P500 Tying in ROPs to rear rack a no-no?

[PNWGuy]

Picking up my 2018 P5 next week and opted for the dealer to install the roof, winch, and street legal kit. I need a rack immediately so my 100lb lab/great dane mix can ride with me. I perused the excellent rack thread and saw some amazing ideas.

One design I didn't see that I think would add a bunch more storage options is attaching bars from the ROPs down the sides and tying them into the back of a custom rack.

Kind of like this but attached directly to the ROPs...



Those side bars can be used to attach RotoPax and roll bar storage bags...

But I think I recall someone saying that the ROPs system flexes and moves during certain maneuvers so attaching something directly to it and back to a rear rack might not be a good idea...

 

[lee]

Two things.

The frame of the vehicle may flex (twist) more that you expect.
This would lead to somthing having more stress than it likes.
My guess is the rack will flex too much and break if you tie it to the ROPS.

The picture you attached is separate from the ROPS.
That's not a bad idea, it's tied in to the bed or on a p500 it would be the rack.
Somthing to keep in mind, if (when) you roll it over the additional roll hoop will put a lot of force in to the rack.
The rack seams to be OK contacting the ground along the sides with out too much damage - I have had mine over 4 times with no damage.
But the rear rack is connected to the frame well in from the side, a roll hoop connected at the edge of the rack will have a lot of leverage and possibly bend somthing.
I would recommend the roll hoop be lower than and a little narrower than the ROPS.

Looks interesting, let us know what you come up with.

 

[Euphorean]

We are picking up our new P5 next week and we are in the same boat, or UTV, I guess. We have a black lab that we wanna safely take with us. Please post what you come up with as I like your ideas so far.

 

[Euphorean]

I was actually just thinking thinking of a cage option where the front and sides don’t move but the top and back are connected and hinged at the back of the rack. The angles would be designed in such a way that when you fold the top and back away from the P5 the roof becomes a step halfway between the ground in the rack. This would make it easier for Buddy to get in and out especially when he gets older.

Do you to weight and leverage, I would probably make the top of the rack come up against the hitch somehow when it’s down for Reinforcement.

Once I get the P5, I’m going to take some measurements and draw it up in AutoCAD.

1” steel tube should be plenty strong enough with gussets. I plan to do webbing on the front and sides. Probably with the space in the front metal for him to stick his head out so he can “be with us “

The other benefit to that design would be that stopping quickly would press his chest against webbing instead of steel bars and a side turn that he wasn’t prepared for would also bounce him off webbing instead of steel bars.

The back could also be webbing but the top will have to be rigid because it is dual purpose as a step.

 

[100Acre]

Front Seat. Best Co-Pilot Ever

 

[PNWGuy]

Front Seat.
View attachment 81620

I don't think there's enough room in the front for Rowdy. He didn't fit in my Jeep front seat. He's a big freakin' dog...

 

[KYhillbilly]

I would give it a try if you roll it you would have bigger issues if the dog is riding than worrying about bending something. You could even use a flexible joint where you attach it to the ROPS. I have seen Rangers with a similar set up attached to the ROPS where they have a another shelf above the bed.

 

[Euphorean]

My plan for our Labrador retriever is similar. Rigid cage frame on the front and sides with webbing so if the dog bumps the front or side so he will hit webbing instead of metal.

I plan for the back and top to be attached to each other and then I will put a hinge along the back rack so that the top and back flip down and the angles will be designed so that the top of the cage becomes a step halfway between the rack and the ground. This’ll make it easier for the dog to get In and out. In the down position the folding part of the rack will come up Against the receiver for stability.

When I get the P5 next week I’ll take some measurements and design it in AutoCAD. I’ll design it for a 250 pound step capacity which should be more than anything that will ever get on it. All of the webbing will clipped to the bars with plastic buckles so the webbing can be taken off if I ever want to for some reason.

If I can’t find premade webbing that I want I will probably just buy a roll of 3 inch seat belt material and sew it up so it’s custom fit.

I will use weld on hinges similar to what you see on the back of the dump trailers. It’s probably overkill but much better than a piano hinge style because it will allow some flex

 

[Euphorean]

My plan for our Labrador retriever is similar. Rigid cage frame on the front and sides with webbing so if the dog bumps the front or side so he will hit webbing instead of metal.

I plan for the back and top to be attached to each other and then I will put a hinge along the back rack so that the top and back flip down and the angles will be designed so that the top of the cage becomes a step halfway between the rack and the ground. This’ll make it easier for the dog to get In and out. In the down position the folding part of the rack will come up Against the receiver for stability.

When I get the P5 next week I’ll take some measurements and design it in AutoCAD. I’ll design it for a 250 pound step capacity which should be more than anything that will ever get on it. All of the webbing will clipped to the bars with plastic buckles so the webbing can be taken off if I ever want to for some reason.

If I can’t find premade webbing that I want I will probably just buy a roll of 3 inch seat belt material and sew it up so it’s custom fit.

I will use weld on hinges similar to what you see on the back of the dump trailers. It’s probably overkill but much better than a piano hinge style because it will allow some flex

I’ll probably build the entire thing as a single piece so it can just clamp to the rack and be easily removed. I was going to attach to the ROP’s but after reading the first part of this thread I’m not going to do that and less I attach with some kind of a rubber attachment method that allows flex

 

[Euphorean]

I haven’t decided whether to go with mild steel or aluminum yet but once it’s drawn up I’ll be able to calculate weight and see if I have to go aluminum or not. If it’s light enough and steel, I will probably powder coated and do it in steel.

 

[Bastardchild]

@PNWGuy Have bushings on both ends of your down bar that goes from the factory rops to the rear rack. That way it flexes some. There are tons of roll cage connections online. Just a thought.

 

[Bastardchild]

Maybe a high offset heim joint on one end and a bushing on the other. Whatever you do post pics for us! Ok im out.

 

[100Acre]

Since I bent my front ROPS a little at the takeover, I am thinking about a way to maybe do something similar for a rear cage. I do like the door panel bags for added storage too. I was thinking since it wasn't bent too bad to try and figure out a way to add it to the rear. I'm still waiting on my new front rops to arrive.

 

[jmcampbell54]

I was actually just thinking thinking of a cage option where the front and sides don’t move but the top and back are connected and hinged at the back of the rack. The angles would be designed in such a way that when you fold the top and back away from the P5 the roof becomes a step halfway between the ground in the rack. This would make it easier for Buddy to get in and out especially when he gets older.

Do you to weight and leverage, I would probably make the top of the rack come up against the hitch somehow when it’s down for Reinforcement.

Once I get the P5, I’m going to take some measurements and draw it up in AutoCAD.

1” steel tube should be plenty strong enough with gussets. I plan to do webbing on the front and sides. Probably with the space in the front metal for him to stick his head out so he can “be with us “

The other benefit to that design would be that stopping quickly would press his chest against webbing instead of steel bars and a side turn that he wasn’t prepared for would also bounce him off webbing instead of steel bars.

The back could also be webbing but the top will have to be rigid because it is dual purpose as a step.

Sooooo when you building these things?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tflynn]

Thought you might find this interesting. Yes it’s a 700 so not apples to apples but might give some ideas for your build

P700 - Rear cage add on to P2