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Trailer Brake Batteries

Smitty335

Smitty335

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How do you wire around the trailer brake batterie, trying to simpflie my brake wiring, really a batterie for a trailer, blue black and white wires
 
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Plowboy1466

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Qu314369 800
 
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john790

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Smitty you should probaly keep the break away.Arent you in to rc cars if so just use a 3 cell lipo for your battery just unhook the truck charging system from the battery.It will last a year without charging. The battery is just along for the ride unless needed.If you choose not to use it. Hook the break away cable to the truck for looks only if you get caught with out it the fine is 200.00 dollars
 
Hondasxs

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I lost my trailer brakes this weekend and did some testing tonight.
The breakaway on my system has NOTHING to do with the trailer brakes working or not.
Its really a secondary system ontop of the trailer brakes to automatically apply brakes if the cable is pulled.

So long to short... YES, you an cut the 3 wires. But like said, it's required by law.

FYI, My issue is a one of those stupid splices under the trailer shorting out.
 
Smitty335

Smitty335

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I lost my trailer brakes this weekend and did some testing tonight.
The breakaway on my system has NOTHING to do with the trailer brakes working or not.
Its really a secondary system ontop of the trailer brakes to automatically apply brakes if the cable is pulled.

So long to short... YES, you an cut the 3 wires. But like said, it's required by law.

FYI, My issue is a one of those stupid splices under the trailer shorting out.
Ow dang, all my wiring is in conduit, I'll take a closer look!
 
WagginTail

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I can't adjust the brake gain, I figured it had something to do with the battery?
You mean with the brake controller inside your truck?

Do this first. Jack up your trailer tire and give it a spin. Then have someone engage the trailer brakes with the brake controller. If you have a tire that doesn't stop spinning then start with that one.

Make sure you're getting power to the magnet inside each drum. You can check that with a volt meter. You will need to have someone engage the trailer brakes with the brake controller to check it.


If you have power at the magnet then you can test the magnets. Again, have someone engage the trailer brakes with the brake controller. You can then put a big screw driver, wrench, or big pair of pliers on the magnet and it should hold it on there. If it won't then replace the magnet. They like to go bad pretty regularly.
 
Coeus

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I lost my trailer brakes this weekend and did some testing tonight.
The breakaway on my system has NOTHING to do with the trailer brakes working or not.
Its really a secondary system ontop of the trailer brakes to automatically apply brakes if the cable is pulled.

So long to short... YES, you an cut the 3 wires. But like said, it's required by law.

FYI, My issue is a one of those stupid splices under the trailer shorting out.
X2… mine stopped working this weekend as well… second time. First time the wires were pinched and one was cut. Will have to check it out today to find out the new reason
 
lee

lee

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I've had a fun one.
Intermittently the trailer brakes would stop working, the controller would flash a red led indicating a short (or more than three axles being activated according to the manual).
With my Duramax it's an inconvenience but I'm towing with Pilot today and the trailer brakes are more important. (Dallas traffic)
Randomly, if I mess with the rats next of wires it starts working again.
But not so much today.
On a whim I cut the wire to the breakaway switch and haven't had an issue for the rest of the day.
(Left the cable to the tow vehicle hooked up;))

There has got to be a better system out there.
 
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NewHere2

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SMITTY, the easiest way around the breakaway is to cut the blue wire ( shown in PB’s pic) coming from the breakaway battery to the trailer.

You would have to tape up both ends of the wire you cut. One end would be hot from the battery, and the other end would be hot when you step on the brakes of the truck.

Like others have said, the breakaway has no impact on the controller gain. If and when it is applied by pulling the switch, it’s full on.

Might also look for corrosion where your wire harness plugs into the plug in your bumper.

If it’s not a factory plug and play controller, look for corrosion where they spliced the wires in.
 
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roughneck266

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So can I just cut these wires? Black , White & Bue ?
Just disconnect the battery and tape the wires up. Battery only comes into play when the switch plug gets pulled. While it's still connected to the truck, the brake wire from the vehicle is what powers the brakes.
As previously stated, you almost certainly have an issue with the wiring under the trailer. I rewire trailers as a side gig while I am home from the rig and have gotten it pretty much down to a science at this point. It's almost always because folks like to use those crappy connectors that cut the wires.
These:

Those things were invented by Satan to make us never stop working on trailers. Seriously though, they actually cut into the wire your trying to splice from, and reduce the cross section. Way better off biting the bullet and soldering the connections if you can.
I usually use cheap harbor freight extension cords to wire trailers. I have found that they last a long time since they come with an extra PVC coating on the outside.
EDIT: looks like was both wrong and late in my response. Maybe someone else will get something useful from it anyway.
 
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