P1000 Dual volt meter. Switched ground?

[Fdxjettech]

I’m trying to install a dual volt meter for my dual battery system. The instructions call for finding a switched ground. That’s a new one on me. I under stand the concept but have no idea where to find on on this machine. TIA

 

[bumperm]

Your machine (obviously) comes with switched positive, this is what you'll use to get a switched ground.

A good switched positive is available from fuse #5 in the accessory fuse block. I ran a wire through the existing harness cover up into the box, then spliced into the wire under fuse #5. This positive is then wired to one of the coil terminals of a relay. The other coil terminal, along with one of the relay contact terminals, is wired to ground. Now, when the ignition switch is turned on, the relay will be energized and the switched ground will be available from the other (normally open) relay contact.

 

[Hondasxs]

You will need to create one with a common automotive relay.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Fdxjettech]

Your machine (obviously) comes with switched positive, this is what you'll use to get a switched ground.

A good switched positive is available from fuse #5 in the accessory fuse block. I ran a wire through the existing harness cover up into the box, then spliced into the wire under fuse #5. This positive is then wired to one of the coil terminals of a relay. The other coil terminal, along with one of the relay contact terminals, is wired to ground. Now, when the ignition switch is turned on, the relay will be energized and the switched ground will be available from the other (normally open) relay contact.

Thanks. I was going to use that to power my relay for my 10 terminal hot buss that I’m installing now. I bought some posi taps to do
It with.

 

[Fdxjettech]

You will need to create one with a common automotive relay.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I have a 120 amp like that ( with out #87a). I was going to use it for key on power to my hot buss. Is this the same as the Stinger relay I keep reading about? And if I use that like that, will that create the switched ground I’m looking for?

 

[Fdxjettech]

One more question. The dc AWG average chart said I need 4 gauge to pull 100 amps. That is what my max load is for my hot buss panel is. Seems heavy to me, especially for what will be a six inch run. What gage do y’all use to power yours.

 

[Hondasxs]

What chat you looking at?
And is it bassed on critical drop loss or automotive drops?
Big difference in wire requirements.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Fdxjettech]

What chat you looking at?
And is it bassed on critical drop loss or automotive drops?
Big difference in wire requirements.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

It says both. 10% and 3% ( critical)

 

[Hondasxs]

I highly doubt you are installing 100a worth of accessories.
Anything using over 15a should have its own relay.

Here is a good calculator.
Change drop % to 5.

Wire Size Calculator

www.wirebarn.com

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Hondasxs]

As for the negative trigger. U just need a small automotive relay. Nothing big.

But if you are installing a stinger. You can hook one post up after it. And the other to key-on and you can eliminate this need.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Fdxjettech]

I highly doubt you are installing 100a worth of accessories.
Anything using over 15a should have its own relay.

Here is a good calculator.
Change drop % to 5.

Wire Size Calculator

www.wirebarn.com

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Fdxjettech]

You are correct. I’m not. But being weak in electronics, I don’t want to under build something and cause a fire. So according to that chart you sent 8 gauge should suffice? It’s just running from the battery to the relay to the buss.

 

[bumperm]

You are correct. I’m not. But being weak in electronics, I don’t want to under build something and cause a fire. So according to that chart you sent 8 gauge should suffice? It’s just running from the battery to the relay to the buss.

Correct, though I used 4 gauge as I had it handy. I have a question about the terminology when you say from the battery to the relay to the buss. A buss is often used so one doesn't end up with more than a couple of terminals to the battery post. I.e., one heavy wire from batt positive to the buss (which is like a solid copper strip with maybe 5/16" screw terminals. I did not use a buss, though some here do, nor does the "stinger" (or other similar relay) need to drive a buss like this. I think it's more practical to go from that relay (I'm using a 75 amp Bosch, rather than a "stinger" relay, for this as I had several in stock) to a "fuse block" like this one, ( I'm not using this fuse block as I prefer one without LED indicators):

fuse block

The fuse block provides individual fused positive distribution terminals for accessories as well as individual ground terminals. It's rated for pretty much any accessory you might want, excluding the winch which is normally wired directly to the contactor or battery. While strictly speaking, a buss may have a single large fuse or circuit breaker protecting it, but then most things connected to that buss should have individual fuses rated to protect each circuit.

Buss

 

[Fdxjettech]

Correct, though I used 4 gauge as I had it handy. I have a question about the terminology when you say from the battery to the relay to the buss. A buss is often used so one doesn't end up with more than a couple of terminals to the battery post. I.e., one heavy wire from batt positive to the buss (which is like a solid copper strip with maybe 5/16" screw terminals. I did not use a buss, though some here do, nor does the "stinger" (or other similar relay) need to drive a buss like this. I think it's more practical to go from that relay (I'm using a 75 amp Bosch, rather than a "stinger" relay, for this as I had several in stock) to a "fuse block" like this one, ( I'm not using this fuse block as I prefer one without LED indicators):

fuse block

The fuse block provides individual fused positive distribution terminals for accessories as well as individual ground terminals. It's rated for pretty much any accessory you might want, excluding the winch which is normally wired directly to the contactor or battery. While strictly speaking, a buss may have a single large fuse or circuit breaker protecting it, but then most things connected to that buss should have individual fuses rated to protect each circuit.

Buss

Your right on my terminology, it is incorrect for this application. On commercial aircraft we run power to busses and then send it out through the individual systems through circuit breakers. Im actually using a fused distribution block. Where I work we have the avionics dept. (tweaks) to do all that. I'm a wrench monkey. Thats why my electrical knowledge is so weak. I really thank you guys for the help here.

 

[bumperm]

No prob, you're welcome.

FYI, my background is Navy Electronics Tech (ET1) '63 to '70, (I'm a slow learner). Next I played cop in Oakland, CA for 10 years, (that slow learner thing again - shouldn't a taken 10 years to learn what I needed to know). With electronics and law enforcement background, founding an alarm company seemed a reasonable thing to do. That worked out pretty good. Son has run that show for almost 20 years since I retired to NV. Son was kind enough to leave me on company payroll (likely he would have fired my sorry butt awhile back, but I still own the place . Now and then he'll call the local Sheriff to see if they'll declare me incompetent, (like Biden, I use Q-cards to breeze through their questions).

 

[Fdxjettech]

No prob, you're welcome.

FYI, my background is Navy Electronics Tech (ET1) '63 to '70, (I'm a slow learner). Next I played cop in Oakland, CA for 10 years, (that slow learner thing again - shouldn't a taken 10 years to learn what I needed to know). With electronics and law enforcement background, founding an alarm company seemed a reasonable thing to do. That worked out pretty good. Son has run that show for almost 20 years since I retired to NV. Son was kind enough to leave me on company payroll (likely he would have fired my sorry butt awhile back, but I still own the place . Now and then he'll call the local Sheriff to see if they'll declare me incompetent, (like Biden, I use Q-cards to breeze through their questions).

A life well lived sir. Congratulations. And could I get a set of those Q-cards? 😉

 

[Fdxjettech]

One more question please. What gauge wire should I use for tapping the key on power. I can’t find any info on the amperage required to trip the solenoid. I would assume its minimal.

 

[bumperm]

One more question please. What gauge wire should I use for tapping the key on power. I can’t find any info on the amperage required to trip the solenoid. I would assume its minimal.

It's minimal, 22 Ga has more than adequate ampacity . . . but I'd use 18. I don't normally use anything smaller than that for vehicle wiring - as much for mechanical strength as anything else. However, for strain relief, the heat shrink insulated crimp on ring and Faston (spade) terminals are pretty impressive.

 

[PatioDaddyo58]

I’m trying to install a dual volt meter for my dual battery system. The instructions call for finding a switched ground. That’s a new one on me. I under stand the concept but have no idea where to find on on this machine. TIA

I used a small momentary switch on mine so the display would not stay on continuously. When I want to check my voltages, I just push the button.

 

[Scoop]

I used a small momentary switch on mine so the display would not stay on continuously. When I want to check my voltages, I just push the button.

I want to be able to glance at my dual voltmeter at any time during operation and know the charging state of the batteries. Hence, an inexpensive relay that provides a switched negative ground (it only grounds when the relay is energized aka when the key is on) is the way to go. The TrueAM UTV-SBI-CM isolator kit includes such a relay (that kit comes with a dual voltmeter).