Talon R 13,000 mile report

[hondabob]

Still running like new. Honda has done a great job designing the Talon. The hard part is done and improvements are the easy part. I expect the suspension will be improved in future models and the air filter intake will be relocated into clean air too. I have the Honda 10w40 HP4M Synthetic Blend with Moly in my sub trans now and it is shifting like brand new. This oil with Moly should fix stiff shifting on cold start and stop the shift bang. I was thinking about selling it at 20,000 miles but its so much fun I may keep it until 30,000. I removed the skid plates and did a careful inspection and cleanup. The drive line and suspension is still like new and no problems found. Its important to tighten the battery terminals and check the coolant level. My RZR buddies are impressed, the Honda just keeps on running. They have a belt drive inspection and clean up every 200 miles which is annoying on a $20,000 side by side. I added a belt drive snorkel on my RZR's to avoid that maintenance and dusty air entering but still the black belt dust had to clean out at every oil change.

 

[Admin]

 

[dankathyc]

Trying to catch your mileage, but I think I'm losing ground. (I'm only up to 7200) I plan to run mine until it is not worth any more repairs. 40,000 is the dream, no repairs yet. Modifications don't count!

 

[IDIOT]

Still running like new. Honda has done a great job designing the Talon. The hard part is done and improvements are the easy part. I expect the suspension will be improved in future models and the air filter intake will be relocated into clean air too. I have the Honda 10w40 HP4M Synthetic Blend with Moly in my sub trans now and it is shifting like brand new. This oil with Moly should fix stiff shifting on cold start and stop the shift bang. I was thinking about selling it at 20,000 miles but its so much fun I may keep it until 30,000. I removed the skid plates and did a careful inspection and cleanup. The drive line and suspension is still like new and no problems found. Its important to tighten the battery terminals and check the coolant level. My RZR buddies are impressed, the Honda just keeps on running. They have a belt drive inspection and clean up every 200 miles which is annoying on a $20,000 side by side. I added a belt drive snorkel on my RZR's to avoid that maintenance and dusty air entering but still the black belt dust had to clean out at every oil change.

View attachment 198029View attachment 198030

Hey Hondabob, do you ride with a guy named Ray? He bought my wheels and tires.

 

[TMCCOY]

Impressive! As long as the machine runs great and is fun, would be interesting to see how many miles you can go.

 

[hondabob]

This is why Ray bought your wheels. He hit this rock at about 45 mph. Both drivers side tires were ruined and both wheels were slightly bent but useable. The Honda wheels are tough. Fortunately two of us had a spare. He said he didn't see the rock and said it was like a bomb went off.

 

[IDIOT]

Damn, that rock really blends in with the sand.

 

[bjniceguy]

Bob, why did you decide to go with 10-40 rather than 10-30 that Honda calls out? They offer both with teh moly.

 

[hondabob]

I had the 10w40 and used it in my M\X bikes. I don't think it matters but the Moly additive is the important part. Got 600 miles on it and I'm amazed at how smooth it shifts.

 

[bjniceguy]

thanks, my dealer only had 10-30 in stock so I am going with it. Agree that the moly is probably game changer (I hope LOL)

 

[Lil_Steve]

Both drivers side tires were ruined and both wheels were slightly bent but useable. The Honda wheels are tough.

View attachment 198670

I agree that the Honda wheels are tough, the stock tires, not so much. Unfortunately the result of letting a friend drive it.

 

[Whichway]

Just to make sure I read your first post correctly, you are only putting the moly oil in the sub-trans correct? I would think it may be detrimental to the clutches in the engine and primary transmission.

 

[bjniceguy]

Yes Sub only Motor has to have wet clutch compatible oil.

 

[IDIOT]

Thanks for the heads up guys, i'm going to try that oil in my sub trans. My riding buddy will pick up his red R in 2 weeks and i will let him know as well.

 

[Mopower58]

Bob, why did you decide to go with 10-40 rather than 10-30 that Honda calls out? They offer both with teh moly.

I would think the 10-40 has better protection in the heat of Arizona.

 

[jamesh]

Bob,

So with all the shift gate fanagling, to you think just the oil alone does the trick?

 

[hondabob]

The oil may fix most but I think we need a longer throw into low. My 2020 is hard to get into low so I'm changing the oil to the Honda Moly oil. I sometimes have to bump the throttle slightly in drive then it goes into low ok. I have more shift lever travel to get it into low too. If the shifter is loaded forward in the shift gate its not fully into gear and your going to get the load bang as you give it throttle and it slams into gear. The gear dogs stack and slight movement will allow them to fully engage. It can happen in any gear but you can over shift in reverse and high. I use Paul's shift gate in my 2019 Talon and it has a much longer travel going into low.

 

[PaulF]

The oil may fix most but I think we need a longer throw into low. My 2020 is hard to get into low so I'm changing the oil to the Honda Moly oil. I sometimes have to bump the throttle slightly in drive then it goes into low ok. I have more shift lever travel to get it into low too. If the shifter is loaded forward in the shift gate its not fully into gear and your going to get the load bang as you give it throttle and it slams into gear. The gear dogs stack and slight movement will allow them to fully engage. It can happen in any gear but you can over shift in reverse and high. I use Paul's shift gate in my 2019 Talon and it has a much longer travel going into low.

I agree with Bob. I have spent MANY hours on this issue. Tried 5 different oils, multiple cable adjustments, 3 or 4 prototypes and a final redesigned shift gate and this is my conclusion...

• The Moly oil by far makes the Sub-Trans shift the best.
• My modified shift gate adds a badly needed 7mm extra throw for Low.
• My gate narrows the low gate so that you cannot move the shifter over into the low gate unless the shift dogs are engaged.
• With the stock gate, you can "half" engage the dogs and they can jump out of gear under acceleration and you will get the dreaded "bang". My gate pre-loads the cable in Low if the dogs are not fully engaged and forces the dogs to fully engage when you start moving. Once the dogs are fully engaged, the cable is no longer pre-loaded.

In my opinion, the oil is half the solution and making sure the dogs are fully engaged into Low is the other half of the solution. The Moly Oil and the modified Shift Gate used together is the best solution (or prevention) for improper Low Range engagement and that dreaded "bang".

That is my experience but I make the gates so I may be a little biased. Others that have purchased a modified gate should chime in here with their experience.

 

[906UP]

I agree with Bob. I have spent MANY hours on this issue. Tried 5 different oils, multiple cable adjustments, 3 or 4 prototypes and a final redesigned shift gate and this is my conclusion...

• The Moly oil by far makes the Sub-Trans shift the best.
• My modified shift gate adds a badly needed 7mm extra throw for Low.
• My gate narrows the low gate so that you cannot move the shifter over into the low gate unless the shift dogs are engaged.
• With the stock gate, you can "half" engage the dogs and they can jump out of gear under acceleration and you will get the dreaded "bang". My gate pre-loads the cable in Low if the dogs are not fully engaged and forces the dogs to fully engage when you start moving. Once the dogs are fully engaged, the cable is no longer pre-loaded.

In my opinion, the oil is half the solution and making sure the dogs are fully engaged into Low is the other half of the solution. The Moly Oil and the modified Shift Gate used together is the best solution (or prevention) for improper Low Range engagement and that dreaded "bang".

That is my experience but I make the gates so I may be a little biased. Others that have purchased a modified gate should chime in here with their experience.

Not to hijack @hondabob thread but I agree with @PaulF on the new shift gate, it just plain works. I will take HondaBob's recommendation on the Moly oil at the next service. Thanks guys!

 

[Wilson1]

The right oil will do wonders for a trans. When I was young and desert racing a bike we all used Red Line Green rear end oil. Worked wonders for a MC trans where you were never using the clutch except to take off. I use Red Line Red i- heavy duty - in my drag car rear end. Both oils have Shock Proof additives. When I pull the pig out of the rear end to check it at the end of the season the one thing I notice about this oil is that is just adheres to parts like nothing I have ever seen. You have to work at it to get the oil off in a parts washer. Has anyone tried this oil?

 

[NFA_Fun]

Good info here! I ordered Paul’s shift gate...due here Monday.

Will be changing out the oil when I get my machine out of the shop again...long story.

How many quarts are needed to to change the sub trans? Any filters associated with it?

Thanks in advance!