Shock issue. What to do?

[PhilCod]

So my Talon has about 370 miles on it. On the last trip I noticed a loud banging noise on the rear drivers side. Sure enough it was a shock bottoming out. I have already taken the shocks off once and replaced the tender springs with the ones from Bandit. For this issue I figured the shock had probably leaked all the air out through the rubber bladder on the bottom of the shock. This is common with the Fox Podium shocks. So I replaced all 4 caps with ones with schrader valves and I had them filled with nitrogen yesterday. I put them back on today, and that same shock is bottoming out. The dial that goes from 1-2-3 has no resistance in it like the other 3 shocks where it actually clicks from 1-2-3. So I figure the shock it probably defective. I called my dealer and he said to put the shock back to stock, and then bring it in and they would warranty it. The problem is you have to drill out those stock caps, so its not like they won't figure out what really happened.
Any ideas?

 

[Admin]

 

[NTCPrezJB]

So my Talon has about 370 miles on it. On the last trip I noticed a loud banging noise on the rear drivers side. Sure enough it was a shock bottoming out. I have already taken the shocks off once and replaced the tender springs with the ones from Bandit. For this issue I figured the shock had probably leaked all the air out through the rubber bladder on the bottom of the shock. This is common with the Fox Podium shocks. So I replaced all 4 caps with ones with schrader valves and I had them filled with nitrogen yesterday. I put them back on today, and that same shock is bottoming out. The dial that goes from 1-2-3 has no resistance in it like the other 3 shocks where it actually clicks from 1-2-3. So I figure the shock it probably defective. I called my dealer and he said to put the shock back to stock, and then bring it in and they would warranty it. The problem is you have to drill out those stock caps, so its not like they won't figure out what really happened.
Any ideas?

I'd try to just order a seal kit at this point. Rebuilding a shock is far easier than most people think.

 

[HondaTech]

I'd try to just order a seal kit at this point. Rebuilding a shock is far easier than most people think.

Does anyone have specs for oil?

 

[PhilCod]

I'd try to just order a seal kit at this point. Rebuilding a shock is far easier than most people think.

What seal kit are you referring to?

 

[PhilCod]

Does anyone have specs for oil?

I used SS-75w Pro Honda Suspension Fluid

 

[NTCPrezJB]

What seal kit are you referring to?

I was speaking in general terms. I've ordered seal kits and rebuilt works brand shocks on the front of my 400EX. I've done the same with the factory rear on the 400EX. I've done the stock front forks on my Ninja as well. Taking pictures and laying out the parts in order noting proper orientation of each during disassembly makes it a pretty straight forward process. If you're comfortable enough to take them off the machine you can probably handle rebuilding them is what I've told people since.

 

[NTCPrezJB]

I was speaking in general terms. I've ordered seal kits and rebuilt works brand shocks on the front of my 400EX. I've done the same with the factory rear on the 400EX. I've done the stock front forks on my Ninja as well. Taking pictures and laying out the parts in order noting proper orientation of each during disassembly makes it a pretty straight forward process. If you're comfortable enough to take them off the machine you can probably handle rebuilding them is what I've told people since.

Looks like this might work...

625 Rebuild Kit, Fox Shock Dirt Rebuild (Fits all ATV/UTV Fox Shocks with 5/8" Shaft) Rev2

An easy solution to rebuild most 5/8" shaft Fox Podium shocks. Services (1) Shock Includes parts necessary to rebuild most all Fox Podium 1.5 & 2.0 Shocks. 625150/200R200 - (.625" Shaft) x (1.5 Body) & (2.0" Body) x (2.0" Reservoir) Notes* Does not include overmolded scraper found in some...

www.hygearsuspension.com

I make no claims of being an expert. It's a $40 gamble on it, but you could probably call them up and they could make sure it is the right option. They have plenty of Fox rebuild kits on their site.

 

[PhilCod]

So I did a little more investigation. The reservoir is full of nitrogen. See attached picture. I think it's painfully obvious this seal has given out. I'll get a seal kit on order. 377 miles, and the shock seal is shot. Nice, real nice.

 

[Hometeam]

That stinks that it went out. Not a common thing to happen so far. If you didn't want to mess with doing it yourself, I would take it into the dealership and have Honda say no first. Good chance they may still warrant it even if you have replaced the nitrogen caps. But it isn't to hard to rebuild a shock like others have said....

 

[PhilCod]

I just got a recall notice on the sub-trans parking collar, so I have to take it to the dealer anyway. I'll have them take a look. My big worry is I'm guessing the seal is blown, and its something else. The fact that the selector dial has no resistance worries me. My dealer is pretty good, I've know them for years. My position will be, get a new shock on order. When it comes in I'll bring the Talon in and the blown shock will have all stock parts on it. Maybe they will just let me swap the shock, but I doubt it. I know they have parameters they have to work with. I'll update once I get back from the dealer. I'm sure I will have to make an appointment as they are probably weeks out.

 

[HondaTech]

That stinks that it went out. Not a common thing to happen so far. If you didn't want to mess with doing it yourself, I would take it into the dealership and have Honda say no first. Good chance they may still warrant it even if you have replaced the nitrogen caps. But it isn't to hard to rebuild a shock like others have said....

Its not up to the dealer, we can't do anything but send it to FOX and have them fix it or deny it. We have no recourse to even repair one out of warranty.

 

[Hometeam]

Its not up to the dealer, we can't do anything but send it to FOX and have them fix it or deny it. We have no recourse to even repair one out of warranty.

Gotcha...makes sense. I guess I figured they would have you diagnosis the problem and then send seals to rebuild it, if that was the issue. But Fox would have the say....thanks Honda Tech!

 

[PhilCod]

My dealer told me they would replace the shock and take the bad one and send it to Honda. Mine is still under warranty. At least I think it is. I bought it in December.

 

[PhilCod]

I took the Talon in on Monday to get the sub-trans recall done and have them do the shock warranty. They did warranty the shock and they should hopefully have the new one on tomorrow. One other thing I noticed was the wheel seemed a little loose on compared to the other side. The loose wheel is the same side, drivers rear, as the bad shock. The axle nut looked tight, but I didn't remove the pin to try and crank it down. I figured since I was taking it to the shop anyway, they could check it out. I can't see a bad wheel bearing with 300 miles, but I guess that may be it. That or a loose axle nut are the only two things I could think of to have that amount of play.

 

[Vondy]

I took the Talon in on Monday to get the sub-trans recall done and have them do the shock warranty. They did warranty the shock and they should hopefully have the new one on tomorrow. One other thing I noticed was the wheel seemed a little loose on compared to the other side. The loose wheel is the same side, drivers rear, as the bad shock. The axle nut looked tight, but I didn't remove the pin to try and crank it down. I figured since I was taking it to the shop anyway, they could check it out. I can't see a bad wheel bearing with 300 miles, but I guess that may be it. That or a loose axle nut are the only two things I could think of to have that amount of play.

Hold each radius rod when you shake the tire. I thought I had a wheel bearing going shortly after new, but found it to be movement in the radius rod ends. Ran it like that until I installed L&W rear arms and they cleared up the movement.

 

[PhilCod]

Hold each radius rod when you shake the tire. I thought I had a wheel bearing going shortly after new, but found it to be movement in the radius rod ends. Ran it like that until I installed L&W rear arms and they cleared up the movement.

Ahh, good point. I'll do that when I get her back. We'll see what the shop guys say too.
Thanks!

 

[PaulF]

Hold each radius rod when you shake the tire. I thought I had a wheel bearing going shortly after new, but found it to be movement in the radius rod ends. Ran it like that until I installed L&W rear arms and they cleared up the movement.

^^^ This ^^^

Mine were also lose and gave the appearance of a bad wheel bearing. I also replaced my Radius Rods and it cleared up the looseness.

 

[PhilCod]

I spoke to the Honda tech today and he confirmed what you guys were saying. Loose radius rods. Not a problem per Honda, but that kind of defies logic to me. It would be one thing if the left and right side both had the same amount of play. but they don't. Per the tech the top radius rod is a lot looser than the bottom one on the drivers side! So a set of L&W rear arms will be on my list of winter time modifications. I expect better from Honda, but maybe I'm just too demanding. I had a 2007 Rincon and it was a great machine and very durable. But a 400 Lbs. ATV vs. a 1,500 Lbs. SXS isn't a good comparison. Thanks for the input Vondy & Paul.

 

[PaulF]

I spoke to the Honda tech today and he confirmed what you guys were saying. Loose radius rods. Not a problem per Honda, but that kind of defies logic to me. It would be one thing if the left and right side both had the same amount of play. but they don't. Per the tech the top radius rod is a lot looser than the bottom one on the drivers side! So a set of L&W rear arms will be on my list of winter time modifications. I expect better from Honda, but maybe I'm just too demanding. I had a 2007 Rincon and it was a great machine and very durable. But a 400 Lbs. ATV vs. a 1,500 Lbs. SXS isn't a good comparison. Thanks for the input Vondy & Paul.

My dealer had a similar response. They admitted there was some play but not enough to justify replacement. I pretty much agreed with them but I had to give it a try anyway .