B
And I would not need the circuit breaker if I ran in line 40 amp fuse from the battery wire correct?
B
Once all this is installed and hooked to key on power using the Honda harness. The wires from the fuse box are then runs to rocker switch correct? From switch, wires would then run to accessory? If I am correct then do I need another in line fuse from switch to accessory as well as a ground somewhere?
B
Mudwing
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You could but not at the same time. When I’m winching I shut all accessories off. Except lights if it’s dark. I monitor the voltmeter. 😎
Mudwing
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You’re protecting the wire with the fuse. A 40 amp circuit breaker will work the same and allows you to reset it. But costs more money. You don’t need to run both. 😎
Mudwing
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Make sure you run the main winch power directly from the battery with 6 gauge wire. The trigger will come from the contactor which is essentially a relay.
Mudwing
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Lifetime Member
Mudwing
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Lifetime Member
Your accessory fuse will be on the fuse block. You don’t need any more. The fuse protects the wire. So no fire. 🤣
Mudwing
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Trying to figure how much battery power is needed to run a winch.
I have a superwinch 3000 which has a current draw rating of 15 Amps at zero load (line speed 27 feet per minute) up to 180 Amps for 3000 pounds pull (line speed 4 feet per minute). The winch comes with a solenoid (it’s a relay), and circuit breaker (appears to be 150 amp). It comes with 6 AWG wire leads.
My wire rating chart shows 6 AWG wire is rated for 55 to 75 Amps depending on the maximum temperature rating. 55 Amps continuous requires wire temperature rating of 60 degrees C.
The factory battery in my 2020 500 has a CCA 240 (cold cranking amps, which means it could deliver these amps for 30 seconds and drop voltage to no less than 7 volts).
I do not know how other winches compare, but this suggests you only have maybe 30 seconds plus for maximum pull of 3000 pounds before complete battery run-down (If the engine is not running). My solenoid is wired to the key-on Honda accessory harness.
The alternator on the 500 generates 40 Amps at 5000 RPM. Some people estimated that
there is only about 20 Amps at idle for accessory equipment, after allowing for some amps to be used for the engine equipment. My guess is the 700 has similar numbers.
The bottom line is that with any heavy winch pull, much of the current draw (amps) will be coming from the battery. A totally charged battery has 16 Amp Hours, which is 16 Amps for one hour. In reality, it is much less if you are drawing a high current above 16 Amps. The maximum “new battery” capacity is 1.6 Amps over a 10 hour period. That’s not much when we start thinking about winches and light bars.
Estimating a pull of 300 pounds, we would guess that would draw about 30 Amps at the winch with maybe 10 Amps coming from the battery. If you keep running the winch with this much pull force, you could have a discharged battery in 30 minutes or it could be much less due to a number of other factors.
Recharging the battery takes 5 to 10 hours, it cannot charge faster even if the engine is running at high rpm.
Hope this helps somebody! I would like know if anybody has been in this situation with a Honda sxs, running the battery down with a winch to the point where the engine could not start.
I have a 120 W light bar (estimated to be 10 Amps draw). Running the lights and winch at the same time could get the battery run down in perhaps half the time of the winch alone, to where it cannot start the engine.
The point of all this is to beware of the winch: you really need to consider a second battery to run the winch for any extended period in minutes, and consider some type of isolator is needed to keep the main battery from being run down.
I have a superwinch 3000 which has a current draw rating of 15 Amps at zero load (line speed 27 feet per minute) up to 180 Amps for 3000 pounds pull (line speed 4 feet per minute). The winch comes with a solenoid (it’s a relay), and circuit breaker (appears to be 150 amp). It comes with 6 AWG wire leads.
My wire rating chart shows 6 AWG wire is rated for 55 to 75 Amps depending on the maximum temperature rating. 55 Amps continuous requires wire temperature rating of 60 degrees C.
The factory battery in my 2020 500 has a CCA 240 (cold cranking amps, which means it could deliver these amps for 30 seconds and drop voltage to no less than 7 volts).
I do not know how other winches compare, but this suggests you only have maybe 30 seconds plus for maximum pull of 3000 pounds before complete battery run-down (If the engine is not running). My solenoid is wired to the key-on Honda accessory harness.
The alternator on the 500 generates 40 Amps at 5000 RPM. Some people estimated that
there is only about 20 Amps at idle for accessory equipment, after allowing for some amps to be used for the engine equipment. My guess is the 700 has similar numbers.
The bottom line is that with any heavy winch pull, much of the current draw (amps) will be coming from the battery. A totally charged battery has 16 Amp Hours, which is 16 Amps for one hour. In reality, it is much less if you are drawing a high current above 16 Amps. The maximum “new battery” capacity is 1.6 Amps over a 10 hour period. That’s not much when we start thinking about winches and light bars.
Estimating a pull of 300 pounds, we would guess that would draw about 30 Amps at the winch with maybe 10 Amps coming from the battery. If you keep running the winch with this much pull force, you could have a discharged battery in 30 minutes or it could be much less due to a number of other factors.
Recharging the battery takes 5 to 10 hours, it cannot charge faster even if the engine is running at high rpm.
Hope this helps somebody! I would like know if anybody has been in this situation with a Honda sxs, running the battery down with a winch to the point where the engine could not start.
I have a 120 W light bar (estimated to be 10 Amps draw). Running the lights and winch at the same time could get the battery run down in perhaps half the time of the winch alone, to where it cannot start the engine.
The point of all this is to beware of the winch: you really need to consider a second battery to run the winch for any extended period in minutes, and consider some type of isolator is needed to keep the main battery from being run down.
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