Why Run Full Coverage Skid Plates / A-Arm Guards

[JACKAL]

OK I am a firm believer of trying to protect an investment, especially if that protection might save you from walking / getting towed home from busted casings of Engine, transmission, differentials, etc. In addition proper full coverage skid plates far exceed occupant protect offered by either the OEM plastic ( All Pioneers except P1KLE) or aluminum skid plates (P1KLE models) from object coming trough the floor boards along either side. The side bars of the frame on all models are uncovered and susceptible to considerable deformation from striking rocks and roots on the trail.

I was servicing my 2018 P1K5LE today getting it ready for the Colorado ride, noticed a corner of the OEM aluminum ski plate hanging down, so figured I would just take everything off straighten it out and change the fluids while the skids were completely off. I knew I had incurred trail carnage from hitting the rocky trails where I live, but never really looked it over closely, as in typical Honda fashion, just gas it up, change the oil at proper intervals, and have fun hitting the trails. I was a little surprised at how much of a beating the OEM aluminum skids had undergone. I have always been spoiled running UHMW skid plates and A-arm guards on all 3 of my previous SXS having installed them when new.

So below is a little photo essay of both a 2015 P500 OEM plastic vs. UHMW full kit (SSS) and a 2018 P1K5D OEM plastic vs. UHMW full kit (FUTV 1/2") both installed on new machines.

Finally a 2018 P1K5LE that comes factory with aluminum skid plates & A-arm guards that has almost 3000 miles on it riding in East TN and the beating it took. Photos speak for themselves.

(Click thumbnails for full size images)

First up P500 Before & After

OEM / UHMW


Next 2018 P1K5D Before / After


P1K comparison FUTV UHMW left / OEM plastic right, side by side off machine.



2018 P1K5LE aluminum skids after nearly 3,000 miles of trails that @JTW describes as gravel roads






Frame side tube damage and deformation




Note I mentioned earlier that I noticed a corner of the aluminum skid plate hanging down, turns out 3 bolts had been sheared off as the OEM mounting solution has the bolt heads and washers exposed whereas the UHMW skids they are recessed, the difference between skidplates that are 0.125" vs. 0.500" in thickness.

Needless to say, the aluminum skids are not going back on, I have FUTV 1/2" Ultimate kit on the way. The deformed side sections of the frame are not cheap to replace, Parts #8 & 9 from the fiche below:

Pipe Right Step 50370-HL4-A00 $298.86
Pipe Left Step 50380-HL4_A00 $535.43

$834 for the pair at discounted pricing - not beating these up pays for the cost of the UHMW skids alone not to mention the peace of mind. I am just going to re-skin my tubes by welding a section of 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle iron over the outer damaged tubing 41" length. Lesson learned.

 

[Admin]

 

[Montecresto]

Very nice review.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

3/16" thick angle on my side rails has held up great on mine. One leg on the bottom and the other on the outside of the tube. It's also thick enough on the bottom to tap for the skid bolts now - 1/4"-20. Think i used 1.75" or 2" angle.

 

[ohanacreek]

3/16" angle on my side rails has held up great on mine. One leg on the bottom and the other on the outside of the tube. It's also thick enough on the bottom to tap for the skid bolts now - 1/4"-20.

Straightening the tubes and welding the angle on is on the docket for this Saturday for me. Tackett, “Lunchtime” and “Rock Creek” at Stony have bowed mine up under the rear steps.

 

[ohanacreek]

OK I am a firm believer of trying to protect an investment, especially if that protection might save you from walking / getting towed home from busted casings of Engine, transmission, differentials, etc. In addition proper full coverage skid plates far exceed occupant protect offered by either the OEM plastic ( All Pioneers except P1KLE) or aluminum skid plates (P1KLE models) from object coming trough the floor boards along either side. The side bars of the frame on all models are uncovered and susceptible to considerable deformation from striking rocks and roots on the trail.

I was servicing my 2018 P1K5LE today getting it ready for the Colorado ride, noticed a corner of the OEM aluminum ski plate hanging down, so figured I would just take everything off straighten it out and change the fluids while the skids were completely off. I knew I had incurred trail carnage from hitting the rocky trails where I live, but never really looked it over closely, as in typical Honda fashion, just gas it up, change the oil at proper intervals, and have fun hitting the trails. I was a little surprised at how much of a beating the OEM aluminum skids had undergone. I have always been spoiled running UHMW skid plates and A-arm guards on all 3 of my previous SXS having installed them when new.

So below is a little photo essay of both a 2015 P500 OEM plastic vs. UHMW full kit (SSS) and a 2018 P1K5D OEM plastic vs. UHMW full kit (FUTV 1/2") both installed on new machines.

Finally a 2018 P1K5LE that comes factory with aluminum skid plates & A-arm guards that has almost 3000 miles on it riding in East TN and the beating it took. Photos speak for themselves.

(Click thumbnails for full size images)

First up P500 Before & After

OEM / UHMW
View attachment 147509 View attachment 147510

Next 2018 P1K5D Before / After
View attachment 147511 View attachment 147513

P1K comparison FUTV UHMW left / OEM plastic right, side by side off machine.

View attachment 147514

2018 P1K5LE aluminum skids after nearly 3,000 miles of trails that @JTW describes as gravel roads

View attachment 147516
View attachment 147517 View attachment 147518
View attachment 147519 View attachment 147520


Frame side tube damage and deformation
View attachment 147521 View attachment 147522
View attachment 147523 View attachment 147524


Note I mentioned earlier that I noticed a corner of the aluminum skid plate hanging down, turns out 3 bolts had been sheared off as the OEM mounting solution has the bolt heads and washers exposed whereas the UHMW skids they are recessed, the difference between skidplates that are 0.125" vs. 0.500" in thickness.

Needless to say, the aluminum skids are not going back on, I have FUTV 1/2" Ultimate kit on the way. The deformed side sections of the frame are not cheap to replace, Parts #8 & 9 from the fiche below:

Pipe Right Step 50370-HL4-A00 $298.86
Pipe Left Step 50380-HL4_A00 $535.43

$834 for the pair at discounted pricing - not beating these up pays for the cost of the UHMW skids alone not to mention the peace of mind. I am just going to re-skin my tubes by welding a section of half pipe over the outer damaged length. Lesson learned.

View attachment 147525

I’m curious what someones cross members looks like who has had the ½” UHMW from day one. The ⅜ UHMW is much better than factory.

 

[JTW]

Lol.. yeah, the gravel has been hard on ya!

 

[snuffnwhisky]

I’m curious what someones cross members looks like who has had the ½” UHMW from day one. The ⅜ UHMW is much better than factory.

Not very good here haha. Porta power and sledge to get the tubes straight enough for the angles.

 

[JTW]

2” x 1/4” angle has been awesome. And hides all the f*** you’s on the side rails. Gives a nice flat mounting point for the 1/2” uhmw. I just bolted mine through the rails. And everything is still holding tight.

 

[100Acre]

2” x 1/4” angle has been awesome. And hides all the f*** you’s on the side rails. Gives a nice flat mounting point for the 1/2” uhmw. I just bolted mine through the rails. And everything is still holding tight. View attachment 147529View attachment 147530View attachment 147531

I’m gonna have to attach some angle iron for that. Great idea!
I’ve got UHMW on both my 500 and 1000-5. A piece of mind saves $$$$ later. Yes the initial investment is high but the damage can become higher and that right quick!

 

[ohanacreek]

Lol.. yeah, the gravel has been hard on ya!

Just really big gravel

 

[ToddACimer]

I'm really happy that round 2 got the side rails beefed up before they got dents.

Do the frame crossmembers while you're down there

 

[Montecresto]

I'm really happy that round 2 got the side rails beefed up before they got dents.

View attachment 147556
View attachment 147557

Do the frame crossmembers while you're down there

View attachment 147558

That’s really cool.....

 

[Russ989]

I had 300 miles on mine when I pulled the factory skid and put on the trail armor. IMO the factory skid might protect when doing yard work but not much else. I bent the middle sheet metal section playing on frozen snow piles. I have aluminum a-arm guards but would like to upgrade those at some point.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

I’m curious what someones cross members looks like who has had the ½” UHMW from day one. The ⅜ UHMW is much better than factory.

I had the 1/2" uhmw from day one and tackett creek was a little rough on the cross members. I welded in new supports and it's all good now.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Stauvo]

Hooly sneikies!!!I hit a few rocks and now considering plates and some of you have wear like I have never seen. I’m so sheltered! Lol.

 

[Russ989]

Hooly sneikies!!!I hit a few rocks and now considering plates and some of you have wear like I have never seen. I’m so sheltered! Lol.

Buy the full UHMW skid!!!! Don’t think about it, just do it. All of the guys on here told me to buy one before going to the Takeover, they were right. After the first 20 miles it had already paid for itself and I didn’t ride Tackett and some of the tougher trails they did. Buy the skid unless your pioneer is a yard ornament or pavement princess!

 

[Stauvo]

Buy the full UHMW skid!!!! Don’t think about it, just do it. All of the guys on here told me to buy one before going to the Takeover, they were right. After the first 20 miles it had already paid for itself and I didn’t ride Tackett and some of the tougher trails they did. Buy the skid unless your pioneer is a yard ornament or pavement princess!

Lol. It’s no pavement princess but have not been exposed to rocky areas until last weekend. I will now start looking at UHMW skids as we start venturing out to other trail systems.

 

[Baldeagle]

Buy the full UHMW skid!!!! Don’t think about it, just do it. All of the guys on here told me to buy one before going to the Takeover, they were right. After the first 20 miles it had already paid for itself and I didn’t ride Tackett and some of the tougher trails they did. Buy the skid unless your pioneer is a yard ornament or pavement princess!

Agree 100%. 1/2” uhmw is the best investment you can make. You just never know what your going to find along the trail. It’s usually always a surprise that does the damage. I prefer to do my own skid plates and now that I’ve done a few it’s just as fast as mounting an prebuilt aftermarket. I like my own because I end up with way few joints and holes. On both the p700 and p1 k units I’ve done. I’ve split the plates so that the 2 outside plates that extend out past the side rub bars also fit firmly beside the frame. This is so that any pressure on the skid that extends past the rub bars is transmitted directly to the frame. No pressure on the mounting bolts. The center part of skid which I make out of a single piece from front to back also extends sideways past the frame to protect the joint with the side plates. The uhmw slides over everything from rocks to trees and mud and muskeg. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking. I know lots of people who don’t go for the heavy skid plate till after they have to pay for an engine or some other damage. Then they don’t think the heavy skid plate is expensive at all. The aluminum skid plate on the p1k LE is ok. But personally, I would take it off and sell it and go with a full uhmw. Happy trails.


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[Russ989]

Agree 100%. 1/2” uhmw is the best investment you can make. You just never know what your going to find along the trail. It’s usually always a surprise that does the damage. I prefer to do my own skid plates and now that I’ve done a few it’s just as fast as mounting an prebuilt aftermarket. I like my own because I end up with way few joints and holes. On both the p700 and p1 k units I’ve done. I’ve split the plates so that the 2 outside plates that extend out past the side rub bars also fit firmly beside the frame. This is so that any pressure on the skid that extends past the rub bars is transmitted directly to the frame. No pressure on the mounting bolts. The center part of skid which I make out of a single piece from front to back also extends sideways past the frame to protect the joint with the side plates. The uhmw slides over everything from rocks to trees and mud and muskeg. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking. I know lots of people who don’t go for the heavy skid plate till after they have to pay for an engine or some other damage. Then they don’t think the heavy skid plate is expensive at all. The aluminum skid plate on the p1k LE is ok. But personally, I would take it off and sell it and go with a full uhmw. Happy trails.


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It’s the best money I’ve spent.

 

[Adam490]

2” x 1/4” angle has been awesome. And hides all the f*** you’s on the side rails. Gives a nice flat mounting point for the 1/2” uhmw. I just bolted mine through the rails. And everything is still holding tight. View attachment 147529View attachment 147530View attachment 147531

I was at tractor supply to pick up some angle on Friday but they only had one piece in stock so I figured I'd just wait and get both pieces at the same time. Fast forward a few hours and I could have really used those damn things...