W
I have a spare tire, and jack mounted on my rear roll bar struts. My favorite answer to this question "Don't you have a fire extinguisher"? Nope - It isn't a Polaris! End of discussion.... LOL
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hondabob
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
I posted this on the another drive shaft failure a minute ago. Needless to say I'm pissed. My second replacement U-joint failed today. I checked both U-joints at my last oil change and they looked OK and all the C clips were in place. I checked the drive shaft before it was installed and all the C clips were installed properly. The service manage and tech both checked the drive shaft too. I'm at 22,130 miles now. My last oil change was about 400 miles ago. I was way out on a solo ride today and was lucky that it failed at the end of my ride. I could feel the vibration and as another Forum member said I could see the drive shaft wobble through the shifter holes. The bearing cup was still in the skid plate. I'm thinking I may just cut the drive shaft in half to remove it if I have this problem way out. Driving it or towing it will make the banging that may cause a huge failure if driven for several miles. I'm doing some testing tomorrow. I think the drive shaft will come off the sub trans and by removing the retainer ring it will come off the front dif clutch. I'm welding the replacement drive shaft this time. I'm installing a bearing cup and C clip tomorrow and welding the bearing cups on the rear failed U-joint tomorrow so I can ride it until I get another new drive shaft.
1
No need, the sub-trans is sealed, slip yoke is completely external. Just wipe off, re-grease and slip on new driveline.
Front is of more concern. It wont leak but the internal greased splines in the front clutch will attract all kinds of dust so it will need a good cleaning then re-greased if driven without a front yoke installed.
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hondabob
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
I caught my drive shaft failure right away so there was no yoke damage. The cups in one yoke would fall out without the C clips. I didn't want to wait a couple of weeks to get it fixed so I took it to my buddies shop to get it welded. I had my other failed drive shaft for parts. Putting in the C clip was a PITA, I gave up after 30 minutes. My buddy got it installed and did the welding. I will get my new drive shaft welded before its installed.
If the driveshaft fails way out on a long ride the skid plate can be removed and the drive shaft can be cut in half to remove the rear section. The front part can be tie wrapped. It won't more without the clutch engaged. It can be driven out in 2WD and without the skid plate reinstalled. A short drive at low speed will be have a lot of banging but so far it has only damaged the driveshaft yoke. There is a carboard sleeve inside the driveshaft to reduce vibration. I will add this hack saw to my tool kit.
If the driveshaft fails way out on a long ride the skid plate can be removed and the drive shaft can be cut in half to remove the rear section. The front part can be tie wrapped. It won't more without the clutch engaged. It can be driven out in 2WD and without the skid plate reinstalled. A short drive at low speed will be have a lot of banging but so far it has only damaged the driveshaft yoke. There is a carboard sleeve inside the driveshaft to reduce vibration. I will add this hack saw to my tool kit.
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I don't know about belt drives on SXSs. I like the Honda double clutch transmissions but a lot of road bikes use belts. I hated the chains on my street bike because of the noise. I wish Honda still sold jet skis. My 2006 ones are running like new without a single repair in all those years that wasn't caused by hitting something. They use a modified Honda Civic engine and that thing can take a lot of abuse I guess.
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