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P1000 Winch wiring

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wesward15

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Gonna move my Honda Warn winch to auxiliary battery. Question‘s are without sounding stupid….hopefully😂! True dual battery system will also be installed

1: Positive and negative cables from the winch contactor straight to the battery ok?
2: The remote is obviously a plug and play wiring harness, does it stay in the same location/on the factory battery or does it also have to moved to aux battery?
3: Gonna install a stinger relay. Is it possible to take positive lead to the load side of the relay along with my fuse block cable? Is the 80 amp max of the stinger sufficient if so?

Bare with me here… learning a lot but not fast enough! Anything I’m leaving out you suggest, let me know.

Thanks for all your help!!!
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Hi,

1- Yes, winch, both positive and negative should be direct to the second battery to contain the load within the shortest loop possible.
2- The remote pulls almost no power, it should be on a key-on circuit. (small red wire usually). Yes, that would be the primary battery. No concern with that small load.
3 - I doubt you will have more than 80 amps of accessories (winch excluded). So working backward from the fuse box, Large guage wire to the stinger, then from the stinger to the second battery. You can trigger the stinger using the same key-on wire or a switched constant for key-off usage. If you wish to use both you need to wire it correctly to prevent back feed or install a diode.

thanks.
 
WagginTail

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Agree with @Hondasxs
Did you purchase the stinger relay yet? My machine (2018 1000-5) is on its 2nd one and it's going bad. I haven't read good things about them. I purchased another brand but haven't installed it yet
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Agree with @Hondasxs
Did you purchase the stinger relay yet? My machine (2018 1000-5) is on its 2nd one and it's going bad. I haven't read good things about them. I purchased another brand but haven't installed it yet
So Stingers are only listed as water-resistant. They are prone to freeze and get moisture inside and fail.
I recommend a sealed unit like this - the https://amzn.to/3miTN3A
There are few other sealed units out there.
 
WagginTail

WagginTail

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So Stingers are only listed as water-resistant. They are prone to freeze and get moisture inside and fail.
I recommend a sealed unit like this - the https://amzn.to/3miTN3A
There are few other sealed units out there.
Yep. I went with this one. I'm kinda limited on space and like that the posts are all on one end. Hopefully it lasts. The first stinger on mine one of the big posts all but pulled out. The 2nd one I have to tap on it to get it to work and then when it does it doesn't want to shut off. Don't think it's a moisture issue

Screenshot 20211026 195000 Amazon Shopping
 
StewB

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A lot of people use Stingers and are happy. But 80A seemed to be overkill for my setup.
I used a 30A auto relay and it's worked fine for the whopping 9 months since install.
I don't have much current running through the relay to the fuse box because my lights aren't large and have their own relay.
I'll circle back when it fails.
But I bought a five-pack of 30A relays for about $15 and keep a spare in the tool kit.
 
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wesward15

Member
Oct 18, 2021
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  1. 1000-5
Hi,

1- Yes, winch, both positive and negative should be direct to the second battery to contain the load within the shortest loop possible.
2- The remote pulls almost no power, it should be on a key-on circuit. (small red wire usually). Yes, that would be the primary battery. No concern with that small load.
3 - I doubt you will have more than 80 amps of accessories (winch excluded). So working backward from the fuse box, Large guage wire to the stinger, then from the stinger to the second battery. You can trigger the stinger using the same key-on wire or a switched constant for key-off usage. If you wish to use both you need to wire it correctly to prevent back feed or install a diode.

thanks.
Thank you! Is the relay only needed if I want the key on capability?
 
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W

wesward15

Member
Oct 18, 2021
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39
13
GA
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
Agree with @Hondasxs
Did you purchase the stinger relay yet? My machine (2018 1000-5) is on its 2nd one and it's going bad. I haven't read good things about them. I purchased another brand but haven't installed it yet
The stinger is on the way but can always send it back. I want what is needed and has the best results. I’ll look into other brands to. Thank you
 
W

wesward15

Member
Oct 18, 2021
16
39
13
GA
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
Gonna move my Honda Warn winch to auxiliary battery. Question‘s are without sounding stupid….hopefully😂! True dual battery system will also be installed

1: Positive and negative cables from the winch contactor straight to the battery ok?
2: The remote is obviously a plug and play wiring harness, does it stay in the same location/on the factory battery or does it also have to moved to aux battery?
3: Gonna install a stinger relay. Is it possible to take positive lead to the load side of the relay along with my fuse block cable? Is the 80 amp mstinger sufficient if so?

Bare with me here… learning a lot but not fast enough! Anything I’m leaving out you suggest, let me know.

Thanks for all your help!!!
@Hondasxs
I guess a part of one of my original questions is, does it matter that the positive and negative cables feeding the winch contactor (auxiliary battery) are from a different source than the wiring coming from the remote (factory battery)?Or does the true dual system change that or does it matter at all?
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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@Hondasxs
I guess a part of one of my original questions is, does it matter that the positive and negative cables feeding the winch contactor (auxiliary battery) are from a different source than the wiring coming from the remote (factory battery)?Or does the true dual system change that or does it matter at all?

No. Doesn't matter.
One powers the actual winch. (Large guage wires)
The other just tells the contactor which way to "turn on". In or out.

It doesn't care where the 12v+ comes from.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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