P1000 Troubleshooting a True Isolator.........Help!!!!

[nitzo]

Ok guys, I can leave my batteries with no charger on them, I can leave them with a trickle charger on, the blue light never shuts off. If I don't put a charger on, in a matter of 4 or 5 days it won't start. Can someone please point me in the right direction of troubleshooting this, everything I have is new. I'm not sure if it ever worked right or not, I know, I know, I should know that, but I don't. Thanks for the help. I've attached a picture maybe it will help someone see something obvious.

 

[Admin]

 

[Tramguage1]

Disconnect the wire on aux battery side of the isolator. Then charge the main battery separately. Try starting after a few days.
Also get a closer pic please.

 

[DDDonkey]

The first thing that I would do is unhook everything form the OEM battery that is not stock, and disconnect the true battery isolator and see if that fixes the problem. If it does then its your wiring, if it still dies then check that the OEM battery is still good.

 

[BBLASER]

Have you tried turning your key to the on position with the engine off, then turn on you lightbar or something on your secondary battery. Check and see if it isolates pretty fast as it should. If it does, chances are your stock battery is bad or you have something that is drawing power while sitting. If all is good, hit your breaker open, which should open up your secondary battery from everything and try and see if that stops your battery from draining.

 

[Hondasxs]

Sorry bud. That pictures is no help at all. Hahaha.

The isolator is not the issue. In fact. If the secondary battery remains charged then it's doing its job.

I would do as said above. Remove everything from the primary and give it a few days and see if it goes bad.

Most likley it's a bad battery. Which seems to be common.

My 2019 battery was dead within a month of ownership. Other people reported this as well.

Well. Good luck.

 

[Ericthered]

True Isolator told me the light was supposed to stay on, even after shut-down. It kills your battery. As soon as it warms up I am going to install a master shut-off to stop the isolator from killing my main battery. The isolator does keep my secondary battery full up, so I can jump myself. But this thing should shut off, not kill your battery repeatedly. Has drained mine over 20 times now.

 

[Hondasxs]

True Isolator told me the light was supposed to stay on, even after shut-down. It kills your battery. As soon as it warms up I am going to install a master shut-off to stop the isolator from killing my main battery. The isolator does keep my secondary battery full up, so I can jump myself. But this thing should shut off, not kill your battery repeatedly. Has drained mine over 20 times now.

If you have the voltmeter kit, you can use the relay included as its own trigger. Then the Isolator will only work when the key is on.
The relay unit if wired correctly creates a key-ed ground trigger. Use this as the ground point for the small black wire and your set.
The isolator will now ONLY work on when the key is on and voltage over 12.8v.

The isolator cuts off at 12.7 volts. and on at 12.8 volts (+-) and works both ways.
So both batteries must be 12.7 or less for it to cut off.
For it to cut ON. only 1 battery (either) must be above 12.8 volts.

 

[nitzo]

Sorry bud. That pictures is no help at all. Hahaha.

The isolator is not the issue. In fact. If the secondary battery remains charged then it's doing its job.

I would do as said above. Remove everything from the primary and give it a few days and see if it goes bad.

Most likley it's a bad battery. Which seems to be common.

My 2019 battery was dead within a month of ownership. Other people reported this as well.

Well. Good luck.

This is exactly what I'll do.

 

[nitzo]

The first thing that I would do is unhook everything form the OEM battery that is not stock, and disconnect the true battery isolator and see if that fixes the problem. If it does then its your wiring, if it still dies then check that the OEM battery is still good.

As I was told by many of ya'll, I changed out my OEM battery and everything seems to be working fine, and now the blue light on the isolator will turn off after about 30 minutes of being shut down. I didn't state in my fist post that the isolator light was staying on the whole time and never going off.

Now, can someone please tell me exactly what was going on. Light was on all the time, unit wouldn't start. New battery, light goes off, unit starts. WTF, I guess the old OEM was shot huh?

The isolator cuts off at 12.7 volts. and on at 12.8 volts (+-) and works both ways.
So both batteries must be 12.7 or less for it to cut off.
For it to cut ON. only 1 battery (either) must be above 12.8 volts.

When the light is on the isolator is off?

 

[Tramguage1]

When the isolator light is "ON" the bridge is closed.( both batteries connected)
When the light is off the the connection is open.(batteries are NOT connected).
When you turn off the machine the light will stay on until the voltages drop below 12.7 vdc.

 

[nitzo]

When the isolator light is "ON" the bridge is closed.( both batteries connected)
When the light is off the the connection is open.(batteries are NOT connected).
When you turn off the machine the light will stay on until the voltages drop below 12.7 vdc.

Think how scary the world is. I work as a lineman, I deal with 15k volts daily, and I can not for the life of me wrap my head around this concept.
Sad, sad, sad.......