BRed Starts-runs-won’t move

[1idejim]

Hey there, new to forum

Here’s a bit of information.

The SXS was purchased second hand to be used (or should I say abused) on a 50 square mile ranch.

The manager and his sidekick drove this poor thing like they stole it and it only saw a service when it was non-operatible, possibly one time if I remember correctly.

Last it ran it was shifted into neutral and the brake set to open a gate, it wouldn’t move regardless of being shifted into different range or direction afterwards.

The SXS has been sitting for 3 years and was given to me to haul away. In spite of the abuse it’s seen, it’s not in bad shape so I can afford to bring it around.

It appears any type oil and possibly even additives such as power punch may have been used.

I’m buying a Honda/ Clymer repair manual before going too far but I’d like to gather as much feedback as possible from other owner/mechanics as possible.

Thanks for any input and advice.

2009 with 7236 miles, 934.6 hrs on it.

 

[Neohio]

I am not 100% familiar with the Big Red, But climb under it and check the operation of the shift cable. It could be loose, broken, mis-adjusted etc.


Get the OEM service manual from helminc.com

 

[Eltobgi]

Big Red Service Manual 2009-2012. Divided downloads.

This link appears to provide access to manual. Didn’t verify, but worth a look

 

[1idejim]

I am not 100% familiar with the Big Red, But climb under it and check the operation of the shift cable. It could be loose, broken, mis-adjusted etc.


Get the OEM service manual from helminc.com

I have checked the linkage and the emergency valve bypass with no joy.

I have it off the trailer now though so it’s easier to get around it. I’ve been cleaning the machine and trying to tally up the missing bolts.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[DG Rider]

I have checked the linkage and the emergency valve bypass with no joy.

I have it off the trailer now though so it’s easier to get around it. I’ve been cleaning the machine and trying to tally up the missing bolts.

Thanks for the reply.

If the bypass doesn't work, then something is broken or there is low/no oil pressure. I wouldn't run it again until the pressure is checked.

 

[Gator]

What exactly does it do?
Will it shift? or is the shifter stuck?
Does it sound like it is trying to shift?
Do you feel anything? or hear anything when you shift it?

You said the last time it was used the brake was locked. Could the brake be stuck?

EDIT: Welcome to the forum.

 

[1idejim]

If the bypass doesn't work, then something is broken or there is low/no oil pressure. I wouldn't run it again until the pressure is checked.

I have a manual on the way and won’t do much except research until it arrives. Thanks.

 

[1idejim]

What exactly does it do?
Will it shift? or is the shifter stuck?
Does it sound like it is trying to shift?
Do you feel anything? or hear anything when you shift it?

You said the last time it was used the brake was locked. Could the brake be stuck?

EDIT: Welcome to the forum.

Thanks for the welcome

The brakes were never locked up, rather the parking brake was applied while the gate was open and the machine left idling. I wasn’t there but it quit on my dad who was driving the machine. It was towed to the barn by others.

Here’s a run down on what’s happening or not.

1) Oil and filter has been changed by me personally.
2) Brand new battery has been installed by me personally.
3) The machine starts and runs with rough idle.
4) Linkage has been traced and seems to be in good working order.
5) Shift in neutral “N” light works
6) Shift to drive “D” indicator works.
7) Shift to reverse “R” indicator works.
8) When shifting there’s nothing happening except the electrical indicators changing. No bumps, no clunks, no slipping or indication of power or direction change.
9) If I Shift to “D” or “R” and push the machine a little bit the input shaft/driveshaft turns in the appropriate direction but doesn’t turn when the engine is running. The shaft does turn when shifted to “N” when rocked back and forth however.

I’m pretty new to working on these machines but I’m not new to troubleshooting. At this point I’m trying to gather as much information as possible to eliminate what’s normal and not to determine what’s working or not.

Thanks for the replies everyone

 

[1idejim]

Got my manual in the mail recently, I’m impressed with the attention to detail many other manuals I have lack, including (OEM) from other companies.

I can eliminate any sensors through electrical tests but It appears I’ll need to build a single test and three gauge test manifold for oil pressures to gather information for my initial troubleshooting of the drive train.

I’ll be back to pick your brains, that’s for sure

 

[DG Rider]

Got my manual in the mail recently, I’m impressed with the attention to detail many other manuals I have lack, including (OEM) from other companies.

I can eliminate any sensors through electrical tests but It appears I’ll need to build a single test and three gauge test manifold for oil pressures to gather information for my initial troubleshooting of the drive train.

I’ll be back to pick your brains, that’s for sure

Yes...I'm sorry, but I should have been clear about the bypass: it "bypasses" any electrical/electronic controls with a straight connection from oil supply to the 2nd gear clutch. Could have saved you some trouble shooting there...

 

[1idejim]

Yes...I'm sorry, but I should have been clear about the bypass: it "bypasses" any electrical/electronic controls with a straight connection from oil supply to the 2nd gear clutch. Could have saved you some trouble shooting there...

No worries, I understood the emergency bypass definition but these issues are either mechanical, electrical or both. I like to gather as much information as possible, in the least invasive manner which is usually cheaper.

There’s an easy $100 bill investment in building the oil pressure and valve pressure testing manifold. Which is my next set of tests btw.

 

[DG Rider]

There’s an easy $100 bill investment in building the oil pressure and valve pressure testing manifold. Which is my next set of tests btw.

This is supposedly the banjo adapter needed...
Honda 07AMJ-HN8A100 - Best Price on Honda ADAPTER,BANJ0 8X1.25 Parts at BikeBandit.com

 

[1idejim]

This is supposedly the banjo adapter needed...
Honda 07AMJ-HN8A100 - Best Price on Honda ADAPTER,BANJ0 8X1.25 Parts at BikeBandit.com

Thank you!

 

[Tflynn]

Thank you!

Any updates?