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Dual Battery Install with TRUE Isolator

BVerhulst

BVerhulst

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I installed an auxiliary battery recently - the Odyssey 925. All went pretty well, with lots of help from this forum. Thanks all!
My wiring needs improvement, but it’s functional for now. As stated, a good ground is hard to find under the hood - everything is plastic. So I tied in to the main battery.
I had the Honda dealer install some stuff for me - winch and plow kit, street legal kit, fuse block relocation - and I regret that, for a few reasons. One, the $100 an hour (!!!) that they charge is not appropriate for their quality of work. Maybe $25/hr would be more acceptable for the oval-shaped holes they drilled (gotta get me some of those oval drill bits, very unique). Two, I expected something other than a bunch of power-leads stacked on the battery terminals... very unprofessional. So my next step is to clean up the wiring with some buss bars (on order).
Overall, easy project. For my understanding about the transmissions and insufficient electric power problems, an auxiliary battery system is a must-do. In some vehicles (e.g. Ford Econoline), low voltage will burn out very expensive parts (e.g. Fuel Injection Control Module, kill your rig dead in the water), but in the Pioneer it just inhibits shifting? An isolator is the way to go; yeah, you can just double up on battery bank and probably be good, until you’re not, and then you have TWO dead batteries. I spend most of my time mod’ing 4x4 Vans, and running an isolator for all the camper stuff (fridge, inverter, power ports, lights, heater, etc.) to the monstrous 4D aux-battery bank saves your starting batteries for proper engine performance... and starting when you’ve got yourself in the middle-of-nowhere!
 
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Rexter

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I’ve got a 2017 Honda Pioneer 700-2. This forum and kit is awesome. Definitely doing the dual battery. I have searched hi & lo for an aux battery box/mount/plate. If this kit came complete with this, that would be awesome. Guess I’ll build my own like everyone else, but most of us don’t have a fab shop, let alone the time. If anyone wants to make me one for under the seat, let me know!
 
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mjn

mjn

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If anyone has come up with a decent second battery hold-down system/strap/whatever... I'd like to know. That is the one part of this setup I don't like right now.
 
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swsebek

swsebek

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If anyone has come up with a decent second battery hold-down system/strap/whatever... I'd like to know. That is the one part of this setup I don't like right now.
Where you putting it
 
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Rexter

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Where you putting it
The most logical place I’ve seen is the open spot right next to the oem battery. Put the isolator where the tool kit goes. I could go for under the drivers seat or under the hood too. Really wouldn’t matter as long as it worked with the kit. If someone can make me one I’d be happy to pay for shipping and pay a fair price.
 
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trigger

trigger

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Building a tray is easy if you use this stuff. Buy a battery box for it and strap it in. This is under the seat in a P5. Mounted a bottle jack there too.

Battery tray Battery Battery and jack
 
mjn

mjn

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The most logical place I’ve seen is the open spot right next to the oem battery. Put the isolator where the tool kit goes. I could go for under the drivers seat or under the hood too. Really wouldn’t matter as long as it worked with the kit. If someone can make me one I’d be happy to pay for shipping and pay a fair price.
I have the LE, so there’s a storage box under my seat.
There is a perfect spot for the isolator between the batteries, and another spot on the left (passenger side) for the Stinger between the battery & fuse panel. You need to grind the stinger mount a little, bit then it goes right in.
 
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BKelly

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Thanks for posting this resource. I've learned a lot from the folks on this forum. I mounted mine under the hood on a 2018 700-4 deluxe.
The basic concept for the battery mount was based on @Rockriver which is described on this link.

P700 - 2017 2nd battery location

Its pretty tight under the 700 hood with the powersteering unit. I have a stinger and fuse block that I haven't installed yet and may not due to space limitations; for now will just be using second battery for winch. I am in the process of installing a new warn AXON which has the contactor inside the winch so I don't have to install a contactor under hood and take limited space there. Here is what it looks like so far (see below). Battery is very solid, can't budge it--especially with cam lock straps versus just battery straps. Its close to power steering but does not touch--its about 1/4 inch away.

IMG 1319 IMG 1420 IMG 4866 IMG 2896
 
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Rexter

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Thanks for posting this resource. I've learned a lot from the folks on this forum. I mounted mine under the hood on a 2018 700-4 deluxe.
The basic concept for the battery mount was based on @Rockriver which is described on this link.

P700 - 2017 2nd battery location

Its pretty tight under the 700 hood with the powersteering unit. I have a stinger and fuse block that I haven't installed yet and may not due to space limitations; for now will just be using second battery for winch. I am in the process of installing a new warn AXON which has the contactor inside the winch so I don't have to install a contactor under hood and take limited space there. Here is what it looks like so far (see below). Battery is very solid, can't budge it--especially with cam lock straps versus just battery straps. Its close to power steering but does not touch--its about 1/4 inch away.

View attachment 84967 View attachment 84968 View attachment 84969 View attachment 84970
Looks pretty close to what I think I'm going to do. I don't like the spot under the passenger's seat (too cramped). I don't like the spot under the driver's seat because of the exhaust pipe. Under the hood looks to be the best and safest. I'll probably still mount the isolator where the tool kit goes.
 
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Rexter

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Looks pretty close to what I think I'm going to do. I don't like the spot under the passenger's seat (too cramped). I don't like the spot under the driver's seat because of the exhaust pipe. Under the hood looks to be the best and safest. I'll probably still mount the isolator where the tool kit goes.
Pulled the trigger on building my own plate like a couple others have done to hold the second battery under the hood. I didn’t bolt the front like they did though. Just put slits in and used zip ties front/back. Also put 2 slits in the sides for a strap.

8E00DDA7 54C5 4128 8AB2 2E24354BB9FA 3A15B6B9 3FF3 4802 924E 23965D2C1A62 9EDA01AA 7E7C 4E3E 99AE EAD3788F280C
 
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Gunslingertom

Gunslingertom

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Someone help me here. I have my dual battery setup using his method and I read somewhere about using the second battery to jumpstart the first battery, if the need arose. And I believe you are supposed to use a jumper wire. But I cannot find that post. So do you basically jump from one pole to the other on the True Isolator, or from + on the auxiliary battery to + on the main battery? And does it even matter? Because it seems like you're doing the same thing either way.
 
J

JTW

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Someone help me here. I have my dual battery setup using his method and I read somewhere about using the second battery to jumpstart the first battery, if the need arose. And I believe you are supposed to use a jumper wire. But I cannot find that post. So do you basically jump from one pole to the other on the True Isolator, or from + on the auxiliary battery to + on the main battery? And does it even matter? Because it seems like you're doing the same thing either way.
Doesn’t matter.. i carry a small jumper box.. but you could just make a short set of cables and be done with iy
 
Montecresto

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Maybe $25/hr would be more acceptable for the oval-shaped holes they drilled (gotta get me some of those oval drill bits, very unique).
Those are called dull drill bits, if you look around, you’ve probably already got some. :D
 
1K5LE

1K5LE

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So I've watched the videos and read (most of) the posts on the dual battery set-up but still need some advice from those who have done it. My accessory list includes front LED cubes, rear LED cubes, stereo and winch for now. The winch will not be fused and all other accessories have factory installed in-line fuses. The only accessories I see myself adding would be interior lighting (low draw LED strips) and possibly under seat (bilge) fans if it get hot enough. I could easily add in-line fuses to those as well. With all that said...

I got to thinking (dangerous), do I really need a fuse box? I used a Blue Sea 6 fuse block on my custom golf cart but nothing had in-line fusing. I purchased the same Blue Sea block for my pioneer project but with the limited space I'm already pressed to find room for everything needed plus 4 relays for LED cubes. I came up with this diagram below that is similar to what everyone has done except it places the breaker before the stinger relay and runs all accessories directly off the stinger relay (ignition enabled) rather than a fuse box since I would have everything in-line protected. Thoughts???

I don't want to be responsible for anybody burning their machine up so...
***WARNING: DO NOT USE THIS AS A WIRING SCHEMATIC. NOT TESTED, NOT APPROVED & BEER POSSIBLY INVOLVED IN THE CREATION***


Pioneer Wiring
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Since you have fuses inline to everything, I don't guess you need a fuse box.

that chart is coming along nicely. Good job so far. BUT.....
Few things missing. We will just assume they're auto-included with a beer or 2.

True needs a small ground.
Second battery must be grounded
winch contactor control leads [2 wires]. and 1 positive wire to the switch for alternating control.
OEM 15a - Move this to another side of the relay. Its ok there, but its shorting in my head looking at it. hahaha.
I would run the ground wire bus back to the second battery. But a solid frame ground should do.
What else?

*Warning, I'm no wire professional myself. I'm sure there are other opinions or correct answers.
 
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