P500 2015 P500 Rear Inner Boot Replacement

[FuzzyGrub]

Long time from last post.

I was hooking up the boat trailer today, and noticed some "dampness" on driver rear frame. Yep, oil/grease. Inspection of boot shows some damage

I have watched a video on the front boot, and this would appear to be easier than dealing with front brakes and steering knuckles. Ordered the All Balls kit for rear inner boot. I also went thru the service manual, and didn't see anything that scared me.

Still, like to hear from those that have done it. Are there any surprises i should look out for? Hints/Tips?

PS: All the other boots look good.

Thx for your help.

John

 

[Admin]

 

[HUCK]

Long time from last post.

I was hooking up the boat trailer today, and noticed some "dampness" on driver rear frame. Yep, oil/grease. Inspection of boot shows some damage

I have watched a video on the front boot, and this would appear to be easier than dealing with front brakes and steering knuckles. Ordered the All Balls kit for rear inner boot. I also went thru the service manual, and didn't see anything that scared me.

Still, like to hear from those that have done it. Are there any surprises i should look out for? Hints/Tips?

PS: All the other boots look good.

Thx for your help.

John

View attachment 287702 View attachment 287703

Shoulda came here first . Clean it real good and coat in Shoe Goo . It should be good for a few years .

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Shoulda came here first . Clean it real good and coat in Shoe Goo . It should be good for a few years .

The $15 for the boot kit is nothing, compared to time to do the work.

What cleaners are recommended to remove dirt/oil without degrading the boot?

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I was able to find the Shoe Goo locally, at a hardware store. It should allow me to keep going and do the boot replace at a more convenient time. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I apologize if this is already documented elsewhere, and most likely better than what I will provide, but prefer to document fixes with repair threads.

I lifted the rear and rotated the wheels to get easier access to the damaged area and such that it would not be seeping oil/grease.

I used a degreaser on a new rag to clean the damaged area. Both spots are at the top of an accordion peak. See picture.

I also posted the mfg instructions below, which recommends thin layers with minimum 3 hours between, and fully cured in 72 hours. I plan to do 3-4 layers, with a minimum of 4 hours between each. First layer has been applied.

PS: This is the clear formula, but it also comes in black, but my local hardware store didn't have it Not sure if there is any chemical difference, outside of the black would blend for a better look.

 

[HUCK]

I apologize if this is already documented elsewhere, and most likely better than what I will provide, but prefer to document fixes with repair threads.

I lifted the rear and rotated the wheels to get easier access to the damaged area and such that it would not be seeping oil/grease.

I used a degreaser on a new rag to clean the damaged area. Both spots are at the top of an accordion peak. See picture.

I also posted the mfg instructions below, which recommends thin layers with minimum 3 hours between, and fully cured in 72 hours. I plan to do 3-4 layers, with a minimum of 4 hours between each. First layer has been applied.

PS: This is the clear formula, but it also comes in black, but my local hardware store didn't have it Not sure if there is any chemical difference, outside of the black would blend for a better look.

View attachment 288279 View attachment 288281

Hope it works for you too . I have read about several guys using this method and one guy said his had been holding for over 2 years BUT that could be 50 miles or 10000 miles , who knows .

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Once the repair is complete, will be monitoring it closely for new seepage.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Well, the 1st attempt was not successful.

I did three layers, but found it like to stick better to the toothpick than the boot. Fingers used to smooth out. While the 1st two coatings had many hours between, we did the ride after about 8 hours of last coat.

We took our "normal" one hour, before sunset ride, and checked it this AM. It is peeling off and grease is oozing out. It looks like all layers peeled off. I think I had too much on there and the glue could not flex to match the boot. I'm still waiting on the new boot, and will make one more attempt. I am going to "rough up" the spots with some sandpaper, like an innertube repair, and try a less is more approach to the glue.

 

[Montecresto]

I apologize if this is already documented elsewhere, and most likely better than what I will provide, but prefer to document fixes with repair threads.

I lifted the rear and rotated the wheels to get easier access to the damaged area and such that it would not be seeping oil/grease.

I used a degreaser on a new rag to clean the damaged area. Both spots are at the top of an accordion peak. See picture.

I also posted the mfg instructions below, which recommends thin layers with minimum 3 hours between, and fully cured in 72 hours. I plan to do 3-4 layers, with a minimum of 4 hours between each. First layer has been applied.

PS: This is the clear formula, but it also comes in black, but my local hardware store didn't have it Not sure if there is any chemical difference, outside of the black would blend for a better look.

View attachment 288279 View attachment 288281

I used it on a boot on my 2015 P5 several years ago, approximately 2K miles. I used the aerosol spray for electric parts contact cleaner and it worked exceedingly well. It’s been holding fine. I was lucky as mine was in the valley of the accordion so it had a mold to form and dry in….

 

[FuzzyGrub]

It could be a peak vs valley issue.

The old glue peeled off easily. The oil/grease got under the glue.

I cleaned it again, ruffed up the areas some, and cleaned again, with contact cleaner. thx for tip.

Tried small dabs of the glue. Given plans, it will be more than a 72 hour cure. At least the new boot will be here by the test ride.

 

[Montecresto]

It could be a peak vs valley issue.

The old glue peeled off easily. The oil/grease got under the glue.

I cleaned it again, ruffed up the areas some, and cleaned again, with contact cleaner. thx for tip.

Tried small dabs of the glue. Given plans, it will be more than a 72 hour cure. At least the new boot will be here by the test ride.

Nice! Good luck FG….👍

 

[sam3006]

I had a hole about an inch long mine, I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, put one layer of Shoe Goo in the fall of 2018 the night before leaving for a hunting trip to Colorado. I already had it loaded on the trailer to leave the next morning when I found the hole and I was just hoping it would hold until I got back home. Since then it's been to Colorado 4 times, been in temperatures from -10* to 105* , been in Arkansas mud and dust and is used everyday here on my farm and it's still holding.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Well, Shoe Goo didn't work for me. Don't know if it is just the top edge and the flexing or what.

Started the boot replacement today. The cotter pin gave me a little "fun" and required 1" spacers to be removed. The nut however is giving me a little more "fun' and have to order the 30mm socket.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Got home yesterday and socket was waiting for me. Started back at it today. The socket and 2' breaker bar did their thing. Turns out that there is some loctite on the threads, as I found out on the installation instructions.

I followed the service manual and everything progressed without allot of frustration. I am not ecstatic about the "All Balls" boot bands, but we will see. I cut the old off, so there was no re-using.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Some more photos:




Test drive, forthcoming.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I didn't want to say that everything was good on only a 5 min ride. Yesterday, we went for and hour and a half, and detect no oil/grease leaking. Calling it fixed and done.