Toyhauler Ramp Door Failure

Pilotadam

Pilotadam

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Just thought I would share a experience I have had with my 2008 Keystone Fuzion Toyhauler. 2 years ago I found the hinges on the Rear ramp door to have cut through the Fiberglass outer skin. Upon further investigation I found the rear ramp to be "soft" all long the Hinge area at the bottom of the door. Then when loading my SxS I notice the door flexing. At this point I started to investigate why, come to find out the Ramp is made up of plywood and foam. No metal at all! I went to my local RV repair shop and inquired about a repair or replacement method. They informed my they only thing that can be done at this point was replace the door. They called Keystone and was told a new Ramp Door would be $4,200 plus shipping. I thought no way I was spending that kind of money. I would rather make my own door.

So I removed the door and designed my own replacement out of steel box tubing along with plywood and insulation foam. When I disassembled the orignal door I found that they did not provied a way for water to drain out of the door if any enter it. And at the top of the camper they had install screws through the aluminum channel that allowed water to enter the door over the 10 year the camper has been outside. On the door I made I allowed a 1/2" air gap between the Aluminum channel and the plywood decking. Plus I drilled some drain hole to allow any water to get in to drain out. But the biggest change I added was a Aluminum rain deflector along the top of the door to prevent water from actual draining on to the top seal. I would recommend anyone who has a toyhauler to add some kind of rain deflector to prevent the water from getting to the top of the door when in the closed position.

Please review the picture I have added and let me know if you have any questions. After my door rotted I found many forums online were others have had similar problems.

Just thought I would try to save someone else from going thought all this work and expense. I ended up spending about $1,000 in material to make a new door including the fiberglass skin so it would match the rest of the camper.

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Smitty335

Smitty335

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Just thought I would share a experience I have had with my 2008 Keystone Fuzion Toyhauler. 2 years ago I found the hinges on the Rear ramp door to have cut through the Fiberglass outer skin. Upon further investigation I found the rear ramp to be "soft" all long the Hinge area at the bottom of the door. Then when loading my SxS I notice the door flexing. At this point I started to investigate why, come to find out the Ramp is made up of plywood and foam. No metal at all! I went to my local RV repair shop and inquired about a repair or replacement method. They informed my they only thing that can be done at this point was replace the door. They called Keystone and was told a new Ramp Door would be $4,200 plus shipping. I thought no way I was spending that kind of money. I would rather make my own door.

So I removed the door and designed my own replacement out of steel box tubing along with plywood and insulation foam. When I disassembled the orignal door I found that they did not provied a way for water to drain out of the door if any enter it. And at the top of the camper they had install screws through the aluminum channel that allowed water to enter the door over the 10 year the camper has been outside. On the door I made I allowed a 1/2" air gap between the Aluminum channel and the plywood decking. Plus I drilled some drain hole to allow any water to get in to drain out. But the biggest change I added was a Aluminum rain deflector along the top of the door to prevent water from actual draining on to the top seal. I would recommend anyone who has a toyhauler to add some kind of rain deflector to prevent the water from getting to the top of the door when in the closed position.

Please review the picture I have added and let me know if you have any questions. After my door rotted I found many forums online were others have had similar problems.

Just thought I would try to save someone else from going thought all this work and expense. I ended up spending about $1,000 in material to make a new door including the fiberglass skin so it would match the rest of the camper.

View attachment 178953 View attachment 178954 View attachment 178955 View attachment 178956
Great post!
 
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Pilotadam

Pilotadam

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Thanks, I just hope I can help someone not go through the fun I had.... I had to find a place to store my toyhauler inside for about 2 weeks while I made the new door.
 
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J

JTW

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I’m guessing this is pretty much standard across most lines. Good information for folks!
 
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Pilotadam

Pilotadam

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From my understanding they are made by Lippert Industries. They seem to make alot of the component that RV mfg use.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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Remington

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From my understanding they are made by Lippert Industries. They seem to make alot of the component that RV mfg use.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Good job on that door!

yes, Lippert makes a lot of good RV stuff, but it looks like they missed the mark there. I’ll keep and eye on my Keystone Carbon read door for this.
 
HondaRed16

HondaRed16

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Thank you PilotAdam, great post.

I've also bent my ramp door on my Keystone toy hauler and I'm quite upset over it.
I was able to manipulate it back into original shape with no evidence, but I now sweat every time I drive on it.
I now block the the ramp door in the middle for the weight.
It's my understanding for those that have the door kit from the factory you can sit on...that door is made & stressed heavier.
I'm not a welder or fabricator like some of you very skilled folks so I may have to take it to a friend.
I haven't noticed any water issues but will now look.
I like the rain guard mod.
 
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Pilotadam

Pilotadam

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Pell City, Alabama
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Thank you PilotAdam, great post.

I've also bent my ramp door on my Keystone toy hauler and I'm quite upset over it.
I was able to manipulate it back into original shape with no evidence, but I now sweat every time I drive on it.
I now block the the ramp door in the middle for the weight.
It's my understanding for those that have the door kit from the factory you can sit on...that door is made & stressed heavier.
I'm not a welder or fabricator like some of you very skilled folks so I may have to take it to a friend.
I haven't noticed any water issues but will now look.
I like the rain guard mod.
Can I ask how you bent it? I stress everytime I load the SxS since I am close to the weight limit.

I would highly recommend the rain deflector. I found a 10ft length that I cut to go clear across the back and then siliconed it to prevent the water from running down. So much dryer now and I dont have to worry about that top seal as much.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
HondaRed16

HondaRed16

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Can I ask how you bent it? I stress everytime I load the SxS since I am close to the weight limit.

I would highly recommend the rain deflector. I found a 10ft length that I cut to go clear across the back and then siliconed it to prevent the water from running down. So much dryer now and I dont have to worry about that top seal as much.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Just driving up on it from street level; I had a couple of those Matt’s for the ground, a small table top grill and some chairs in the back of the buggy, apparently it was just enough extra weight that was too much for ramp.
 
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