I bought a used P1K5. It was in good overall condition and had a Level 4 Audioformz roof that has a Rockford Fosgate PMX-2 head unit, 4 speakers, 2 amps and a 12" Rockford Fosgate subwoofer.
I am not an audio guy, but know just enough to be dangerous. Anyway, the sub was obviously not working in the sense that no sound was being passed to it (as in zero - no cracking, no static, no movement - as if it were disconnected), but everything else appeared to work fine - both amps, all 4 speakers, head unit. I checked the HU settings and it had the subwoofer connected to it properly, the volume on the sub was set properly in the HU. One amp powers all 4 regular speakers and the other amp seems to be dedicated to the sub. I pulled the head unit, both amps and sub to check a few things (man, that sub is HEAVY!). The ohm reading on the sub was fine at about 3.8 from my multimeter test. It appears to be connected properly as it's a dual coil, so it had one wire connecting two posts on itself (one + and one -) and the other + and - going to the amp. I tested the continuity of the speaker wire from the amp to the sub and it was also fine (and a good quality Rockford Fosgate one). The amp gets power to it and I can see the proper lights on it as well as the voltage input numbers on it (which are just under 13v, so it's right where it should be). The sub's cable connects to the right channel + and the left channel -, which from my research, means that this is in bridged mode, which is what is desirable for a single sub:
The subwoofer is a Rockford Fosgate R2SD4 Dual 4 ohm with 250w RMS, 500w peak.
What I did find concerning - or at least hokey - is that whomever did the install used blade connectors to put fuses inline and then used electrical tape to secure them rather than use a replaceable inline fuse. While it seems to work since all the speakers work fine - just seemed like an odd way to save $20. For this problem, I don't think any of that matters, but I may try to clean it up later.
There doesn't seem to be any fuses for the subwoofer connections, other than what may be internal to the amp. Here's the amp that powers (or is supposed to) the sub:
Any thoughts on how I can test this? I did try connecting an old speaker to the same cables from the sub, but it didn't work either. I've reached out to Audioformz and they are helpful, but after doing some email troubleshooting, they are suggesting that I need to purchase a new amp.
Before I drop $250 on something that may or may not work, I figured I'd throw it out there to see if anyone else had any ideas for things to try or look at - or something I may have just missed.
I am not an audio guy, but know just enough to be dangerous. Anyway, the sub was obviously not working in the sense that no sound was being passed to it (as in zero - no cracking, no static, no movement - as if it were disconnected), but everything else appeared to work fine - both amps, all 4 speakers, head unit. I checked the HU settings and it had the subwoofer connected to it properly, the volume on the sub was set properly in the HU. One amp powers all 4 regular speakers and the other amp seems to be dedicated to the sub. I pulled the head unit, both amps and sub to check a few things (man, that sub is HEAVY!). The ohm reading on the sub was fine at about 3.8 from my multimeter test. It appears to be connected properly as it's a dual coil, so it had one wire connecting two posts on itself (one + and one -) and the other + and - going to the amp. I tested the continuity of the speaker wire from the amp to the sub and it was also fine (and a good quality Rockford Fosgate one). The amp gets power to it and I can see the proper lights on it as well as the voltage input numbers on it (which are just under 13v, so it's right where it should be). The sub's cable connects to the right channel + and the left channel -, which from my research, means that this is in bridged mode, which is what is desirable for a single sub:
The subwoofer is a Rockford Fosgate R2SD4 Dual 4 ohm with 250w RMS, 500w peak.
What I did find concerning - or at least hokey - is that whomever did the install used blade connectors to put fuses inline and then used electrical tape to secure them rather than use a replaceable inline fuse. While it seems to work since all the speakers work fine - just seemed like an odd way to save $20. For this problem, I don't think any of that matters, but I may try to clean it up later.
There doesn't seem to be any fuses for the subwoofer connections, other than what may be internal to the amp. Here's the amp that powers (or is supposed to) the sub:
Any thoughts on how I can test this? I did try connecting an old speaker to the same cables from the sub, but it didn't work either. I've reached out to Audioformz and they are helpful, but after doing some email troubleshooting, they are suggesting that I need to purchase a new amp.
Before I drop $250 on something that may or may not work, I figured I'd throw it out there to see if anyone else had any ideas for things to try or look at - or something I may have just missed.
