P1000 Best PDM for Electrical Additions

amc019

amc019

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After reading numerous threads on adding electrical accessories to these rigs, I am at a loss as to which PDM I need. I would rather not have one that requires programming, and I would like each accessory to have its own relay. I plan to add my winch, USB port-switch, voltmeter, light bar, and reverse lights. No radio and if I did it would be a wet sound stealth 6 bar, so no need for a switch or relay for that I dont think. I would also like to have the entire PDM only come on when the key is turned on, that way I dont have to worry about leaving anything on accidentally.

I see that this has been used, but there is no way to turn it off and on, right? Or am I missing something? I mean if it makes everything easier, then it wont kill me to allow the switches to have power without the key on, but would like it as a safety measure. Would the 15 amp fused power circuits be used for the power to the switch, and then another wire back to the relay, and then another to the accessory?

Universal Relay/ fuse auxiliary distribution box jeep, Cooper Bussmann Off Road

I do not plan to run dual batteries either, as I never use electrical accessories without the engine running, and the most I could ever see myself using all at once are the lights and winch for a night-time trail adventure that went bad. Maybe upgrade to an odyssey battery when the stocker wears out but thats a ways away.

As for the switches, I would like to have the bottom light only light up when the headlights (tail-light wire) are on, and then the top light will be jumped off the main switch power to come on when the accessory is on. However, do I need to use some sort of relay for just the LED lights on the switches for when the lights are on, or will the factory tail-light power supply power the switches' LED lights with just a wire tap?

I am a pretty good at wiring, but just want to have everything in my mind worked out and ordered before I start the process. Should have one of Mystic's switch plates soon. I ordered all my switches though OTRATTW and have them already.

Thanks for the advice guys, and any pictures/wiring diagrams would be really appreciated.
 
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Kenjones21

Kenjones21

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I have the Cooper Bussman that you mentioned above, its very good quality and easy to hook up , however on the other I found it with the brackets it was very hard to find a place to mount it, I just removed the brackets and tie strapped it to part of the frame behind my 2nd battery.
 
Up2It

Up2It

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I really like the cooper busman fuse panel. I am just wiring my stuff now.
I attached my panel with clamps.
If you don't want the fuse panel to have power all the time just wire the supply side through a 60 or 100 amp relay. I used one as a battery isolator but you could have yours triggered either by the ignition switch or by a rocker switch. I might think about that as well...

Hope this helps

Image
 
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walexa07

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I really like the cooper busman fuse panel. I am just wiring my stuff now.
I attached my panel with clamps.
If you don't want the fuse panel to have power all the time just wire the supply side through a 60 or 100 amp relay. I used one as a battery isolator but you could have yours triggered either by the ignition switch or by a rocker switch. I might think about that as well...

Hope this helps

View attachment 11034

It doesn't already have a trigger wire? I've got one but haven't installed it yet.

Waylan
 
ghost

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I used the same distribution box.
Mine is powered thru a solenoid that is activated by my Aux Power switch but you could activate it (or a relay) with key-on power.
For the LEDs I would use a fused line that is activated by a relay - triggered by headlight power in your case. Mine are on when the Aux power is on. I have it running from a second battery so I can run work lights, usb charger, or even the winch without starting the machine.

By using relays with any stock wiring (power on, headlight, reverse ground trigger) , you minimize the risk of your system interfering with anything. The LEDs on my switches are pulling about 80 mA. if you had 10 that would be 800 mA - not a lot but I like to isolate as much as possible. My relays are about 150 mA. Even if you only have a couple of LEDs I would still use a relay as an extra layer of isolation.
 
tjoreo

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Thanks guys, I'll probably order one tonight.
@amc019 If you are interested in the above mention PDM I have one that I bought and have decided not to use it. I bought it about Xmas time when he only had a couple left. This forum has probably boosted his sales 10 fold. It is a very well made product, but I have decided to go a different route. If you think you could use it, I could save you a couple of bucks.
 
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tjoreo

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To answer a couple of your other questions. Mystic's panels are definitely the way to go. He does an excellent job designing and building them. And for the $25 there is really no other option. I actually had him custom make one that I designed and there was no hesitation or even a cost increase for his extra time. This forum is full of great people and Mystic is definitely one of them. Your question about the switch illumination is found when you ordered the switches. When you look through OTRATTW when you ordered the switches, it should of asked for upper or lower Independent light. If you got the lower independent then you are in business like you want. Like ghost is talking about above, you might want to relay to run these lighted leds, with the signal wire that turns the relay on coming off your headlight switch/wire somewhere.
 
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amc019

amc019

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Sounds good guys, I think I can use one of the relays for the switch lights since I will only have 4 switches, so that works.

I also ordered the switches with 2 leds, one switched on when the accessory is on, and one always on with light power.

Does anyone know where I can find a big enough relay for the switched on power to the entire PDM? So I can run it inline from the battery to the PDM. Then I will use the ignition power to turn on and off that relay, but I don't know what kind of large relay that would need to be.

@tjoreo, drop me a PM and we can discuss the price on your PDM.
 
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ghost

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Should be able to go direct with key-on power.
The coil on that solenoid probably draws around 1/2 amp.
The accessory key-on is 15 amp.

Just make you get one rated for continuous duty.
 
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amc019

amc019

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Should be able to go direct with key-on power.
The coil on that solenoid probably draws around 1/2 amp.
The accessory key-on is 15 amp.

Just make you get one rated for continuous duty.

What will the other smaller post on that solenoid be for, a ground wire perhaps?
 
ghost

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Having a hard time deciding to pick which relay to order off amazon, this one is used for dual battery setups, so I assume it is continuous duty?

I know nothing about the difference in the internals on relays and solenoids.

Amazon.com : Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay : Car Electronics
That one is a battery isolator plus relay.
It might work - I'm guessing it will switch off at lower voltages so it may automatically switch off when the system is not charging - or if your battery is very low. It's designed to sit between 2 batteries so you'd be going off spec in you application. If you want to keep it simple I would just go with a relay.

There are two terminal + - for the the coil (actuator) and 2 larger ones for the high current switched circuit.
 
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ghost

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I crammed mine down there.

IMG 2413
 
CashMoney

CashMoney

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Having a hard time deciding to pick which relay to order off amazon, this one is used for dual battery setups, so I assume it is continuous duty?

I know nothing about the difference in the internals on relays and solenoids.

Amazon.com : Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay : Car Electronics
That would work fine. The two smaller terminals are your trigger wire and ground. 12v will turn it on and when you don't have power going to it any more it will shut off.
 

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