Tire dimensions, confused please help

[Many_Gs]

Hi all,

I own a 2021 1000x4 Live valve, while it may be a big battle bus and a good time seating 4 people, it's missing ground clearance. I am getting tired of bottoming out and need more ground clearance. I am also getting tired of the constant spinning for traction, I feel the stock tires are a joke (maybe I am wrong...)

I don't understand the sizes though:

• FRONT TIRE:28x9-15
• REAR TIRE:28x11-15

If I want to get new tires, do I need to get 30x9-15 then 30x11-15? This seems impossible to find, this all seems complicated. I read about spacers and read the gearing concerns with the increase in the tire size. I would like to gain ground clearance, without rubbing, nor do I want my machine to be any wider than it has to be, as it's currently pretty wide for the trails we ride. I ride east coast trails, muddy windy deeply rutted trails with lots of rocks and roots.

If you guys could help steer me in the right direction I'd greatly appreciate it. I just want more ground clearance and a better tire that'll give me better traction. Ground clearance is key though, I hate bottoming out! Thanks all!

 

[trigger]

28 is diameter of tire. 9/11 is width. 15 is the wheel size.
@Vondy @Tramguage1 @906UP

 

[Many_Gs]

28 is diameter of tire. 9/11 is width. 15 is the wheel size.
@Vondy @Tramguage1 @906UP

Appreciate that, I understand that part. When I am shopping for a new tire, do I want to keep these same widths? I just want ground clearance and a better grip.

 

[trigger]

The guys I tagged in that post know more about the Talon than I do. They'll chime in and steer you right.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Appreciate that, I understand that part. When I am shopping for a new tire, do I want to keep these same widths? I just want ground clearance and a better grip.

Just get some 31” x9.5 system 3 xm310’s and 14” sb4 beadlocks. 6-1 front and 4-3 rear.

My x4 was exactly the same width front to rear as stock with that combination. (Based on installing them and measuring not fancy math)

The tires are 30.8” tall and grip way better than stock. (Also 8 ply)

Going to 14” rim gives more squish in the rubber for rock compliance.

Beadlocks eliminate popping off the bead at low tire pressures. (Low tire pressure = traction)

 

[Many_Gs]

Just get some 31” x9.5 system 3 xm310’s and 14” sb4 beadlocks. 6-1 front and 4-3 rear.

My x4 was exactly the same width front to rear as stock with that combination. (Based on installing them and measuring not fancy math)

The tires are 30.8” tall and grip way better than stock. (Also 8 ply)

Going to 14” rim gives more squish in the rubber for rock compliance.

Beadlocks eliminate popping off the bead at low tire pressures. (Low tire pressure = traction)

While I'd like to get different wheels, I am not sure the juice is worth the squeeze. I already dropped over $3k and I'm trying to gain ground clearance for as cheap as possible while still maintaining dependability. I can get by with stock 15" rims and still run a 32x10-15 front and rear, correct? No need for spacers or anything of the sort. I shouldn't have worries about transmission issues or anything else?

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

While I'd like to get different wheels, I am not sure the juice is worth the squeeze. I already dropped over $3k and I'm trying to gain ground clearance for as cheap as possible while still maintaining dependability. I can get by with stock 15" rims and still run a 32x10-15 front and rear, correct? No need for spacers or anything of the sort. I shouldn't have worries about transmission issues or anything else?

I guess keeping stock wheels is up to you but I removed those paper mache tires and tin can wheels when they were new and got $500 for them. (Which covers new wheels)

I run pretty hard and fast.

32x10’s will rub when turning and compressed.

I’d go with 30’s before 32’s.

 

[Remington]

The other beauty about the same size tire all the way around is u need one spare and rotating for ware.

Did we or did we not say wed help u spend ur money? Lol

 

[CID]

Do you have an aftermarket 1/2” skid? If not, you need one, the stock skid is little more than a dust cover.

I went with 30” tires on 6+1 front and 4+3 rear wheels. Doing it again, I’d use 4 front wheels with spacers on the rear so I could rotate.

 

[Many_Gs]

I guess keeping stock wheels is up to you but I removed those paper mache tires and tin can wheels when they were new and got $500 for them. (Which covers new wheels)

I run pretty hard and fast.

32x10’s will rub when turning and compressed.

I’d go with 30’s before 32’s.

Interesting, you were able to sell them and make enough to cover the new wheels... now you got me thinking.

I have about 120 miles on them already, not sure what I'd be able to get out of them. I may have to look into this after all, though I've read some reviews on bead locks and I understand they're prone to leaking. Not only that but they're a pain to swap tires onto/off of.

I could see it being worth while to save some weight though, I'll have to look at some wheels too.

Right now I'm considering the terrabites, but not sure is 30 or 32s. I've been told 32s shouldn't rub, not sure if accurate.

 

[CID]

Terrabites have an inconsistent bead width and ‘may’ leak with bead locks. They wear very well though. Fwiw - internet information, not hands on.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Interesting, you were able to sell them and make enough to cover the new wheels... now you got me thinking.

I have about 120 miles on them already, not sure what I'd be able to get out of them. I may have to look into this after all, though I've read some reviews on bead locks and I understand they're prone to leaking. Not only that but they're a pain to swap tires onto/off of.

I could see it being worth while to save some weight though, I'll have to look at some wheels too.

Right now I'm considering the terrabites, but not sure is 30 or 32s. I've been told 32s shouldn't rub, not sure if accurate.

Terrabites have weak sidewalls. (Similar to the stock tires)

It’s actually very easy to change tires on beadlocks. (Non beadlocks you have to pop the bead off with a machine or special tool vs just unbolting it)

I did a light smear of rtv silicone on my beads and they don’t leak a bit after a year.

Anti sieze is critical for beadlock ring bolts.

 

[PaulF]

I have run both types of Terrabites and some various brand beadllocks here are my personal findings...

• Terrabites (had on previous machine) have pretty weak sidewalls. They are better than stock but pretty weak and easy to puncture. I got several flats with them and only ran them 500 miles.
• Terrabite Kevlar (what I run now) have much better sidewalls and puncture resistance but are much more expensive. I have never had a flat and have about 1500 miles on them and run them a lot harder than my last machine.
• Terrabite beads (at least the Kevlar version) are only about 10.5 mm. They do not provide enough "squash" because they are too thin to clamp in a beadlock wheel and seal properly. Even with silicone or bead sealer. They will develop slow leaks (a couple pounds overnight was my worse). I ended up tubing all 4 of mine, I will never buy them again but unfortunately they last forever so I am kind of stuck with them for now.
• Terrabites are excellent all around tires. Ran with another R this weekend that has BFG KO2's and he had trouble and I didn't and KO2 are supposed to be pretty good tires. The KO2's had trouble on lose rocky terrain and I sailed right up. Kinda surprised me. I have run them in the dunes (5-6 psi) when I was too lazy to put my paddles on and they impressed me. They are great at rock crawling.
• While the outer bead on a beadlock is easy to remove, the inner bead still requires a bead breaker. Changing a tire on a beadlock without a tire machine is pretty difficult. With a tire machine or hand bead breaker, they are super easy to change. The "pain" that everyone is referring to is the the many ring bolts that need to be meticulously tightened in a slow and methodical pattern. It takes time!
• 14" tire/rims will give you a little more cushion and provide a little better ride.
• +50mm offset wheels up front will make the machine "feel" as close to stock as you can get and reduce any power steering issues that occur with bigger tires.
• +50mm offset up front and +10 mm offset in the rear will make your front/rear width equal. +50mm all the way around with 1.5" spacers in the rear will also make your front/rear width equal.

 

[Many_Gs]

I have run both types of Terrabites and some various brand beadllocks here are my personal findings...

• Terrabites (had on previous machine) have pretty weak sidewalls. They are better than stock but pretty weak and easy to puncture. I got several flats with them and only ran them 500 miles.
• Terrabite Kevlar (what I run now) have much better sidewalls and puncture resistance but are much more expensive. I have never had a flat and have about 1500 miles on them and run them a lot harder than my last machine.
• Terrabite beads (at least the Kevlar version) are only about 10.5 mm. They do not provide enough "squash" because they are too thin to clamp in a beadlock wheel and seal properly. Even with silicone or bead sealer. They will develop slow leaks (a couple pounds overnight was my worse). I ended up tubing all 4 of mine, I will never buy them again but unfortunately they last forever so I am kind of stuck with them for now.
• Terrabites are excellent all around tires. Ran with another R this weekend that has BFG KO2's and he had trouble and I didn't and KO2 are supposed to be pretty good tires. The KO2's had trouble on lose rocky terrain and I sailed right up. Kinda surprised me. I have run them in the dunes (5-6 psi) when I was too lazy to put my paddles on and they impressed me. They are great at rock crawling.
• While the outer bead on a beadlock is easy to remove, the inner bead still requires a bead breaker. Changing a tire on a beadlock without a tire machine is pretty difficult. With a tire machine or hand bead breaker, they are super easy to change. The "pain" that everyone is referring to is the the many ring bolts that need to be meticulously tightened in a slow and methodical pattern. It takes time!
• 14" tire/rims will give you a little more cushion and provide a little better ride.
• +50mm offset wheels up front will make the machine "feel" as close to stock as you can get and reduce any power steering issues that occur with bigger tires.
• +50mm offset up front and +10 mm offset in the rear will make your front/rear width equal. +50mm all the way around with 1.5" spacers in the rear will also make your front/rear width equal.

That's helpful, and makes me even more concerned to buy them now lol. I have about 140 miles on my talon now, so far the stockers hold up well, I'm just not happy with the lack of ground clearance (and power).

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[PaulF]

That's helpful, and makes me even more concerned to buy them now lol. I have about 140 miles on my talon now, so far the stockers hold up well, I'm just not happy with the lack of ground clearance (and power).

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They are a great tire (the Kevlar version) but if you will be running them on beadlocks, I would look elsewhere.

If you are concerned with a lack of power, bigger/heavier tires are going to make that problem even worse.

 

[Many_Gs]

They are a great tire (the Kevlar version) but if you will be running them on beadlocks, I would look elsewhere.

If you are concerned with a lack of power, bigger/heavier tires are going to make that problem even worse.

That's my biggest issue, bigger tires means less power. I already feel like I don't have enough juice to get up hills, feels like it'll bog down now. This is a tough decision.

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[PaulF]

That's my biggest issue, bigger tires means less power. I already feel like I don't have enough juice to get up hills, feels like it'll bog down now. This is a tough decision.

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You should have plenty of power, do you use low range and manual and keep the RPM up a little when needed? I have noticed that if you start to spin with a Talon, auto tends to upshift at just the wrong time and sometimes bog you down.

I take my Talon to the (power sucking) sand dunes regularly and after learning how/when to use manual, I no longer bog down/dig in/stall. I think you may just need a little more seat time to learn when/how to use manual.

 

[Many_Gs]

You should have plenty of power, do you use low range and manual and keep the RPM up a little when needed? I have noticed that if you start to spin with a Talon, auto tends to upshift at just the wrong time and sometimes bog you down.

I take my Talon to the (power sucking) sand dunes regularly and after learning how/when to use manual, I no longer bog down/dig in/stall. I think you may just need a little more seat time to learn when/how to use manual.

Typically auto in 4x4, I just feel like it doesn't have enough juice to make it at times.

I suppose manual shifting helps, even with the 32s? Truth is, most of my time is spent between 10-40mph, and those 40mph sprints are big open fields/openings which are rare. So 32s don't worry me in a top end sense but more in a "get up the hill with a short run" sense.

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[CID]

The way to know if you’re about to power out - when it’s lugging way down, paddle down, if it has another gear you were just fine. I short shift mine as much as possible and it has always been able to chug through, even at 13k feet.

If you didn’t have another gear, you should have been in Low range, if you were already in Low, then start worrying. I think you’ll be surprised how low the software will let it run and still pull. These motors don’t have to be bouncing off the rev limiter to go.

 

[Hometeam]

I definitely don't completely understand the power issue (don't get me wrong I love turbos and want turbo power but not needed for climbing)...I run 32" Terra Masters and I run hard and do the tough trails and climbs everywhere I go. But I do use low and I do use manual. Manual is one of the greatest things to a Talon....you choose the rpm. The Terra Masters have been awesome! They are light, handle everything I have thrown at them great. They have a rounded profile and are 31.4" tall at 10psi. They hardly ever rub. I would get them again. I mostly ride in Tennessee trails.