P1000 Light Bar Hood Mount??

TripleB

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How bad is the glare when you mount the light bar just in front of the bottom half of windshield? Thinking about a 52" curved bar.
I've never had an issue with glare off the hood. It blocks a little of my line of sight. I'm 5'9" but if you're taller it shouldn't be any issue at all.
 
Remington

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No problem here either! Im thinking of going back to cubes on the sides. Its a 52”
Curved.
B61C3C76 E5BB 4496 8F73 66D8AE2CB1DB
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bumperm

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The hood mount is easy to wire and and mounts are relatively simple. But roof gives a better lighting angle when combined with the existing lower lights. More work to install, but it frees up room for the pods in a good location. I made the brackets for mine as I wanted the light to be aligned with the bottom edge of the roof, not blocking view and not above roof line. It's a 54" Nilight.

20211017 112959
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Remington

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The hood mount is easy to wire and and mounts are relatively simple. But roof gives a better lighting angle when combined with the existing lower lights. More work to install, but it frees up room for the pods in a good location. I made the brackets for mine as I wanted the light to be aligned with the bottom edge of the roof, not blocking view and not above roof line. It's a 54" Nilight.

View attachment 300305View attachment 300306
Dont know if you have drivin in brush or low brach/tree trails yet with your machine? Everyone I know that has put it on top like that have had issues with durability if you know what i mean. I ripped one off my old P5 with similar type brackets. If It works for you 👍
 
TripleB

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Dont know if you have drivin in brush or low brach/tree trails yet with your machine? Everyone I know that has put it on top like that have had issues with durability if you know what i mean. I ripped one off my old P5 with similar type brackets. If It works for you 👍
I'm sure the lighting would be better up there but I would've already torn it off at least a dozen times lol
 
bumperm

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I guess it's possible to trash anything if you try hard enough (or have too much fun), but since the light is a good bit below the roof line . . . is trashing roofs a widespread problem? In Nevada, we don't often encounter low hanging branches, high jumping jackrabbits and low flying F16s maybe.
 
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I guess it's possible to trash anything if you try hard enough (or have too much fun), but since the light is a good bit below the roof line . . . is trashing roofs a widespread problem? In Nevada, we don't often encounter low hanging branches, high jumping jackrabbits and low flying F16s maybe.
In the words of sleepy Joe..
C’mon man! Lol
Were not trashing anything nor did I imply such thing. Just Giving you what I seen from thousands of miles of varying terrain on various pioneers since 15’, and the roof is just not the best choice for “MOST” thats all! You wont hardly see that on a chop top lol. To your point, exactly most of us dont live it the desert (sorry I didnt look to see where u lived lol) so the roof might work for you like as if i rode the dunes we have up here only! I would suggest that in some of your seat time to come ride the Takeover to experience what were talking about then get back with us lol. ;)
 
Bigred48

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The hood mount is easy to wire and and mounts are relatively simple. But roof gives a better lighting angle when combined with the existing lower lights. More work to install, but it frees up room for the pods in a good location. I made the brackets for mine as I wanted the light to be aligned with the bottom edge of the roof, not blocking view and not above roof line. It's a 54" Nilight.

View attachment 300305View attachment 300306
Im thinking of the same set up. Does your light bounce any up high with those brackets?
 
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bumperm

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Im thinking of the same set up. Does your light bounce any up high with those brackets?
No, I made the brackets, (if that info isn't in the thread you saw). It's steady and firm both vertically and laterally. I was concerned mostly about laterally.

I will say that Nilights threaded cast end cap holes are not all that inspiring, so it's important to use the minimal thickness spacers (I made mine of Delrin) to allow for as much thread engagement with the bolts as possible - the threaded holes are blind.
 
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bumperm

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Further explanation of the previous post.

The Nilight LED bar comes with mounting brackets that have serrations to mate with those on the end caps. This allows the light bar to adjust and lock in place as far as declination is concerned. Since I didn't want to use their surface mount brackets, and was making my own, I thought it best to use spacers other than steel washers. Material that's softer, like Delrin, allows the serrated "teeth" on the end cap to bite into the Delrin, thus providing a firm grip without having to torque the heck out of the bolts and risk stripping them. Hard rubber washers would have been good too, but didn't have anything handy.
 
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trigger

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Further explanation of the previous post.

The Nilight LED bar comes with mounting brackets that have serrations to mate with those on the end caps. This allows the light bar to adjust and lock in place as far as declination is concerned. Since I didn't want to use their surface mount brackets, and was making my own, I thought it best to use spacers other than steel washers. Material that's softer, like Delrin, allows the serrated "teeth" on the end cap to bite into the Delrin, thus providing a firm grip without having to torque the heck out of the bolts and risk stripping them. Hard rubber washers would have been good too, but didn't have anything handy.

Those bolts on the side of the light bar working themselves loose has been an issue for yrs. Had mine bouncing around and hanging by a thread on the trail before. @jak9922 found himself in the same situation and came up with the threaded rod mod. I've done it on two roof mounted light bars now and it solves the problem. Not real pretty but it works. FWIW

Light BarVisor
 
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Bigred48

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No, I made the brackets, (if that info isn't in the thread you saw). It's steady and firm both vertically and laterally. I was concerned mostly about laterally.

I will say that Nilights threaded cast end cap holes are not all that inspiring, so it's important to use the minimal thickness spacers (I made mine of Delrin) to allow for as much thread engagement with the bolts as possible - the threaded holes are blind.
Thanks for the info! Your brackets look stabile. Any chance to buy some from you?
 
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bumperm

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Thanks for the info! Your brackets look stabile. Any chance to buy some from you?

Unfortunately no. They were s-l-o-w-l-y made by hand. However, there are similar brackets available on ebay etc. Example:

Light bar bracket

Mine have a wider base and attach using 1/4-20 rivet nuts through only one side of the roll bar gusset. The eBay ones have narrower hole spacing and are mounted by drilling through both sides of the roll bar reinforcement, then using longer bolts to go all the way through. I've no experience with them, but they should be fine . . . and certainly a lot less work than I went to!
 
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Bigred48

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Unfortunately no. They were s-l-o-w-l-y made by hand. However, there are similar brackets available on ebay etc. Example:

Light bar bracket

Mine have a wider base and attach using 1/4-20 rivet nuts through only one side of the roll bar gusset. The eBay ones have narrower hole spacing and are mounted by drilling through both sides of the roll bar reinforcement, then using longer bolts to go all the way through. I've no experience with them, but they should be fine . . . and certainly a lot less work than I went to!
Thanks Again for the info!
 
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