31" with wheel spacers and find some rubbing....it will be very minimal, if at all, and only in the most extreme situations.
Its a good time to go through all the bushings, bearings, and ball joints while doing this so you can knock it all out at once with good fresh parts.
For axles, definitely go with the Rhino 2.0. Easily the best bang for the buck out there. Can't beat them.
Ball joints....our HD ball joints are awesome. Keller's are awesome too. Either way you go, you can't lose.
For the frame stiffener, I highly recommend it. The Pioneer frame tabs are notoriously weak and flimsy. That should suffice, and you wouldn't have to worry about the weld in gusset kit I wouldn't think.
For wheel spacers, I'd always go wider unless you are limited to a certain width by trails or by your trailer. I've ran wheel spacers on every machine I've had.
I think I answered everything you asked. Pretty sure. If I missed something, I'm always here checking in. Feel free to PM me if you ever need anything or if you are going to pull the trigger and want the forum member discount code.
Sorry for the long-winded answer, but I think I have it all covered.
Thank you for the long winded reply!! I like details, its my kind of thing. I think that the regular A-arms, and the HD ball joints will probably be enough, although I like the fact that the Keller ball joints are greaseable and rebuildable. I have the frame stiffener already, I never mounted it because I need to do a lot of grinding to get the slots and holes to line up. Evidently, it is "known" to sometimes need a lot of "massaging" to get it to fit properly, plus I will need to trim my skid plates. Maybe later in the year, as I am out working on the pipeline for the time being lols. And I have wheel spacers in 2" already.Lots of great questions, @ClayWelder .
It doesn't sound like you are doing anything super crazy, so the basic forward arms would work fine for you and you'd save a few bucks. BUT...........The Atlas Pro arms are definitely the best option out there. Super beefy. You'll never bend or break one....and if you do somehow....you'll have way bigger issues to worry about. Lol!
With both arms you can run up to a 31" tire. That's before adding spacers. I'm not quite sure if adding wheel spacers will effect the max tire size...but its possible because you're wider, thus pushing the wheel further into the wheel well. If you're sticking with a 28" you'll never have to worry about that. And even if you do go up to a 31" with wheel spacers and find some rubbing....it will be very minimal, if at all, and only in the most extreme situations.
Its a good time to go through all the bushings, bearings, and ball joints while doing this so you can knock it all out at once with good fresh parts.
For axles, definitely go with the Rhino 2.0. Easily the best bang for the buck out there. Can't beat them.
Ball joints....our HD ball joints are awesome. Keller's are awesome too. Either way you go, you can't lose.
For the frame stiffener, I highly recommend it. The Pioneer frame tabs are notoriously weak and flimsy. That should suffice, and you wouldn't have to worry about the weld in gusset kit I wouldn't think.
For wheel spacers, I'd always go wider unless you are limited to a certain width by trails or by your trailer. I've ran wheel spacers on every machine I've had.
I think I answered everything you asked. Pretty sure. If I missed something, I'm always here checking in. Feel free to PM me if you ever need anything or if you are going to pull the trigger and want the forum member discount code.
Sorry for the long-winded answer, but I think I have it all covered.
OK, my question is what are the max CV angle differences between the stock angles and the Rhino 2.0?
I am not sure what OE max is but @SuperATV describes theirs as:
The reason for my question is that the eye to eye length on stock P1k5 shocks is 20” how in the world are the TTC A-arms giving a 3 or 6” lift without putting the CV joints in a bind? Additionally, why does SATV recommend using stops on the steering rack make sense when the stock A-arms don’t need them. Seems to me that the stock A-arms (front) actually have the spindles a little rear of center so if the max cv angle is greater with the Rhino 2.0 axles, why are the steering stops required? I like the fact that I can turn a lot tighter than the Polaris machines that I’m normally riding with.
As for the steering stops I didn't install them when I installed my SuperATV arms. At full turn the tie rod would touch the brake line. I rerouted both brake lines and haven't had any trouble. I have stock axles
I was under the impression @SuperATV recommended the stops when installing their arms. Their arms add the arch for clearance but also move the wheel position forward. So the axles now have a different angle than OEM arms. The steering stops are then meant to protect axles, arm rub, CV bind, ect.. Most people I see on here do not use the steering stops. I use them for peace of mind. I can say from experience you do lose a bit of tight cornering ability.
