Mopower58
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Y
How does that plow do on an asphalt driveway? Never plowed before and don't want to mess it up...
Yakman - my post about my KFI plow is above and the Denali has the same type of skid puck system.
Perfectly flat asphalt is easy, but you should still use the pucks to float your blade. The plow company's can't set the float height because everyone's machine has a different mounting point/blade angle, and your surface to be plowed may be smooth or rough.
Once your plow is mounted drive to a flat spot and lower the blade to the ground. The skid pucks on the sides have rubber bushings and stacks of washers above and below the puck.
You can either eyeball it or measure. Lift the blade, pull the top cotter pins, remove the pucks and then stack more washers above or below the bottom mount bracket. What you're initially looking for is that the pucks gently support the blade on the ground and there is a rubber bushing below the mounting bracket.
On smooth, flat asphalt, this is all you need. If you have ripples or a rough surface, you may want more washers below the mount to help the pucks float the blade without grinding the wear bar and ripping up asphalt.
This is something that takes some trial and error to see what works best for you.
I have a gravel road base driveway at my cabin. If everything's frozen, there's no problem. If things are soft and mushy, my pucks sink and the plow can peel up snow and a skeen of red rock road base that colors the snow. I pay for the road base and I'd rather not plow it off the driveway. I either move more washers below or feather the blade with the winch. Trial and error.
Best.
Robobrainiac
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If you use a poly scraper on the blade edge that will help to ensure no damage
Y
Y
Robobrainiac
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You can also use a conveyer belt. I have heard good things about that.
GROR
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It’s hard to tell looking at photos but does the Denali Pro Series bracket hang down underneath the machine? It looks like you lose a little ground clearance.
Hondasxs
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Unfortunately yes. As many do.
Review post #1 for pictures.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Robobrainiac
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You do lose clearance. I try to remove mine during non-winter months. It is not the mounts fault but my frame nuts are junk. I had to drill and tap my right side bumper frame nut already. When I installed my winch plate Honda had cross threaded the bumper bolt.
Not exactly the same, but similar principle, the skids below use 3/4" UHMW-PE as a wear surface on my tractor front mount snow blower to prevent marking pavement. Show are fixed and don't pivot, I've since modified them so the leading edge can pivot up and down. , but mounting them on a vertical shaft takes care of that (I did that for a neighbor's snow plow).
I may change these to a single vertical rod-in-tube mount with height adjustment set with locknut at bottom bearing surface. The rod needs to be welded forward of skid center so the skid can pivot. As shown, the skid has a tendency to want to fight the tractor's steering in turns if the blower is in float or the blower isn't lifted.
Yeah, it's rare I don't build something and after figure out a better way to do it . . . I'm cursed that way!
I may change these to a single vertical rod-in-tube mount with height adjustment set with locknut at bottom bearing surface. The rod needs to be welded forward of skid center so the skid can pivot. As shown, the skid has a tendency to want to fight the tractor's steering in turns if the blower is in float or the blower isn't lifted.
Yeah, it's rare I don't build something and after figure out a better way to do it . . . I'm cursed that way!
Yeah you do.
Yes you will want to remove it in the spring. It’s not that bad, 6 bolts, just keep the threads clear and use a bit of never seize.
if you don’t… let’s just say you’re in for a surprise when you hook a log or rock with the ears that hang down.
