P1000 Wireless winch controller

[Bandman]

I got a remote controller from Amazon.

My winch solenoid has these connectors:

I connected the leads to these connectors (using the white wire to the blue post) and it doesn’t work. I also tried connecting the red/black wires directly to the battery. it clicks but the winch doesn’t work. What am I missing?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

No no..

Stop while it's not broke.
Standby.

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[Hondasxs]

Red needs 12v.
Needs to be key-on or switched. You don't want it to have power constantly.

Black needs ground. Get it anywhere really.

Yellow and white are the contactor control wires.
Merge one with the small green.
Merge the other with the small black.
If it works reverse switch yellow and white.

I have a better pic. Let me find it.

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[Hondasxs]

Here it is



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[Hondasxs]

Get some of those piggy back spade connectors for the green and black.

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[bumperm]

What @Hondasxs said, of course. However, I made one small change for what I consider "safety" and convenience. The receiver's small red wire, instead of going to "key on" positive power, goes to a small on-off rocker switch on the instrument panel. The other side of that switch goes to always-on power. For mine, that's from a fuse block on the Aux battery, (or you can use the always on power at the 12 volt outlet etc.

There are two reasons for the above. I've read that the wireless receiver can be triggered by RFI (radio frequency interference). If this occurred it could damage the winch if it powers in un-commanded. It is desirable to operate the winch without the ignition on - of course, but only if the engine can be run so the alternator can provide some help providing power to the winch. In a situation where you cannot run the engine, for whatever reason, then having to have the ignition switch on is a detriment as the system will be wasting battery power for the electronics, ECU, etc.

If small children are involved, the winch wireless kill switch could be hidden etc.

 

[Bandman]

Get some of those piggy back spade connectors for the green and black. View attachment 373281

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Great idea!

 

[Bandman]

Thanks for the great information! I figured it couldn’t be that easy!

So to confirm;
1. the white and yellow go to the small connectors using a piggyback spade connector to the small green and black connector on the side of the relay.
2. red goes to the spare keyed connector wrapped in blue tape (I noticed male and female parts of the connector are there)
3. Black to ground. Can I just ground to the negative post of the battery?

 

[PawPaw]

The radio thing actually happen to me on a badlands and a badlands wireless. Tore up a practically brand new 5000. I panicked and didn’t get it turned off in time. I use a rocker off my auxiliary now for on/off.

 

[bumperm]

Thanks for the great information! I figured it couldn’t be that easy!

So to confirm;
1. the white and yellow go to the small connectors using a piggyback spade connector to the small green and black connector on the side of the relay.
2. red goes to the spare keyed connector wrapped in blue tape (I noticed male and female parts of the connector are there)
3. Black to ground. Can I just ground to the negative post of the battery?

When you get 'er hooked up, if on the wireless the control buttons are reversed (i.e. In is out and out is in), simply swap white and yellow wires.

 

[Bucks]

Red needs 12v.
Needs to be key-on or switched. You don't want it to have power constantly.

Black needs ground. Get it anywhere really.

Yellow and white are the contactor control wires.
Merge one with the small green.
Merge the other with the small black.
If it works reverse switch yellow and white.

I have a better pic. Let me find it. View attachment 373279

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I have a question about this as well. I understand the not wanting power to the receiver all the time, but when I did mine to key on power the remote would have to be reprogrammed every time I shut off the machine. I had to switch it to direct power so it is on all the time. Am I missing something?

 

[Hondasxs]

I have a question about this as well. I understand the not wanting power to the receiver all the time, but when I did mine to key on power the remote would have to be reprogrammed every time I shut off the machine. I had to switch it to direct power so it is on all the time. Am I missing something?

The remote is set to "time out" so you can't operate it inappropriate.
You have to "wake" it.
The gray handheld you hold the 2 buttons for 5 seconds.
The black handheld you push the red button.

There should not be a need to reprogram it each time. But doing so would "wake" it and appear as tho this is required if you are unaware of the wake feature.

If this is not happening then the unit may be defective.

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[Bucks]

The remote is set to "time out" so you can't operate it inappropriate.
You have to "wake" it.
The gray handheld you hold the 2 buttons for 5 seconds.
The black handheld you push the red button.

There should not be a need to reprogram it each time. But doing so would "wake" it and appear as tho this is required if you are unaware of the wake feature.

If this is not happening then the unit may be defective.

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Hell's Bell's, that's why you guys are the G.O.A.T's. Looks like I will be switching mine back today. Thanks!!

 

[Bandman]

Long story short; I fried the remote when I first hooked it up and am waiting for a new one but I have ordered a 5-pin ‘Winch Power’ rocker from ‘The Store‘ to switch the power from the key-on ACC connection while running. How do I power the back-light to come on with the rest of the dash?
TIA

 

[Scoop]

Long story short; I fried the remote when I first hooked it up and am waiting for a new one but I have ordered a 5-pin ‘Winch Power’ rocker from ‘The Store‘ to switch the power from the key-on ACC connection while running. How do I power the back-light to come on with the rest of the dash?
TIA

If you follow the wiring diagram that's shown as one of the pictures on the product page, the LED for AUX will light up when you have AUX selected on the switch and the LED for key-on will light up only when you have key-on selected on the switch AND the ignition is on. If the switch is in the middle position, neither LED will light. You'll note pins 8&3 and 10&1 are jumpers together, and pins 7&9 are jumpered AND grounded.

If you only want the key-on LED to light up when you have the headlight switch on and ignition on, I believe you'd need to splice a wire off the headlight switch that's only on when the headlights are and use that for 12v+ pin for the key-on LED (instead of jumpering it as described.

At least that's the way I remember it. I dunno - it's morning and I just woke up.

 

[Hondasxs]

Long story short; I fried the remote when I first hooked it up and am waiting for a new one but I have ordered a 5-pin ‘Winch Power’ rocker from ‘The Store‘ to switch the power from the key-on ACC connection while running. How do I power the back-light to come on with the rest of the dash?
TIA

Ground 7 & 8
Power in on 2
Power out on 3
6 is the bottom led. It can be jumped from 2. If 2 is ACC.

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[russknight]

Ground 7 & 8
Power in on 2
Power out on 3
6 is the bottom led. It can be jumped from 2. If 2 is ACC. View attachment 374859

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Hey boss, did you get my message?

 

[Bandman]

Hey boss, did you get my message?

I don’t think so…

 

[Bandman]

Ground 7 & 8
Power in on 2
Power out on 3
6 is the bottom led. It can be jumped from 2. If 2 is ACC. View attachment 374859

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Thank you! Ground to the battery, right?

 

[Hondasxs]

Thank you! Ground to the battery, right?

Any ground will work.

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