P1000 Seizmik Bed Extender 1000-5: bug fix with pivot point

JiminAZ

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So one of the very first things that I installed on my 2019 1000-5 was a Seizmik bed extender X10D. I had ordered it before picking up the new Pioneer, and installed it immediately as we were leaving on a hunting trip 24 hours after picking up the rig.

Install per the instructions went fine. The bed extender worked great during the hunting trip. I gives much needed real estate when deployed, and folds up out of the way when not in use.

IMG 2986


On a later ride with my wife, we heard a clatter from the back and discovered that one of the through bolts on the pivot bushings had vibrated loose. At this point the rig had maybe 320-350 miles on it. Seizmik specifies a threaded M8 bolt (30 mm long IIRC) and the design just wasn't adequate for the job. There were two problems. First, the bolt itself was not long enough to positively engage the nylon insert in the nut. That's why it vibrated loose. Second, running a smooth plastic bushing ID against a threaded bolt is pretty bush league. The threads had begun to wear/dig into the bushings.

Sorry but I didn't get a picture of the thread damage to the bushings. I did take a photo of the opposite side bolt and nut as installed and you can see insufficient thread engagement into the nut's nylon insert. Because as designed it relies on the nylon insert to hold the nut in the correct position, you can't tighten it past a certain point without putting the bushing arrangement into a bind and preventing proper pivoting.

IMG 3457
IMG 3458


So I wandered down to my handy local ACE Hardware and found a proper shoulder bolt to solve the problem. Turns out they had one (and I failed to write down the callout it was something like M10 x 25). At any rate it has a 10 mm ground smooth OD and an 8mm threaded stub. You can see the original bolt/nylon inserted flange nut and the shoulder bolt/non inserted flange nut here.

IMG 3459


Dug around in my drill set and found that 13/32 was about .010" larger than the 10 mm diameter on the new bolt.

IMG 3460
IMG 3461


Drilled the thread damaged bushings out and ran the new bolt in there. You can see that the new bolt's shoulder is just the right length to run the nut down hard against the shoulder (with blue Loctite) and now that dude pivots as smooth as a baby's behind and the nut isn't going to come off because it is hard against the shoulder and loctited.

IMG 3463
IMG 3466
IMG 3465

IMG 3467


After several subsequent trips it is all staying put and staying quiet. Only issue is surface rust has appeared on the non plated carbon steel bolt. I need to figure out a solution for that (maybe just keep it oiled). Here you can see that the new bolt head is larger than the original, but still clears the assembly when it pivots.

IMG 3470


Overall the bed extender is a slick enhancement on the 1000-5 when you are using the back seats. Seismik got it 98% right: just goofed a bit on the pivot execution and it is easily addressed. I did talk to them on the phone about this so hopefully they will address the issue on future revisions of the design.

ETA: There are four pivot points where this problem could occur. So you will need four sets of shoulder bolts and flange nuts to do this job. There is no reason that you could not reuse the factory supplied flange nuts. Also, I used Blue Loctite to secure the nuts.
 
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sugarray

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Hmmm. I just installed mine and haven't ridden, I'll check it out tonight.
 
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JiminAZ

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I'd also add that the easiest fix may just be to use a longer bolt that engages the nylon locking feature in the nut. Doesn't solve the threads digging into the bushings issue but still would likely work just fine. And you could replace the bushings at a future date if they got too torn up. Seismik seems to have a good attitude about sending out needed parts. In both of my conversations with them they indicated readiness to send parts no charge.

Or you could Loctite the provided bolt/nut arrangement if it is too short.
 
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Formula1

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I am looking at getting one of these after comparing it to a few others. Did they indicate when this would be updated?
 
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sugarray

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I am looking at getting one of these after comparing it to a few others. Did they indicate when this would be updated?

I don't have any problem from mine
 
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Formula1

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Just ordered one! I like how it's squared off and provides that extra space. One question, when it's deployed does it lock to prevent it from bouncing up and down?
 
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JiminAZ

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I am looking at getting one of these after comparing it to a few others. Did they indicate when this would be updated?
They made no commitment to change the product at all, only to examine the issue. Sorry I don’t know any more than that.
 
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JiminAZ

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Just ordered one! I like how it's squared off and provides that extra space. One question, when it's deployed does it lock to prevent it from bouncing up and down?
Yes it does. The hinged arms that form the sides secure it.
 
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Formula1

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Thank you, either way it's not a deal breaker and seems to be a simple fix.
 
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Vikes79

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So one of the very first things that I installed on my 2019 1000-5 was a Seizmik bed extender X10D. I had ordered it before picking up the new Pioneer, and installed it immediately as we were leaving on a hunting trip 24 hours after picking up the rig.

Install per the instructions went fine. The bed extender worked great during the hunting trip. I gives much needed real estate when deployed, and folds up out of the way when not in use.

View attachment 177406

On a later ride with my wife, we heard a clatter from the back and discovered that one of the through bolts on the pivot bushings had vibrated loose. At this point the rig had maybe 320-350 miles on it. Seizmik specifies a threaded M8 bolt (30 mm long IIRC) and the design just wasn't adequate for the job. There were two problems. First, the bolt itself was not long enough to positively engage the nylon insert in the nut. That's why it vibrated loose. Second, running a smooth plastic bushing ID against a threaded bolt is pretty bush league. The threads had begun to wear/dig into the bushings.

Sorry but I didn't get a picture of the thread damage to the bushings. I did take a photo of the opposite side bolt and nut as installed and you can see insufficient thread engagement into the nut's nylon insert. Because as designed it relies on the nylon insert to hold the nut in the correct position, you can't tighten it past a certain point without putting the bushing arrangement into a bind and preventing proper pivoting.

View attachment 177408 View attachment 177409

So I wandered down to my handy local ACE Hardware and found a proper shoulder bolt to solve the problem. Turns out they had one (and I failed to write down the callout it was something like M10 x 25). At any rate it has a 10 mm ground smooth OD and an 8mm threaded stub. You can see the original bolt/nylon inserted flange nut and the shoulder bolt/non inserted flange nut here.

View attachment 177410

Dug around in my drill set and found that 13/32 was about .010" larger than the 10 mm diameter on the new bolt.

View attachment 177411 View attachment 177412

Drilled the thread damaged bushings out and ran the new bolt in there. You can see that the new bolt's shoulder is just the right length to run the nut down hard against the shoulder (with blue Loctite) and now that dude pivots as smooth as a baby's behind and the nut isn't going to come off because it is hard against the shoulder and loctited.

View attachment 177413 View attachment 177415 View attachment 177414
View attachment 177416

After several subsequent trips it is all staying put and staying quiet. Only issue is surface rust has appeared on the non plated carbon steel bolt. I need to figure out a solution for that (maybe just keep it oiled). Here you can see that the new bolt head is larger than the original, but still clears the assembly when it pivots.

View attachment 177418

Overall the bed extender is a slick enhancement on the 1000-5 when you are using the back seats. Seismik got it 98% right: just goofed a bit on the pivot execution and it is easily addressed. I did talk to them on the phone about this so hopefully they will address the issue on future revisions of the design.

ETA: There are four pivot points where this problem could occur. So you will need four sets of shoulder bolts and flange nuts to do this job. There is no reason that you could not reuse the factory supplied flange nuts. Also, I used Blue Loctite to secure the nuts.

Nice writeup on your fix.

👍

How do you like the extension other wise?

Would it be possible to take along a spare tire in the same space plus a nice sized cooler? Maybe a fuel can?

I ask as I really don’t need a spare or fuel can always mounted to my P1k5 around the farm, but would like a way or space to have it along when I’m on trail riding trips w/o taking stuff on and off all the time.
 
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JiminAZ

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How do you like the extension other wise?

Would it be possible to take along a spare tire in the same space plus a nice sized cooler? Maybe a fuel can?

I ask as I really don’t need a spare or fuel can always mounted to my P1k5 around the farm, but would like a way or space to have it along when I’m on trail riding trips w/o taking stuff on and off all the time.

Sorry it took me so long to get back with you. I was out of town.

Overall I am very happy with the extension. A spare won't fit back there if you have the rear seats up. I took a measurement and it is 25" or so from the back of the seat to the inside of the extension. Note I didn’t have the left arm swung into position and locked in place for the quick measurement photo.

I fit a cooler back there all the time. Have my spare mounted up on the ROPS.

573B9F02 FC82 4658 B316 A12D1F516048
 
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Formula1

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So I started installing mine tonight. I've ran in to two issues so far.
1. The bolts that go through the rubber bumper and tie down are not long enough if you have the Honda rear bumper.

2. The washer that goes on the tie down is too big and the holes do not line up.

Hopefully I can find a longer bolt tomorrow and I guess I'll just either grind down one side of the washer or look for smaller ones.

A30D8450 ABC8 46BD 8AB8 72DD55D8E017 CD61C6D7 F688 4A1B 902E 32CB01228E4A
 
JiminAZ

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Your post reminds me. I had to open up the keyhole that pops over the bolt head for the sides to lock in to. Was a touch tight and a little time with a round file took care of it.
 
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Formula1

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After two trips to the hardware store I finally got it installed. I also had to make the keyhole bigger. I ended up just stacking washers between the tie down and bump stop to make it work. Overall it's very nice and I'm happy I got it but it's disappointing having to modify something so many times that's suppose to bolt right up.

F0A0F445 492B 4B9B 9217 C5270C19559D
 
jmanAZ

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HI JiminAZ,

Two things:

1. I'm Also in AZ, Tuc, and I was wondering where you got the extender - online or somewhere in AZ?

2. I was dead set on the JEI, but now that I've seen this I'm torn. The JEI, to me, looks much more sturdier, but not seeing either one in person I could be wrong. For the most part I will always have it extended, so the fold up inst that important, but the Siezmic just looks sweet.
 
Formula1

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I'm very happy with the Seizmic now and their support is top notch. I sent in pictures of mine and we had several email exchanges back and forth so they could make the proper changes for a 2020 model and also for the Honda factory bumper. In the end they sent me a set of mirrors for free. Probably the best customer support I have experienced.
 
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jmanAZ

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I'm very happy with the Seizmic now and their support is top notch. I sent in pictures of mine and we had several email exchanges back and forth so they could make the proper changes for a 2020 model and also for the Honda factory bumper. In the end they sent me a set of mirrors for free. Probably the best customer support I have experienced.
So if I buy one from a vendor, right now, it may not fit the 2020 stock correctly?
 
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Formula1

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Possibly yes. If you don't have the oem bumper then it's really only a matter of enlarging the hole where the extender locks on and getting smaller washers for the bumper.
 
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jmanAZ

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I was dead set on buying this today and then I saw the dreaded words "made in China". Now I'm torn. I don't want some garbage welds. The JEI one is bigger and bulkier, but at least I can count on the quality.
 
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