P1000 Subwoofer question?

Robobrainiac

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Remington

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Can the stock charging system handle a sound system with subwoofer or do I need a dual battery setup?

I want to run the swamp donkey overhead, Rockville amp, and Rockford Fosgate subwoofer.


I personally like the swamp donkey the way it is. I have one in my Talon and it plenty loud with good bass. Maybe some upgraded speakers in the future?
but if u go the sub and amp rout, id do a second battery. If u have accessories over a set of lights and a winch, you should have a second battery anyway.
 
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Can the stock charging system handle a sound system with subwoofer or do I need a dual battery setup?

I want to run the swamp donkey overhead, Rockville amp, and Rockford Fosgate subwoofer.



It'll handle it to a point, depends on how much you're cranking and how many other things are running. The charging system will handle a good amount and then it'll start drawing from the battery. Smart habits and it'll handle it.
 
Robobrainiac

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Swamp donkey and subwoofer have been ordered. Now I need to make a decision on an amp. Thank you guys for the replies!
 
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Swamp donkey and subwoofer have been ordered. Now I need to make a decision on an amp. Thank you guys for the replies!
I was going to question your choice of amps. The cheaper ones will create the power but generally have a lot of distortion and none of them are waterproof. Rockford Fosgate makes powered subs too but I don't know if they have them in the shallow mount. Keep us posted man.
 
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The subwoofer choice was based mainly on the box. It should work for how I intend to design my system. Worst case scenario the sub gets upgraded to marine grade and I reuse the box. I chose the rockville amp this morning linked above. It seems to have some good reviews. My entire system is going to be roof mounted so I should not have an issue with full submersion. I am ordering the trueam isolator today for a dual battery setup. I am just trying to decide if I want a deep cycle battery under the driver seat or a 2nd auxillary battery under the hood.
 
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The subwoofer choice was based mainly on the box. It should work for how I intend to design my system. Worst case scenario the sub gets upgraded to marine grade and I reuse the box. I chose the rockville amp this morning linked above. It seems to have some good reviews. My entire system is going to be roof mounted so I should not have an issue with full submersion. I am ordering the trueam isolator today for a dual battery setup. I am just trying to decide if I want a deep cycle battery under the driver seat or a 2nd auxillary battery under the hood.
The one under the hood should be fine. I have more $hit than carter has liver pils on my secondary plus amp and sub 6yrs no prb
 
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bumperm

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I personally like the swamp donkey the way it is. I have one in my Talon and it plenty loud with good bass. Maybe some upgraded speakers in the future?
but if u go the sub and amp rout, id do a second battery. If u have accessories over a set of lights and a winch, you should have a second battery anyway.
At my age, a wench would require more than just a second battery. Just sayin'. Oh, did I get that mixed up again?
 
BWAF

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I personally like the swamp donkey the way it is. I have one in my Talon and it plenty loud with good bass. Maybe some upgraded speakers in the future?
but if u go the sub and amp rout, id do a second battery. If u have accessories over a set of lights and a winch, you should have a second battery anyway.
I 2nd the 2nd I have 10"sub and run 2 battery never had a problem
 
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Do I need a stinger to totally isolate the auxillary battery from the main battery or does the TrueAM do that for me?

Like if I wanted to listen to the tunes and run the aux battery down while the machine is off and still have the main battery to start the machine.
 
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BWAF

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I did trueam it will disconnect when voltage drops to 11.5 I think and radio on aux then you can still start
 
bumperm

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The R
Do I need a stinger to totally isolate the auxillary battery from the main battery or does the TrueAM do that for me?

Like if I wanted to listen to the tunes and run the aux battery down while the machine is off and still have the main battery to start the machine.
The True isolator/charger takes care of that. When you apply a load to one battery, it will not draw down the other. The "Stinger" is simply a relay, albeit one with high capacity. What the Stinger is typically used for, is to apply power to an added fuse block that's used for accessories. The Stinger is energized by "key on" voltage so that the fuse block doesn't get power when the key is off. This is fine for most accessories, however, you may want some things to operate when "key off" as well. (I power my rear and pod lights, phone charger, horn, and of course winch with "key off" power.

BTW, instead of buying a Stinger, I used a 75 amp Bosch relay I had in stock. The winch, which draws more than 75 amps when under load, was wired direct to the main battery as delivered by Honda. When I added my aux battery, I moved the winch over to that - still direct wire with no fuse, so it's very important to insure the wire run is pristine, preferably welding cable (thick insulation) and run in flex cover etc for, no possibility of chafing or a shorted terminal.
 
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Cool. I appreciate everyone's comments and feedback! I ordered just the TrueAM and I will get the wires needed for the proper length as my wife and I have decided we will not be putting a heater into the pioneer so the battery will be going under the seat. I took some measurements and I should be able to fit a 24DC battery down there. Within the next couple of weeks I should be able to get it installed. For the time being it will be put together as best as I can with the time I have until after we get back from ride royal blue in November. Then I will re wire for the panel and switches. Thank you all!
 
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bumperm

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Do I need a stinger to totally isolate the auxillary battery from the main battery or does the TrueAM do that for me?

Like if I wanted to listen to the tunes and run the aux battery down while the machine is off and still have the main battery to start the machine.
Couple of additional things to consider. Lead acid batteries last longest if not discharged below 80%, and going down to 50% shortens their life even more. As soon as you start to use a lead acid, the voltage starts a downhill drop. Going below 50% charge, as mentioned, is tough on the battery (especially so if not charged up soon thereafter).

Lithium batteries, as shown in the chart below, maintain their voltage for a lot longer. Unlike lead acid, they don't suffer degradation when discharged almost all the way down, so practically speaking, they have a lot more energy density. (Note that the battery in the chart is Lithium-ion. They are well know for being problematic, with a penchant for toasting marshmallows if everything isn't just right - just ask Chevy Volt owners and, on occasion, Tesla. Much safer, but a little less energy, it Lithium Ferrous Phosphate (LiFePO4). True makes a version of their battery isolator to work with a LiFePO4 aux battery. They are also lighter than lead-acid, oh, and significantly more expensive. The pay back in way more charge/discharge cycles.

1633892980000
 
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